P1000 2017 Radiator Air Deflector

[wattdon]

I have an extra one of these Air Guide plates (#19071-HL4-F00) and I cut out a thicker rubber replacement (for #19072-HL4-F00, Rubber Air Guide) using the OEM as a template. I was able to bolt the rubber mat to the plastic air plate and manipulate into place over the (3) existing holes in the frame and get a push pin into the hole on the driver side first. These (3) push pins took some work but I was able to get all installed without removing front end plastic. As much valuable info as other members of this forum have provided to help me with my 2016 P1000-5 -- I would like to send these parts, including fasteners, to someone who can use them. I'll check for messages as I can.

 

[Admin]

 

[wbyman22]

I paid $18.95 including shipping on PartsFish.com for the deflector, rubber piece, and push pins. Used rivets and washers to connect rubber to deflector and looks real nice.

 

[djracer]

I bought all these parts for my late 2016 i paid about 25 but I got every piece from my local dealer. I was lucky in that my crossmember was predrilled. I was able to get the right pin in after I dropped several to never be seen again. I got the left one in next but the center pin looked impossible. After several attemps I noticed the coolant jug and checked to see how it mounted. It actually slides down on a metal bracket. I was able to slide the jug up and lower it down to gain access to the middle hole. This was an awesome discovery! If I had one that was not drilled I would use quality zip tie to hold the piece in place! I hope this helps some of you guys.

 

[Smitty335]

I bought all these parts for my late 2016 i paid about 25 but I got every piece from my local dealer. I was lucky in that my crossmember was predrilled. I was able to get the right pin in after I dropped several to never be seen again. I got the left one in next but the center pin looked impossible. After several attemps I noticed the coolant jug and checked to see how it mounted. It actually slides down on a metal bracket. I was able to slide the jug up and lower it down to gain access to the middle hole. This was an awesome discovery! If I had one that was not drilled I would use quality zip tie to hold the piece in place! I hope this helps some of you guys.

I just took the front tires off and used a pair of 12 inch long needle nose pliers?

 

[RedFred1]

Since I was in there doing my winch install, figured I would do this too... snowball effect.

No holes in my cross member, but the routing method for the winch wires in the factory instructions goes right across this cross member.

So I gotta drill holes then figure out where the wires will go after that.

Also I notice there is a large tab sticking out the top on the left side of the air deflector that is certain to impact the plastic front hood assy. Did anyone have a problem with it? This is a 2016 P1000 3pax.

I may just toss this thing and make one out of 3/8" rubber cut to fit and mount it along with the winch wires using zip ties.

FredD

 

[Smitty335]

View attachment 84448 View attachment 84447 Since I was in there doing my winch install, figured I would do this too... snowball effect.

No holes in my cross member, but the routing method for the winch wires in the factory instructions goes right across this cross member.

So I gotta drill holes then figure out where the wires will go after that.

Also I notice there is a large tab sticking out the top on the left side of the air deflector that is certain to impact the plastic front hood assy. Did anyone have a problem with it? This is a 2016 P1000 3pax.

I may just toss this thing and make one out of 3/8" rubber cut to fit and mount it along with the winch wires using zip ties.

FredD

Mine's a late P1-5 and it had the holes already, boy was I happy!

 

[RedFred1]

I ended up drilling three holes... I used two pins and used the center hole for my wire tie to hold the winch wires. I also had to relieve the plastic deflector where it was touching the air intake tube. Quick fix but if it rubbed for a while, it could damge the tube... still worried about that tab.

 

[Smitty335]

View attachment 84451 I ended up drilling three holes... I used two pins and used the center hole for my wire tie to hold the winch wires. I also had to relieve the plastic deflector where it was touching the air intake tube. Quick fix but if it rubbed for a while, it could damge the tube... still worried about that tab.

That will work, looks good!

 

[ToddACimer]

View attachment 84451 I ended up drilling three holes... I used two pins and used the center hole for my wire tie to hold the winch wires. I also had to relieve the plastic deflector where it was touching the air intake tube. Quick fix but if it rubbed for a while, it could damge the tube... still worried about that tab.

My tab doesn't touch the body work or intake tube. What did you use as a reference point for left to right position?

 

[Smitty335]

My tab doesn't touch the body work or intake tube. What did you use as a reference point for left to right position?

I had to mess around with the wiring harness a little, but the holes were already there, did you get directions, with the kit you get a code to go on line with to Hondas site, that you can print out the directions.

 

[ToddACimer]

I had to mess around with the wiring harness a little, but the holes were already there, did you get directions, with the kit you get a code to go on line with to Hondas site, that you can print out the directions.

I installed mine a year ago, I think I was the first one to do it. I was asking the guy above how he mounted his since it doesn't fit was well. Honda did not include directions for retrofit of machines without the frame holes

 

[Smitty335]

I installed mine a year ago, I think I was the first one to do it. I was asking the guy above how he mounted his since it doesn't fit was well. Honda did not include directions for retrofit of machines without the frame holes

They send a code in the box with all accessories to go on line at the Honda accessory site to down load or look at

 

[RedFred1]

Nope... Mine is a 2016. These didn't come out until 2017. There is no update kit, only replacement parts. Also, mine is an early 2016 so no pre-drilled holes. No worries though, I think I got it on there pretty well. Once the paint dries around the holes I drilled out, I will remount it and put the hood back on.

Thanks,

FredD

 

[RedFred1]

My tab doesn't touch the body work or intake tube. What did you use as a reference point for left to right position?

Thanks... I just centered it on the bar. I did not want to go behind the overflow bottle with the right side push pin. I just ground about a 1/2" from the lower left side in a sorta semi-circle so it had plenty of clearance.

FredD

 

[Bobby_BAS]

I installed the air deflector on my 2016 a few weeks ago. Fortunately my 16 already had the holes pre-drilled. After a couple of rides with it now installed, I highly recommend it. It was a pain in the butt to install but it helps, a lot!

 

[ob1jeeper]

Old thread, but happy to have found this thread... I had been contemplating making some sort of radiator shroud extension/deflector of my own, when I stumbled on this thread. Found the "OEM" parts on "PartsZilla" for less than $25 shipped, so ordered the deflector, rubber flap shield, and all "OEM" clips/fasteners.

With no instructions included in the shipped parts, this site is where I turned to for thoughts on how to install without taking the front tupperware off, and happily found this thread.

Started by removing the driver side front shock & tire, then slid the coolant recovery bottle up and out of the clip and temporarily zip-tied it to the front bumper.

.


AND, then discovered no holes in the c/mbr of my early 2016, so rather than trying to squeeze into the miniumal space with my angle drill and drill the "called for" holes, I instead drilled an additional three holes in the shield that align with the original holes, but directly below them, at where the lower edge of the c/mbr would be. I then used two zip-ties per hole to secure it in place.

IMHO, it's as solidly mounted as it would have been, if the holes in the c/mbr and the OEM clips had been used. Total job start to finish was less than an hour, including putting tools away.

And the best is that even with our 100(+) degrees here, it's significantly reduced the temp of the air coming through the instrument panel...