Thanks Paul. I had the same setup with the System 3. Wish they had worked out, I did like everything else about them.
I don't really understand what the speedoDRD is, but I'll look it up.
Thanks!
Dave
I don't really understand what the speedoDRD is, but I'll look it up.
Thanks!
Dave
The SpeedoDRD is a frequency manipulator that changes the pulses from the speed sensors so they are accurate when they reach the speedo/odo/PCM. You program the to whatever percentage you need (+12.4% in your case) so that the speedo/odo read accurately and the PCM knows what speed you are really traveling. They make a Honda specific one that is plug and play, you will need the "H3" version...
You can often find them cheaper on ebay or Amazon...
SpeedoDRD H3 Speedo Calibrator Plug-In Honda CB500F/X CBR500R 650F 2014-2021 | eBay
CBR500R Model Years: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019. Honda CBR500R (2013-2015). Honda CB500F (2013-2015). CB500F/X Model Years: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021. CBR650F Model Years: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018.
www.ebay.com
Thank you very much for that! I'll be getting one👍🏻😎The SpeedoDRD is a frequency manipulator that changes the pulses from the speed sensors so they are accurate when they reach the speedo/odo/PCM. You program the to whatever percentage you need (+12.4% in your case) so that the speedo/odo read accurately and the PCM knows what speed you are really traveling. They make a Honda specific one that is plug and play, you will need the "H3" version...
You can often find them cheaper on ebay or Amazon...
SpeedoDRD H3 Speedo Calibrator Plug-In Honda CB500F/X CBR500R 650F 2014-2021 | eBay
CBR500R Model Years: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019. Honda CBR500R (2013-2015). Honda CB500F (2013-2015). CB500F/X Model Years: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021. CBR650F Model Years: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018.www.ebay.com
If you want to correct the Speedo only then you need 1. If you want to correct the Speedo AND the the signals going to the DCT, you will need 3 of them.
Note: the 2 used by the DCT must be programmed exactly the same or the DCT will freak out.
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
I have a SpeedoDRD on my WR250R because the speedo pickup is in the transmission, any gearing changes screw that up (idiot engineers, most dirt riders change gearing or tire size (most dirt oriented bikes have the speedo pickup on the front tire which is usually kept about the same as stock)). The DRD is nearly infinitely adjustable for any tire size and I sync it to my GPS.
SpeedBuggy
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
I like the ground clearance and ride improvement from the 32’s @ 14psi. Everything else acceleration, braking, handling and shift points is a negative.
The DCT uses a multitude of parameters to determine shift points. There are 191 tables and thousands of data points that control the DCT shifting. They rely on RPM, Estimated Torque, Throttle Position, Output Shaft Speed, Barometric Pressure, Air Temp, Engine Temp, Clutch Oil Pressure, and Line Oil Pressure to calculate the appropriate shift points.
Somewhere in the maps/tables the output shaft speed vs RPM vs MPH relationship gets skewed and throws the desired shifts points off. I haven't dug into it to see why. I have 30's and it is noticeable but tolerable. I did rework my Estimated Torque Table and it helped a little but there is more improvement to be had. 32's throw off the calculation by about 14% and that seems to mess thing up even more to the point where people are complaining..
The "proper" way to fix it is to redo the maps. I believe that is what Jackson Racing did with the tire size options in the Turbo reflash. DynoJet also has a DCT tune that makes the shift points better but their website does not mention if it is for 28, 30 or 32 inch tires or if there are multiple tunes included to address different tire sizes. They have yet to answer a couple questions I asked them a couple weeks ago.
The "cheater" way is to try trick the DCT and fiddle with the OSS speed sent to the PCM. You tell the PCM the shafts are turning faster than they really are and it should shifter earlier. Will it work and how much difference will adding the SpeedoDRD units onto the front and reat OSS sensors make? That is an unknown and I do not believe anyone has tried it yet. It is a $150 "test" that someone needs to try. You have to do both of them or the PCM will throw a fit and go into limp mode. I am confident it will change the shift point but not sure if it will be sufficient.
You can add or subtract as much sensor speed as you like with the SpeedoDRD units (-50% to +100% I believe). Someone could fiddle with it and try 1 or 2% increments and see what happens. I would try but I just don't have the time right now.
Yes, the H3 harness has Honda specific plugs on it. Just unplug the sensor, plug the H3 into the sensor and plug the stock harness into the H3. The hardest part is getting to the plug
FYI, there are 5 sensors on the Talon (and Pioneer with i4WD). 3 of them are identical and use the H3.
The other 2 are on the front and are only used by the i4WD system and they are not the same and you do not need to mess with them. The H3 will not fit them so you can't mess it up.
If you need diagrams, just let me know and I will post them.
advertisement
Yes, please post those. I am confused about where it plugs in. I ordered mine and it's on the way. I really appreciate you explaining this and taking the time to post. Really good info!Yes, the H3 harness has Honda specific plugs on it. Just unplug the sensor, plug the H3 into the sensor and plug the stock harness into the H3. The hardest part is getting to the plug
FYI, there are 5 sensors on the Talon (and Pioneer with i4WD). 3 of them are identical and use the H3.
The other 2 are on the front and are only used by the i4WD system and they are not the same and you do not need to mess with them. The H3 will not fit them so you can't mess it up.
If you need diagrams, just let me know and I will post them.
I forgot, there are actually 6 sensors. 4 on the front Diff , 1 on the rear Diff and 1 on the Sub-Trans. Honda's naming schema is VERY confusing. The VS Sensors appear to called the same thing but if you read carefully, they are all different.
Here is a spreadsheet that I prepared for Brooks at 12 oClockLabs to help him out. The 3 sensors you will be dealing with are listed first, the other 3 are for reference only. I will not provide any Pioneer diagrams as I do not have any...
[TD valign="top"][/TD]
[TD valign="top"] Honda Part Number [/TD]
[TD valign="top"] SpeedoDRD [/TD]
[TD valign="top"] Name (per Honda Service Manual) [/TD]
[TD valign="top"] Location (Part capitalized for identification) [/TD]
[TD valign="top"] Feeds and provides [/TD]
[TD valign="top"]1[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]37700-KZR-601[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]H3[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]VS Sensor[/TD]
[TD valign="top"] Talon – FINAL DRIVE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY on the Back of FRONT DIFF.
Pioneer – Top/rear of the REAR DIFF where the Ring Gear is.
Note: that the location of this sensor is completely different between the Talon (Front) and the Pioneer (Rear).[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Feeds the PCU, EPS and Console. Supplies VSS for PCU, Speedo/ODO and EPS. To correct the Speedo, this one will need a SpeedoDRD
I think for tire sizes up to 30”, this will be sufficient as the next 2 have to do with shifting and 30” tires will not affect shifting that much[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]2[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]37700-KZR-601[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]H3[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Front VS Sensor[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Top of FRONT DIFF, right in the middle above the ring gear.[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Feeds the PCU only for DCT shifting. If using larger tires or adding IGR, it will be necessary to correct this one to get good DCT shifting.[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]3[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]37700-KZR-601[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]H3[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Rear VS Sensor[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Top/Front of the SUB-TRANSMISSION near the front output shaft.[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Feeds the PCU only for DCT shifting. If using larger tires or adding IGR, it will be necessary to correct this one to get good DCT shifting.[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]4[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Talon - 38510-HL6-A01
Pioneer - 38520-HL4-F41[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]N/A[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Front Right Wheel Speed Sensor[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]FRONT DIFF where the Right axle goes in.[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Feeds ABS and i4WD only. Should not need to adjust/correct this one.
Note: Only on Pioneer with i4WD[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]5[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Talon - 38510-HL6-A01
Pioneer - 38520-HL4-F41[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]N/A[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Front Left Wheel Speed Sensor[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]FRONT DIFF where the Left axle goes in.[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Feeds ABS and i4WD only. Should not need to adjust/correct this one.
Note: Only on Pioneer with i4WD[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]6[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Talon - 38510-HL6-A01
Pioneer - 38510-HL4-F41[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]N/A[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Rear Wheel Speed Sensor[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Talon - Top of REAR DIFF, right in the middle above the ring gear.
Pioneer – Left rear of the REAR DIFF where the axle goes in.[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]Feeds ABS and i4WD only. Should not need to adjust/correct this one.
Note: Only on Pioneer with i4WD[/TD]
Let's start with the front Diff, you will be installing a SpeedoDRD on 2 of the 4 front sensors. The VS Sensor (effects the speedo) is on the back of the Diff on the 4WD Clutch. The Front VS Sensor (effects DCT programming) is on the very top of the Diff. This one has a sub-harness so there are 2 connection points. I am not certain if the plug on the sub-harness is the same so you will probably need to plug the SpeedoDRD directly to the sensor.
Don't worry, the unit will not fit the wrong sensors. This pic from the right side of the diff shows 3 of the sensors, the fourth one on the left is of no concern so I will not show it. There is a plastic shield over the VS Sensor plug, you may need to remove it to get access to the plug...
The Rear VS Sensor (effects DCT programming) is located on top of the Sub-Trans. It is easy to spot...
Hope this helps!
Yes. By default they do nothing when installed so you can actually install all 3, leave 2 of them alone and fine tune the speedo one (VS Sensor on the back of the front diff) first. Then program the other 2 exactly the same so all 3 match.
The other 2 MUST match or you will get lights and sirens
Wow! That helps a bunch! Great information. So if I just want to correct speedo / trip meter I can do one SpeedoDRD? (Sorry if that is a stupid question, I will need to absorb this more)
Yes. You just need one for the sensor on the back of the front diff.
I have the super grip K-9 they have a 32x10-15 and I like them. They are not as good on rocks as I would like but everything else is real good. The soft tires do better on rocks and these are not real soft but that means they won't wear out as easy
www.supergripatv.com
www.supergripatv.com
Ride report for 31 TSLs: After playing with air pressure, I finally have left it on around 12lbs. 1-10 scale. Hill climbing a good 9. Mud a good 8 but don’t do much. Trail riding maybe a 7. All in all I would buy again today!!! For 600$. 31” tire that will last a long long time, don’t know how you could go wrong. IMO
advertisement
Similar threads
