P700 700-4 Hard cold weather starting

tjoreo

tjoreo

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Hi thanks, thats interesting reason but I understand now why the battery could be of issue. I have a booster box I can bring out and clamp onto the existing battery as a test to try. So you fit a larger battery in the stock location under the seat? I do not know what the current cranking amps of the stock one is, how much larger is this?
I looked up the stock battery and it is only 240 cold cranking amps. The GYZ16H is still only the 240 cca but the one I put in is the same size as the 16 but just a little taller. I figured if I was going to go to the trouble, I wanted the most CCA I could get that would fit in the stock location. There is a piece of plastic in the stock battery box that needs to trimmed to make it fit width wise. The secondary car battery is probably a better and easier way to go, but I had a storage compartment that I put under the seat where most people were adding it. Like I said, I don't know if it will cure the problem but it solved mine.
 
Irish1

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Hi thanks, thats interesting reason but I understand now why the battery could be of issue. I have a booster box I can bring out and clamp onto the existing battery as a test to try. So you fit a larger battery in the stock location under the seat? I do not know what the current cranking amps of the stock one is, how much larger is this?
Make sure you have a lit display and can here fuel pump cycle before you turn key all the way. Overheard a service guy tell a customer to put a heater on the relays and as I mentioned above that was an issue I found on mine. Also there are threads that talk about voltage drop being enough not to allow electronics and or fuel pump to work adequately even though it turns over. New battery has helped some in my case. Fixing the relay helped too but there is something else yet to be determined causing it not to be dependable.
 
DG Rider

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Have you tried regular (87) gas?

Seems like the 700 has always been a stubborn starter in deep cold. There is a video out there somewhere where you crank it over a few times to load it up a bit, then give it another go with some throttle.

Something like this...

 
tjoreo

tjoreo

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Actually that was 410 cranking amps in the new battery. The 500cr amp was too big for the under the hood.
It still should be enough to get it going as it is about twice the size of the stocker. I asked about the isolator because I know the one I have on my 1000 now won't hook the batteries together until the rig starts charging. It actually had another switch with the kit that would allow me to bypass the isolator and combine both batteries together without jumper cables, but thankfully enough my 1000 hasn't had a problem starting in the cold. Your's sounds something more then just low battery charge then. I also tried what my 2015 manual recommended to do when it wouldn't start, by applying 1/2 throttle, but when it was super cold it didn't make any difference. Hope you can find the cure.
 
Irish1

Irish1

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Have you tried regular (87) gas?

Seems like the 700 has always been a stubborn starter in deep cold. There is a video out there somewhere where you crank it over a few times to load it up a bit, then give it another go with some throttle.

Something like this...

No I have always used premium to keep the ethanol out of the equation. I have found pressing the throttle or priming it too many times can flood the cold engine too so am always cautious with that. I slight touch on throttle if it is trying to go does sometimes helps.
 
DG Rider

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No I have always used premium to keep the ethanol out of the equation. I have found pressing the throttle or priming it too many times can flood the cold engine too so am always cautious with that. I slight touch on throttle if it is trying to go does sometimes helps.
Try regular and some iridium plugs.
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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Yes I did say thatvabove that Iridium plugs would be my next try. Then I am down to looking at valves I guess. Thanks for everyones input
I tried to get some iridium plugs today, but no go. The number the stock plugs cross over to don't come with terminal nuts. You can get them on Amazon, but my machine is going back together tonight, so I just got the stock plugs. That and one of the boxes of the iridium ones they brought looked like it had been tossed out the window of a moving car.
 
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Irish1

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I tried to get some iridium plugs today, but no go. The number the stock plugs cross over to don't come with terminal nuts. You can get them on Amazon, but my machine is going back together tonight, so I just got the stock plugs. That and one of the boxes if the iridium ones they brought looked like it had been tossed out the window of a moving car.
I have heard that before about them not coming with the terminal nut. Cheap!
 
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Bfried23

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So this happened to me the other day. it was -1 in my shed. The 700 would crank and pop and make some weird noises its never done before. I pulled the plugs and they were wet, cleaned them off with sand paper and it fired up.
 
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Glock21user

Glock21user

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I run stock plugs with regular gas nothing fancy.
Just keep all connections tight and clean and a battery tender in the cold.
Never had an issue.
I do change my plugs every year in the fall as well.
 
KevP700-4

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While researching valve setting, there were a number of comments about the P700 engine starting better in cold weather after checking the valve clearances. You might want to search yourself to see what you think and if it could work for you.

Rec gas and stabil here for our 700. Ours does crank slightly before starting in 0-20* weather.
 
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DG Rider

DG Rider

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While researching valve setting, there were a number of comments about the P700 engine starting better in cold weather after checking the valve clearances. You might want to search yourself to see what you think and if it could work for you.

Rec gas and stabil here for our 700. Ours does crank slightly before starting in 0-20* weather.
Considering most people never have them adjusted and seem to be looking for an excuse not to, that would explain why it's a fairly common issue.
 
Irish1

Irish1

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Or you should not have to look at valve adjustment on both of these 700 for instance that are brand new with the problem. Doesn't quack like a duck maybe not one.
 
KevP700-4

KevP700-4

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For sure. Agree that valve adjustment at 100 hrs on a new machine is a bit odd. Can’t believe Honda doesn’t favor hydrolic lifters. Sure, cost, weight, performance all play into it I just find it cheap on their part.
 
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DG Rider

DG Rider

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The 1st valve check/adjustment is at 20 hrs or 100 miles...as it is on all Honda ATVs and SxS's that im aware of. That's a "Honda thing", just like "real" transmissions. You can have much longer initial checks, but you'll have to buy one of those "rubber band" machines.
 
Glock21user

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The 1st valve check/adjustment is at 20 hrs or 100 miles...as it is on all Honda ATVs and SxS's that im aware of. That's a "Honda thing", just like "real" transmissions. You can have much longer initial checks, but you'll have to buy one of those "rubber band" machines.
I agree with @DG Rider on the 20 hrs or 100 miles as it is known to anyone familiar with a Honda.
One of two options exist the way I see it.
Do the required service at the proper intervals then enjoy or go buy something else and deal with different issues mostly more severe.
Why is this difficult for people to understand.
I have a friend that hates his 700 because he has added so much weight it is a big pig and he can't seem to understand homemade tube bumpers and winches, big tires and wheels on a ghetto lift, tools, hi lifter jacks, dual batteries (both truck batteries), steel top, 2 spares and more freaking lights than any 4 of us would need have really robbed from what he has.
He will never admit it has anything to do with him and he blames Honda for his own actions.
They are pretty simple machines that fall into a very attractive price range but there are trade offs.
Adjust the valves and ride.
 
Remington

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but you'll have to buy one of those "rubber band" machines.
And have…Chestnuts Roasting on an open fire!!!
DF379D90 B518 4B33 89AE 650B9F620DF9
 

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