P500 Adding Inferno Heater w/Defrost

Willi

Willi

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F911A1CD 790B 4067 B5A4 2DAFB1257E41 54FC0E61 5DC9 499C 9664 FD215BF998FF 12C3DA96 2331 4746 877A 03199B1426F1 ACED10A6 BC3F 4595 AC2D 7930987BD44A DB7BAF24 9456 43BE 810D 8BB71F7B2055 In the process of adding a heater. The grandkids love going for rides and I have soft sides and back coming. I’ve got the radiator lines tapped into and the defroster vents cut and installed just need to put in under dash vents and complete the wiring and switch.
I do have a question for you guys, there’s a block of wires to the left of the heater that was used for the winch. I think I still need this wiring harness (last pic) for the heater and future accessories. Correct?
Tnx 14397ABD D5E4 48A0 B0C5 5C49DD728001
 
MarlinWalker

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I used a wire tap splice on my 12v accessory socket circuit to power my heater fan. It's fused at 15 amps so it has plenty of power for that.

Wire tap splice1 Wire tap splice2
But if you plan on wiring up more things in the future an official wiring harness would be the better way to go.
 
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Willi

Willi

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That harness is well worth the small price. I often do overkill on splices, solder and shrink wrap for off road conditions. Like the heater set up!

Thanks, got all the heater hoses hooked up to the vents (two defrosters and two for cabin/feet). I found the red accessories end that was wrapped in black tape like Chooglin showed back on September 28. I’m just waiting on the harness and was wondering on connecting the wires to the harness’ pigtails. When I unwrap the pigtail, will it be just cut off wires and I should strip off an inch of coating, solder twisted and fluxed wires and then slide the pre loaded shrink wrap tube over the joint and heat er up? Or will it be the Plug looking things like the 3rd attached pic, “other accessories box at top”
Also in the second pic, there’s the switch and a loop of wire for the heater. The blue covered plugs in go to the switch, the black wire has a flat loop for grounding to frame with screw? The red wire has a flat tab with zig zag slice in it, that’s for power but how is it attached to what?
Thank you for your help!

1361ED51 6B34 4CB4 A0DA 0C1938B52879 1578489C BB16 4BEE B881 01FF2C69D2EF 9808967F 0679 4FA2 B4E8 DDD74BC093CF
 
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Deleted member 3748

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You're gonna strip the Honda pigtails back and find either one wire or two. The one wire is a +12V and the two wire is a +12V and a ground. You only need the one but I can't see your heater switch well enough to know for sure. You're basically going to be running from +12V at the Honda harness to the switch then to the +12V on the heater fan. You will need to ground the heater fan and probably the switch. The grounds can be made to the Pioneer frame but if you're new to this, I suggest you use one of the pigtails with two wires and ground both back to the ground wire of the pigtail. Do you have a 12V test light?

Side note: Yamaha provides 5 accessory plugs ready to go and the UPI heater switch plugs right into them. You don't have to do anything. :)
 
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Willi

Willi

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You're gonna strip the Honda pigtails back and find either one wire or two. The one wire is a +12V and the two wire is a +12V and a ground. You only need the one but I can't see your heater switch well enough to know for sure. You're basically going to be running from +12V at the Honda harness to the switch then to the +12V on the heater fan. You will need to ground the heater fan and probably the switch. The grounds can be made to the Pioneer frame but if you're new to this, I suggest you use one of the pigtails with two wires and ground both back to the ground wire of the pigtail. Do you have a 12V test light?

Side note: Yamaha provides 5 accessory plugs ready to go and the UPI heater switch plugs right into them. You don't have to do anything. :)


I will get a 12V test light (it’s used for finding a hot wire? Red not black as black is ground?) I also just went up to the barn and took better pics of the switch and wires. If you have time to share other info with me, I really would appreciate it!

21ED6499 7B26 4F3D B41A 97B391218A85 1CC558CD 6DC2 421D 971A 09CE13962C2C 6F64C8BB 763E 419B 8A7F 2C2219ADEA65 7776AA30 1D7F 41C0 9A73 3434C469873F
 
Mudder

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@Willi Kinda unrelated but a volt meter that has the option of a sound for a continuity test to check for broken wires, even the freebies from Harbour freight work ok for this stuff. Always read for voltage before checking continuity. Regardless, sounds like you do the job right, the first time!
 
Willi

Willi

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@Willi Kinda unrelated but a volt meter that has the option of a sound for a continuity test to check for broken wires, even the freebies from Harbour freight work ok for this stuff. Always read for voltage before checking continuity. Regardless, sounds like you do the job right, the first time!

Thanks! I appreciate all the info I get from you guys. This is one area I never learned much about, no one knows everything, although some have tried to tell everyone they did! Lol. I've built houses but not electrical/mechanical stuff. I feel proud after being able to do these new projects. My bucket list is slowly getting checked off
This site is great!
 
Willi

Willi

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I won't be able to reply thoroughly until tonight.

Thanks for the heads up, no rush on my end. Appreciate you taking the time to help me out when you can. I don’t want to set my new p500 on fire or even fry anything.
 
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I agree with @Mudder about the multimeter, but you may not be ready for one of those yet. :D The +12V test light can find hot wires and grounds. You connect one end to a ground (unpainted part of the frame) then touch wires until it lights up telling you it's hot. You can also connect it to a hot, then touch wires until it lights up telling you it's a ground. But I always make my own grounds by removing a bolt or screw on the frame, scraping or sanding the paint away, then put an eyelet on the end of your ground wire, put the bolt through the eyelet and tightening it back down. You can't really rely on an existing wire to be an actual ground... sometimes they test out as a ground when they're not. It's always best to use your own.
 
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Just noticed your ground wire already has an eyelet on the end. You're halfway done!
 
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Smitty335

Smitty335

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Sorry
I agree with @Mudder about the multimeter, but you may not be ready for one of those yet. :D The +12V test light can find hot wires and grounds. You connect one end to a ground (unpainted part of the frame) then touch wires until it lights up telling you it's hot. You can also connect it to a hot, then touch wires until it lights up telling you it's a ground. But I always make my own grounds by removing a bolt or screw on the frame, scraping or sanding the paint away, then put an eyelet on the end of your ground wire, put the bolt through the eyelet and tightening it back down. You can't really rely on an existing wire to be an actual ground... sometimes they test out as a ground when they're not. It's always best to use your own.
Sorry, I had to chuckle, on the comment, but you may not be ready for one of those yet. Every one needs to learn to use a multi meter, including me, I still don't know how to use all the functions on my meter. And the good thing is, the meter won't kill you! HA!
 
Willi

Willi

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I agree with @Mudder about the multimeter, but you may not be ready for one of those yet. :D The +12V test light can find hot wires and grounds. You connect one end to a ground (unpainted part of the frame) then touch wires until it lights up telling you it's hot. You can also connect it to a hot, then touch wires until it lights up telling you it's a ground. But I always make my own grounds by removing a bolt or screw on the frame, scraping or sanding the paint away, then put an eyelet on the end of your ground wire, put the bolt through the eyelet and tightening it back down. You can't really rely on an existing wire to be an actual ground... sometimes they test out as a ground when they're not. It's always best to use your own.

Thanks again! My confidence level is high now . Do you have any questions on house building I can help YOU with? Just not plumbing or electrical, I subbed that work out. Lol
I do remember one time when we turned a tall attic space above a three car garage into an in-law apartment, that my electrician told us where to run what kind of wire ( ie: 12-3) from where to where and we left pigtails for him to connect at the boxes. Woo woo!
 

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