P1000 Bearing Grease

bumperm

bumperm

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I too use it on firearms. It's a NLGI #2 GC-LB grease that is specifically marketed for wheel bearings by the manufacturer. Seems to be doing fine.

"*GC-LB Wide temperature grease for use in components such as bearings, chassis and universal joints in passenger cars, trucks and other vehicles under mild and
severe duty. This includes vehicles operated under frequent stop-and-go service (buses, taxis, urban police cars, etc.), or under severe braking service (trailer
towing, heavy loading, mountain driving, etc.) (see ASTM D4950)."



The "Project Farm" guy on YouTube did a testing review on grease, but didn't include Super Lube - I suggested he add that but I don't think it's happened yet. He does several tests including one that measures the grease's ability to protect from friction.
 
Smitty335

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The "Project Farm" guy on YouTube did a testing review on grease, but didn't include Super Lube - I suggested he add that but I don't think it's happened yet. He does several tests including one that measures the grease's ability to protect from friction.
The issue with grease is usually the lack of it in the affected areas?
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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The issue with grease is usually the lack of it in the affected areas?

Well, that's for sure part of it! Grease is oil plus thickener (usually a soap or metallic substance such as lithium) that serves to hold the oil in place where oil alone would quickly be displaced. I'm not at all a lubrication specialist, I just like most all mechanical stuff and know a little bit about a lot, or in other words enough to be dangerous.
 
Bighat

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Firm believer in grease but If if these are sealed bearings and I blow a seal by pumping in to much grease, won't that defeat the purpose of keeping water and mud out?
 
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Neohio

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Firm believer in grease but If if these are sealed bearings and I blow a seal by pumping in to much grease, won't that defeat the purpose of keeping water and mud out?
Watch this video.

While our bearing are technically "sealed", the seal does allow too much grease to exit the bearing.
If they were 100% sealed, water would never find its way into the bearing.
 
Bighat

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I see. The CA Tech is for a Talon on their website. Does the Pioneer use the same 40mm tool? How often do you grease them? I ride mostly on the farm and gravel roads. Water deep enough to get to the bearing would be once in a great while. Maybe crossing a creek for high water on the road.
 
Hondasxs

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We each have our own opinions and I respect that in regards to this topic.

Personally. More grease is not better.

My research has shown manufactures assign a higher air space than grease ratio. As shown in the video and why it looks to have little grease and lots of air space.

More grease will force it to churn, heat up, push the seals out, and cause additional wear. With a fairly new bearing you will be speeding up the issue you hope to prevent.

This false "resolution" of "more grease" will only be amplified and you will be left with a feeling you should of done it more when reality is you did it too much.

Outside of replacing them. I would only do it as a last resort to get me through the weekend on a bad bearing.

Bad is bad.
Once bad, grease is not a fix.
Replace them.

Thanks for reading my thoughts.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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Smitty335

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We each have our own opinions and I respect that in regards to this topic.

Personally. More grease is not better.

My research has shown manufactures assign a higher air space than grease ratio. As shown in the video and why it looks to have little grease and lots of air space.

More grease will force it to churn, heat up, push the seals out, and cause additional wear. With a fairly new bearing you will be speeding up the issue you hope to prevent.

This false "resolution" of "more grease" will only be amplified and you will be left with a feeling you should of done it more when reality is you did it too much.

Outside of replacing them. I would only do it as a last resort to get me through the weekend on a bad bearing.

Bad is bad.
Once bad, grease is not a fix.
Replace them.

Thanks for reading my thoughts.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
A friend of mine sponsored by Gas Gas had his mechanic show him how to pop the seal and pack it the ole fashioned way that leaves air space, of course reinstall the seal.
 
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P1K5Dave

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I use a bearing greaser, but I did factor in what @Hondasxs has pointed out, so I go nowhere close to pumping it chock full of grease like they do in the video. 3-5 pumps in each one every 1500-3000 miles is my plan.

I had one bearing (RF) squealing at 3,000 miles, it was just dry. I'm still running that bearing, it runs smooth and tight.
 
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WRFP399

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Follow on update two years down the road. Getting ready for the season so I decided to pull and clean/inspect/lubricate the chassis and drivetrain as needed.

When I pulled the front wheel hubs off there was still visible grease hanging around in globs at the back of the axle splines. All surfaces were clean and rust free. The SuperLube Multipurpose Grease has changed from it's transparent white color to a transparent off white. Seems to have held up well.

I do a fair amount of water crossings here where the water over the hubs. There is also a lot of glacial silt in the water and in the air which is a very fine abrasive.
 
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WRFP399

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Here was the left rear when I took it apart.
 
someguy1313

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excellent.

Did we ever decide if CA Tech tool would work on the P1K?
 
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DRZRon1

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excellent.

Did we ever decide if CA Tech tool would work on the P1K?
any bearing greaser tool for the specific year for a p1K will work, I use a waterproof grease, 2-3 pumps per bearing - the intent is just to pump out a little grease and get some fresh grease in - it’s not rocket science
 
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someguy1313

someguy1313

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any bearing greaser tool for the specific year for a p1K will work, I use a waterproof grease, 2-3 pumps per bearing - the intent is just to pump out a little grease and get some fresh grease in - it’s not rocket science

Sure. and Thanks.

I always buy American made when I can.
And as others in this thread have found, some state they work with the P1K but don't fit. Just looking for input regarding this particular product by CA Tech and curious if it works on the P1K.
 
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PJon

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At 3000 miles, I had intermittent bearing noise from the RF wheel. Bought a bearing greaser, hit them all, and have never had a problem again.

I bump them every brake pad change.
I greased mine at 6,000 miles when changing to SATV ARMS. brake pads (originals) still in great shape. But then I run in the desert with few water crossings and even less mud. Lots of rattles from all the rocky trails but the radio headset cancels most of the noise.
 
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P1K5Dave

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FTR, I don't hit them with grease at every brake pad change anymore. That would require removing the rotor every time - too much trouble. I'll just grease them if anything squeals going forward.
 
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