HBarlow
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just for clarity, machine was so low on oil that oil pressure light triggered?
how many miles if any did you run with no oil pressure?
don't know - didn't think these moved with no oil pressure?
seems like we are missing a breadcrumb clue here or technical check like compression, gas in oil, air filter spotless, etc.
somewhere the machine blew thru at least 2 quarts of oil, was overfilled, etc. -
I think a compression check would be high on my "to do" list. Did you check for dirt downstream from the large air filter? That area of the intake should be clean, any evidence of dirt on the intake walls there means the abrasive dirt got to the rings and cylinder walls as well.
Still blowing stuff out the exhaust before it’s up to temp. I’m assuming it’s unburnt fuel. I rode 45 miles yesterday after oil change and oil level is still full.
At 29 miles in I stopped to get in the cooler, and the sxs stalled on take off. 2 miles after that it stalled again when I stopped to check gps. It continued to stall a couple more times on the way home. Only happens on restarts and doesn’t happen all the time
At 29 miles in I stopped to get in the cooler, and the sxs stalled on take off. 2 miles after that it stalled again when I stopped to check gps. It continued to stall a couple more times on the way home. Only happens on restarts and doesn’t happen all the time
I think the oil pressure light stays on when the key is in the run position and the engine isn’t running. So, it probably just came on after the engine stalled. It goes back off when you start the machine. I’m gonna do a compression check for s***s and giggles, but I’m starting to lean towards a fuel issue. It’s acting exactly like it did when one of my fuel injectors sensor wires broke off. I’ve ruled out the sensors this time.
I did change the air filter, it looked fine and was clean on the downstream side.
I did an oil change and rode for 45 miles so far and didn’t lose any
Gonna do one today if the rain stops. Downstream side of air filter was clean
HBarlow
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What kind of "stuff" is blowing out he exhaust. That could be previous deposits during a period when the engine was dumping unburned fuel.
Random Stalling of a modern fuel injected, computer-controlled engine can be very difficult to trace but possible caused by a simple corroded or loose connection somewhere.
The most simple and basic is most often the cause. Have you parked the machine for long periods with old bad gas?
You have to start with the basics. Fresh, clean fuel in the tank, fresh oil and filter change, new correct heat range spark plugs, clean and all oem air filter, no modifications, no known causes.
Random Stalling of a modern fuel injected, computer-controlled engine can be very difficult to trace but possible caused by a simple corroded or loose connection somewhere.
The most simple and basic is most often the cause. Have you parked the machine for long periods with old bad gas?
You have to start with the basics. Fresh, clean fuel in the tank, fresh oil and filter change, new correct heat range spark plugs, clean and all oem air filter, no modifications, no known causes.
I’ve covered all those bases. Plugs look good. Compression was 145psi on both cylinders. Once I put the plugs back in it and started it, it smelled pretty rich around the injectors.
The last time I had this problem stalling, it was the injector sensors.
Someone here had a similar problem, it turned out to the ECU.
HBarlow
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Now that I understand where you are in the process it sounds like you are industrious and have a good understanding of what you're doing.
My hands on experience tinkering with high performance engines ended long ago when carburetors disappeared and computer control and electronic fuel injection showed up. Diagnosis requires shop computers.
If you're sure your fuel tank and the entire fuel system is filled with fresh, clean fuel and your engine is still stalling I can't help. You've eliminated loose and corroded wires and connectors so I'm done. Perhaps another member who has experience with your problem can share his solution?
I don't even remember the last time I had a car or truck with a problem other than normal wear and tear replacement of parts.
At this point I would load my Pioneer on the trailer and haul it to my dealer. The dealer techs have training, experience, and can plug the machine into their computer and let the diagnostics run.
My hands on experience tinkering with high performance engines ended long ago when carburetors disappeared and computer control and electronic fuel injection showed up. Diagnosis requires shop computers.
If you're sure your fuel tank and the entire fuel system is filled with fresh, clean fuel and your engine is still stalling I can't help. You've eliminated loose and corroded wires and connectors so I'm done. Perhaps another member who has experience with your problem can share his solution?
I don't even remember the last time I had a car or truck with a problem other than normal wear and tear replacement of parts.
At this point I would load my Pioneer on the trailer and haul it to my dealer. The dealer techs have training, experience, and can plug the machine into their computer and let the diagnostics run.
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I read a little bit on that forum. I’m leaning towards injectors or the ecu. I need to revisit that forum to see how that person troubleshot that.
The dealer tried to sell him a new injector after it was determined to be the ECU. Maybe try the ECU swap first.
HBarlow
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Another thought:
I don't have any idea what the retail price of one fuel injector for our Pioneer 1000 is but dealerships often charge a one hour flat fee for diagnosis and probably another hour to install one injector. That's roughly $200 to $250 at current rates.
I always recommend against easter-egg troubleshooting but If a bad injector is suspected and you're unwilling to pay dealer labor rates you could consider buying one new injector or two new injectors and replace them instead.
I don't have any idea what the retail price of one fuel injector for our Pioneer 1000 is but dealerships often charge a one hour flat fee for diagnosis and probably another hour to install one injector. That's roughly $200 to $250 at current rates.
I always recommend against easter-egg troubleshooting but If a bad injector is suspected and you're unwilling to pay dealer labor rates you could consider buying one new injector or two new injectors and replace them instead.
Ohio4x4
I brought the dishwasher
Lifetime Member
If it is an injector issue which cylinder is struggling.
An injector is bout $80. Haven’t gotten a chance to call around and find one yet. All the dealers around me were closed yesterday
Not sure. I forgot my infrared temp gun at work. I’m gonna try to remember it tomorrow
HBarlow
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
That's what I was thinking. Buying and installing two new fuel injectors @ $80/ea would be cheaper than taking it to a dealer.
It's guessing which I don't like but if you suspect an injector it may be the cheapest route.
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HBarlow
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No, I’m still stuck in the mud so to speak. I haven’t gotten it out of the driveway to put some more miles on it, but just by starting it and letting it run, I can tell it’s still running rich and the idle now has become a little erratic. Sometimes it’s really low rpm’s at idle, then it’ll increase to 2000 rpm’s and stay there at idle. Still appears to have unburnt fuel coming out the tail pipe and blueish/white smoke if I depress the throttle and increase the rpm’s to 4000 or so.
HBarlow
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Lifetime Member
It's not a good idea to continue running an engine running that rich. The additional fuel is not burning completely so is washing oil lubrication from cylinder walls with each stroke. It will soon cause excessive wear of piston rings and cylinder walls if it hasn't already done so trashing an engine prematurely.
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