P1000m5 Coolant is too cold!

[Skjerv40]

This post is very tongue-in-cheek, but I was plowing snow up here in Minnesota yesterday when it was -25°. My 1000-5 worked perfectly, but my motor doesn’t seem to want to warm up enough to heat the coolant for my heater. Ran the thing hard for over an hour pushing snow and the temp gauge never went above the first bar.See the temp gauges. Also cheap Chinese Digital thermometers don’t go below zero. They just flash 3L’s at you constantly for too low. It’s a nice constant reminder that you’re a freaking idiot for a living where it gets this cold. I did stuff some insulation up under the dash and that got me closer to 50°. Is there actually any way to get my engine to safely run a little hotter? I do understand it’s all aluminum and semi exposed.

performs admirably


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Admin]

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Might help to block off the front of the radiator.

 

[Vikes79]

Just like the old timers...piece of cardboard or something flat that can block the radiator.

I need to do something similar to my rig as well.

 

[JTW]

What they said!

 

[alloutdoors]

Agreed, blocking the radiator will help.

 

[Hardwaterflyer]

Agreed block the radiator. The new half ton pickups now have slats in front of the radiator for quick warmup and for improved aerodynamics at highway speeds. Maybe a higher temp. thermostat is available.

 

[Neohio]

Where did you tap your heater plumbing into the engine?

 

[JTW]

Where did you tap your heater plumbing into the engine?

Good point!

 

[Skjerv40]

Where did you tap your heater plumbing into the engine?

I tapped in as close to the engine as I could. I actually initially tapped too close to the elbow and couldn’t get my splice piece in. In the fall the heater would get up to above 80°. At this point it’s comfortable in there and I have quite a few variables that I just have to deal with. First off I have a soft cab so there are some limitations there. Are used automotive weatherstripping to seal around the doors, filled the doors with spray foam insulation, put on a glass windshield, used gorilla all weather tape to seal up the gaps between the cab, windshield, and other structure. I also stuffed some fiberglass insulation up under the dash but I’m planning on replacing it with some ceramic heat shield insulation just because I don’t want to feel like a redneck. I have three events below the seat that are putting out pretty good heat. The one that comes directly from the heater is obviously giving out the most heat. The two for the defrost that you see in the picture are traveling along way through the tunnel and up to the dash. I’m sure I’m losing a ton of heat there and I should look into somehow insulating that tubing or the tunnel. I’ve got a summit 28000 btu heater. I’m going to try the cardboard idea. My dad used to do it with his 1960s Ford truck and I forgot about it. I might try to find something a little more stylish.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JTW]

I tapped in as close to the engine as I could. I actually initially tapped too close to the elbow and couldn’t get my splice piece in. In the fall the heater would get up to above 80°. At this point it’s comfortable in there and I have quite a few variables that I just have to deal with. First off I have a soft cab so there are some limitations there. Are used automotive weatherstripping to seal around the doors, filled the doors with spray foam insulation, put on a glass windshield, used gorilla all weather tape to seal up the gaps between the cab, windshield, and other structure. I also stuffed some fiberglass insulation up under the dash but I’m planning on replacing it with some ceramic heat shield insulation just because I don’t want to feel like a redneck. I have three events below the seat that are putting out pretty good heat. The one that comes directly from the heater is obviously giving out the most heat. The two for the defrost that you see in the picture are traveling along way through the tunnel and up to the dash. I’m sure I’m losing a ton of heat there and I should look into somehow insulating that tubing or the tunnel. I’ve got a summit 28000 btu heater. I’m going to try the cardboard idea. My dad used to do it with his 1960s Ford truck and I forgot about it. I might try to find something a little more stylish.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe he’s getting at.. what side of the radiator did you splice?

 

[Skjerv40]

I believe he’s getting at.. what side of the radiator did you splice?

This is diagram I followed.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Neohio]

Maybe @Remington or @OleRed can chime in with their setup.
I believe @OleRed had his putting out weak heat until he reworked it. I would want my heater core getting fed hot coolant from engine right past the thermostat. That will feed 190F coolant into the core, then feed from core into rad.

 

[Remington]

Both @OleRed and I spliced at the elbow just out of the water pump and then again at the oil cooler at the back of the engine keeping the the main stock loop intact just with an isolation ball valve there to go to through the heater when needed. I can’t tell with the pic of your set up what you have there. If you don’t have a bypass valve and you just bypassed all together,make sure it’s not too long. If your hoses are too long when it gets cold as balls outside you might not be able to get any hot coolant through the whole system. You may be loosing thermal energy through your loop making the coolant cool. That said, a piece of cardboard would help if you don’t have a bypass. and make sure you have the right coolant mixture and air completely out of the system. Take pics of your whole hose bypass system so we can see exactly what you have. It was 10 here today and my heater got almost very hot.

 

[JTW]

View attachment 104484

This is diagram I followed.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t tell from the pics but are you sure you have the flow right? Hot side going to the heater and not the cool side?

 

[Remington]

I can’t tell from the pics but are you sure you have the flow right? Hot side going to the heater and not the cool side?

Good point

 

[OleRed]

You will just have to try stuff until it works. report back on the cardboard trick. I’m putting my money there for this one. I think that might be enough.

The note about coolant flow direction is a good one— Irouted my coolant flow the wrong direction originally and had to cut it all out and start over. I put my heater under the hood simply running the line out of oil cooler through tunnel and up to the bottom fitting on heater core. Top line went back down through tunnel and to water pump. I ran my ducts to the cup holders. Passenger side is shorter then driver side and it noticeably
warmer air coming out. I can hold th cab at a descent temp when running across the lake. When I have a reason to dig back in I will be routing both ducts straight out warning plate for some nice 4” runs and getting my cup holders back.

Quick question— what is the difference between your heater box and one rated for less btu? I am wondering if you would get more heat out of a heater rated for less.

 

[Remington]

Quick question— what is the difference between your heater box and one rated for less btu? I am wondering if you would get more heat out of a heater rated for less.

Not to answer that for him, my .2 no you would not unless his runs are very short in terms of inches from the box but still wouldn’t be better with less BTUs. Just like in a furnace, if I put less btus in your house it would run constantly with warm air but can’t produce enough heat to reach a desired temp. If that’s what your asking?

 

[Neohio]

I tapped in as close to the engine as I could. I actually initially tapped too close to the elbow and couldn’t get my splice piece in. In the fall the heater would get up to above 80°. At this point it’s comfortable in there and I have quite a few variables that I just have to deal with. First off I have a soft cab so there are some limitations there. Are used automotive weatherstripping to seal around the doors, filled the doors with spray foam insulation, put on a glass windshield, used gorilla all weather tape to seal up the gaps between the cab, windshield, and other structure. I also stuffed some fiberglass insulation up under the dash but I’m planning on replacing it with some ceramic heat shield insulation just because I don’t want to feel like a redneck. I have three events below the seat that are putting out pretty good heat. The one that comes directly from the heater is obviously giving out the most heat. The two for the defrost that you see in the picture are traveling along way through the tunnel and up to the dash. I’m sure I’m losing a ton of heat there and I should look into somehow insulating that tubing or the tunnel. I’ve got a summit 28000 btu heater. I’m going to try the cardboard idea. My dad used to do it with his 1960s Ford truck and I forgot about it. I might try to find something a little more stylish.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It sounds like you tapped into the coolant leaving an open loop.
You should only have to cut one line on the engine.
Cut that line, build a bypass with valves, then force all the coolant thru your heater. In summer you orient the valves to bypass your heater.
Sounds like you just tee'd your heater into 2 lines. It will never bleed all the air out, or get very warm if you cannot force hot coolant thru the heater.
Build a system like this.

Your heater core will be on the left in the image.
Normal use will be when you want heat.
Bypassed will be when you don't want heat.

 

[Remington]

It sounds like you tapped into the coolant leaving an open loop.
You should only have to cut one line on the engine.
Cut that line, build a bypass with valves, then force all the coolant thru your heater. In summer you orient the valves to bypass your heater.
Sounds like you just tee'd your heater into 2 lines. It will never bleed all the air out, or get very warm if you cannot force hot coolant thru the heater.
Build a system like this.
View attachment 104580
Your heater core will be on the left in the image.
Normal use will be when you want heat.
Bypassed will be when you don't want heat.

Exactly what I have in my set up @Skjerv40 check this out start at post #84 for pics. This may help you
P1000 - Universal heater

 

[Neohio]

Exactly what I have in my set up @Skjerv40 check this out start at post #84 for pics. This may help you
P1000 - Universal heater

Yup! Follow his lead.
With @Remington being in the HVAC world, it is pretty easy to put some faith in his install.
If you pick up coolant right after the thermostat, this will be the hottest coolant you can get in the whole loop.