P1000 ECM Update Available

[HondaTech]

I only saw mine run from the service waiting room to my trailer. They were having trouble with the shop laptop. So they pulled it into the lobby and used the desktop computerView attachment 106052 View attachment 106053

We had a similar issues with ours as well, we had to download the file and transfer it with a flash drive to the shop laptop. We dont have anyway to get anything bigger than a small dirt bike to service counter.

I've since gotten the update on my personal laptop as a backup.

 

[Admin]

 

[JTW]

So what about the 16’s? What’s the deal there?

 

[HondaTech]

So what about the 16’s? What’s the deal there?

I've heard the 17s got several updates and for whatever reason this issue came about because of the changes they made.

 

[Tramguage1]

I've heard the 17s got several updates and for whatever reason this issue came about because of the changes they made.

Im really wondering what all was changed in the programing. Wonder if they addressed any other issues that we havent noticed.

 

[nbomar]

So what about the 16’s? What’s the deal there?

My 16 has never over heated.


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[BWAF]

My 16 has never over heated.


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My 16 never has either!

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[Smitty335]

My 16 never has either!

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Mine either.

 

[JTW]

My 16 has never over heated.


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Mine did only due to a bubble... I was just curious if they had any mention of why.

 

[JTW]

Annnnd... if they update a 16 does the 16 now have the updated manual/auto shift memory feature?

 

[HondaTech]

Annnnd... if they update a 16 does the 16 now have the updated manual/auto shift memory feature?

Wheel you open the ECM update file it auto selects which file for what ecm is needed. I'd assume that it would recognize the '16 ECM as available to update.

 

[Tramguage1]

Wheel you open the ECM update file it auto selects which file for what ecm is needed. I'd assume that it would recognize the '16 ECM as available to update.

Do you happen to know if the ECM in the 16 is the same? Any idea what all was changed with this update?

 

[HondaTech]

Do you happen to know if the ECM in the 16 is the same? Any idea what all was changed with this update?

Looking at the wiring diagram there are couple of pins in the 17 model that aren't populated in the '16 model, they seem to be tied to the I-4wd. More specifically, pins 2. 12, and 27 in the large black connector. Pin 12 is labeled SW1 (DRV), I have no idea what those abbreviations mean.

There are also a 2 pins in the '16 ECM that have the words (Mode Change) next to them that isn't present on the '17. They are pin 1 and pin 7 in that same 33P black connector. That might have something to do with the keeping modes after shutting the unit down.

The only big issues I can ID off the bat about swapping ECM's is this: If you look at the diagnostic section the manual for a '17 and up machine several normal sensor values are different than a '16 model. So swapping the ECM could lead to multiple codes triggering that don't actually point to anything being wrong with the unit.

For instance DTC 8-1 TP Sensor Voltage Low, 2016 less then .298 volts 2017 and later .122 volts.
So swapping a 2017 ECM into a 2016 could possibly not trigger the code correctly if an issue in the TP sensor system comes up.

Edit: The pins I mentioned above don't have wires from the harness going to them on a 2016 model, so they wouldn't go anywhere. I haven't cross referenced any part numbers, but I think the ECM is the same with or without I-4wd, the unit just wouldn't have the wiring for it.

 

[Tramguage1]

I'm not sure but I think it accelerates better.
Also I let it idle about 30 to 40 minutes, the fan cycled about 10 or 12 times after it warmed up.

 

[JTW]

Looking at the wiring diagram there are couple of pins in the 17 model that aren't populated in the '16 model, they seem to be tied to the I-4wd. More specifically, pins 2. 12, and 27 in the large black connector. Pin 12 is labeled SW1 (DRV), I have no idea what those abbreviations mean.

There are also a 2 pins in the '16 ECM that have the words (Mode Change) next to them that isn't present on the '17. They are pin 1 and pin 7 in that same 33P black connector. That might have something to do with the keeping modes after shutting the unit down.

The only big issues I can ID off the bat about swapping ECM's is this: If you look at the diagnostic section the manual for a '17 and up machine several normal sensor values are different than a '16 model. So swapping the ECM could lead to multiple codes triggering that don't actually point to anything being wrong with the unit.

For instance DTC 8-1 TP Sensor Voltage Low, 2016 less then .298 volts 2017 and later .122 volts.
So swapping a 2017 ECM into a 2016 could possibly not trigger the code correctly if an issue in the TP sensor system comes up.

Edit: The pins I mentioned above don't have wires from the harness going to them on a 2016 model, so they wouldn't go anywhere. I haven't cross referenced any part numbers, but I think the ECM is the same with or without I-4wd, the unit just wouldn't have the wiring for it.

Interesting... I’d sure like to have that memory feature

 

[Little_g]

Question? Would this be good to have done if your machine has never had a problem with the fan not coming on? Mine works as it should but will it eventually happen where it won’t come on. What would you guys do?

 

[Tramguage1]

Question? Would this be good to have done if your machine has never had a problem with the fan not coming on? Mine works as it should but will it eventually happen where it won’t come on. What would you guys do?

My opinion is if you haven't had any problems I would wait and see how the update goes for other people it's only been out a month or so and mine hasn't had any problems. But also mine is only overheated twice with 1200 miles on my machine

 

[Leeroy13]

So i just spoke with a service manager and he said the ECM reflash is for 2017, 2018, and some 2019 models depending on the VIN. I had 2 similar issues as some of you with my 2018 P1000. About a month ago it ran hot doing yard work going about 5-10 mph. It went to all 4 bars on the temp gauge and the temp warning light came on. I got it back to my shop where some coolant started to leaked out. Brought it to the dealer I purchased it from and they couldn't get it to overheat so they returned it to me as is. This past weekend, while again doing yard cruising at 5 mph..ish, the temp gauge rose to 3 bars and i noticed the fan had not kicked on. I stopped, turned it off, waited about a minute or 2 then once I restarted it, the fan immediately kicked on and the temp went back down.

Back to the service manager- he advised that there is some kind of glitch when turning the unit on and the ECM not engaging the cooling fan at all- hence the need for the reflash. If you turn your key to the on position before staring the unit and wait 4 seconds or longer, the cooling fan will NEVER engage. So the solution he gave me until i can get the ECM reflashed was to immediately start the engine from the off position. He also recommended that I flush the cooling system for any air that maybe trapped.

If anyone wants to test this, he said the cooling fan should engage at I believe 18-20 minutes after starting.

Hope this helps.

 

[TripleB]

So i just spoke with a service manager and he said the ECM reflash is for 2017, 2018, and some 2019 models depending on the VIN. I had 2 similar issues as some of you with my 2018 P1000. About a month ago it ran hot doing yard work going about 5-10 mph. It went to all 4 bars on the temp gauge and the temp warning light came on. I got it back to my shop where some coolant started to leaked out. Brought it to the dealer I purchased it from and they couldn't get it to overheat so they returned it to me as is. This past weekend, while again doing yard cruising at 5 mph..ish, the temp gauge rose to 3 bars and i noticed the fan had not kicked on. I stopped, turned it off, waited about a minute or 2 then once I restarted it, the fan immediately kicked on and the temp went back down.

Back to the service manager- he advised that there is some kind of glitch when turning the unit on and the ECM not engaging the cooling fan at all- hence the need for the reflash. If you turn your key to the on position before staring the unit and wait 4 seconds or longer, the cooling fan will NEVER engage. So the solution he gave me until i can get the ECM reflashed was to immediately start the engine from the off position. He also recommended that I flush the cooling system for any air that maybe trapped.

If anyone wants to test this, he said the cooling fan should engage at I believe 18-20 minutes after starting.

Hope this helps.

I overheated last October. I've been starting mine that way ever since then with no overheating since. I will get the update when I take it in for the gas pedal recall.

 

[Little_g]

Now I always wait to start mine a few seconds after I turn the key on and have never had the problem. Mine does not like to start when just turning the key right to start. I’m still going to get mine flashes when I get my throttle recall done.

So i just spoke with a service manager and he said the ECM reflash is for 2017, 2018, and some 2019 models depending on the VIN. I had 2 similar issues as some of you with my 2018 P1000. About a month ago it ran hot doing yard work going about 5-10 mph. It went to all 4 bars on the temp gauge and the temp warning light came on. I got it back to my shop where some coolant started to leaked out. Brought it to the dealer I purchased it from and they couldn't get it to overheat so they returned it to me as is. This past weekend, while again doing yard cruising at 5 mph..ish, the temp gauge rose to 3 bars and i noticed the fan had not kicked on. I stopped, turned it off, waited about a minute or 2 then once I restarted it, the fan immediately kicked on and the temp went back down.

Back to the service manager- he advised that there is some kind of glitch when turning the unit on and the ECM not engaging the cooling fan at all- hence the need for the reflash. If you turn your key to the on position before staring the unit and wait 4 seconds or longer, the cooling fan will NEVER engage. So the solution he gave me until i can get the ECM reflashed was to immediately start the engine from the off position. He also recommended that I flush the cooling system for any air that maybe trapped.

If anyone wants to test this, he said the cooling fan should engage at I believe 18-20 minutes after starting.

Hope this helps.

 

[Leeroy13]

Now I always wait to start mine a few seconds after I turn the key on and have never had the problem. Mine does not like to start when just turning the key right to start. I’m still going to get mine flashes when I get my throttle recall done.

I was the same way but the service manager assured me that it is perfectly fine to start it like that. I know there is a buzz for something turning on when you switch the key to on but again, he assured me that starting it the way he instructed won’t hurt anything.