P1000 Fuel in the exhaust

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pappyo

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Setting for long period ??
Hard starting
White smoke & lots of it
Stalling / running rough
Idel problems
ALL of These lead to CLASSIC "OLD GAS " Simptoms of ( Ethanol Gas)
90% chance <> New ( Non-Ethonal Gas ) & New Spark Plugs <> Will Fix your problem.

Old Ethonal Gas gives off a different Odor than Fresh Gas ( give it a snif test ) to see if you think its a direction to persue Or Not.
 
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Hawk53

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Have you tried getting it outside so you can get the engine up to operating temperature and see if it clears out what sounds like an over-rich condition?
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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Setting for long period ??
Hard starting
White smoke & lots of it
Stalling / running rough
Idel problems
ALL of These lead to CLASSIC "OLD GAS " Simptoms of ( Ethanol Gas)
90% chance <> New ( Non-Ethonal Gas ) & New Spark Plugs <> Will Fix your problem
It could be. It was filled up the last time I used it and browned a half a tank. Just had the wife pickup new plugs for it. Gonna suck out the old gas and put in fresh stuff. I think the low voltage start is what screwed it up along with sitting for a month and a half to two months tops.
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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Have you tried getting it outside so you can get the engine up to operating temperature and see if it clears out what sounds like an over-rich condition?
I have not. I’m throwing a torpedo heater in the garage when I get home to warm the machine up, gonna change the plugs and pump the gas out and replace it with new gas. Even though that gas is only 2-3 months old.
 
JenElio

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I have a 2021 1000-5 with around 300 miles on it. It doesn’t get rode a lot because of time. The last time I started it up was a month to month and a half ago. Well it’s cold in michigan now and we have a bigger snow storm coming so I figured I’d better go out and fire it up to make sure the batteries were good. Turn the key and tried to start it and the dual battery system said 9.7 volts from the drain over the last month and half. It just naturally made the clicking sound and no fire up. I put a jump box on it and it fired up but ran really rough from probably lower voltage and also 15-20 degree temps and the lack of running for so long. It would spit and spitter and then shut off. The steering wheel light came on and the oil pressure light did as well. I tried starting one more time after the batteries charged for an hour and the same thing. Battery voltage was up but still not perfect. Put the charger on the sxs for a full day and it brought both batteries up to perfect voltage. The sxs fires right up. Maybe idles a little sluggish for a few seconds and then gets into the correct idle rpm’s. Both the steering wheel light and oil light went away. When I throttle it up it just sounds off and with the garage door closed it was like a 2 stroke snowmobile in there with heavy gas fumes and white exhaust. There was definitely gas coming out of the exhaust because of it leaving a mark on the floor and a box behind my sxs. Does this sound like trying to start it and run it with low voltage it flooded the motor? Even though there was 24 hours in between starting it back up from the first initial fail and then charge? I’m gonna get new plugs and see if that fixes it but does anyone have any insight into this? I know enough to be dangerous.

View attachment 367239 View attachment 367240
I haven't read through all the responses but, have you checked to make sure you have good gas in the tank? I'd change out the plugs and put fresh gas (empty tank out first) then see what it does for you.

Good luck 👍
 
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Hawk53

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I have not. I’m throwing a torpedo heater in the garage when I get home to warm the machine up, gonna change the plugs and pump the gas out and replace it with new gas. Even though that gas is only 2-3 months old.
Attempting to crank may have fired the injectors and loaded it with fuel. Not sure if it has to see revolution to fire the injectors though or just the crank signal.
 
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pappyo

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ETHONAL GAS setting 2/3 mo.in cold conditions could do it. ( probably has some condensation / water in there.
It is important to get it as EMPTY as possible.
Suggest:eek:nly Use Non-Ethonal 1-gal. & couple oz. Drygas ( Run with OLD Plugs 1st. will take a few minutes ) to clear up smoke & rough running.
Best to push Outside ( that White Smoke WILL FILL your garage/ shop in a couple minutes )
Good luck
Hope I've put on the right path .
 
CID

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ETHONAL GAS setting 2/3 mo.in cold conditions could do it. ( probably has some condensation / water in there.
It is important to get it as EMPTY as possible.
Suggest:eek:nly Use Non-Ethonal 1-gal. & couple oz. Drygas ( Run with OLD Plugs 1st. will take a few minutes ) to clear up smoke & rough running.
Best to push Outside ( that White Smoke WILL FILL your garage/ shop in a couple minutes )
Good luck
Hope I've put on the right path .
The problem with draining the fuel is that water sinks and puddles on the bottom. Getting that small puddle syphoned out takes a lot of luck. Like you mentioned, there are several chemicals available that are supposed to get that water to disperse into the fuel so it can be burned off.
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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That’s what I figured. One was able to burn it off the other cylinder wasn’t is my guess. Could I pop the spark plug out and light the cylinder to make sure it has emptied or is that not a good idea?
Attempting to crank may have fired the injectors and loaded it with fuel. Not sure if it has to see revolution to fire the injectors though or just the crank signa
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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ETHONAL GAS setting 2/3 mo.in cold conditions could do it. ( probably has some condensation / water in there.
It is important to get it as EMPTY as possible.
Suggest:eek:nly Use Non-Ethonal 1-gal. & couple oz. Drygas ( Run with OLD Plugs 1st. will take a few minutes ) to clear up smoke & rough running.
Best to push Outside ( that White Smoke WILL FILL your garage/ shop in a couple minutes )
Good luck
Hope I've put on the right path .
Ok thanks. I’ll try this. I really think it’s just a spark thing which could have been caused by the low voltage and possible flooding and maybe bad fuel. Haven’t had it happen in the past to anything of mine but not to say it couldn’t or hasn’t. Thanks for the insight.
 
Bighat

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Always use fuel additives when storing anything with gas. I knew this but didn't do it years ago and had to work on my generator when it was 20 degrees outside for about 3 to 4 hours during an ice storm. Just to day, added more fuel and gas additive to the generator and let it run a while. Hope I don't need it.
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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Always use fuel additives when storing anything with gas. I knew this but didn't do it years ago and had to work on my generator when it was 20 degrees outside for about 3 to 4 hours during an ice storm. Just to day, added more fuel and gas additive to the generator and let it run a while. Hope I don't need it.
Yep. If this is what it is then lesson learned. I’ve never had an issue in the past but maybe I’ve been lucky.
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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Not sure about access on the Pioneer but on a Talon you can physically reach the exhausts at the head - if you can, with a cold engine, start it, grab each exhaust, if you have a bad plug, one exhaust will heat up, the other won't - now you know the bad cylinder/plug.

Although I have a Talon, those two are lit on mine, key on, engine off. The green N (neutral) light was also lit.
Well just emptied gas and put heet in with new fuel. Started it up with the old plugs and the plug closest to the front is not firing. The header is cold and the rear is screaming hot. Gonna let it run to get heet in the fuel and then swap plugs.
 
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bigc

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if you have a compression tester check it and see what you have if that cylinder is low oil it up and see if the problem goes away
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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if you have a compression tester check it and see what you have if that cylinder is low oil it up and see if the problem goes away
I will have to check compression. Just relaxed the spark plugs and turned it on that inside cylinder still isn’t firing. Header is cool
To the touch while the rear cylinder is a blazing. Now I have to try to figure out why it’s not sparking
 
CID

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I will have to check compression. Just relaxed the spark plugs and turned it on that inside cylinder still isn’t firing. Header is cool
To the touch while the rear cylinder is a blazing. Now I have to try to figure out why it’s not sparking
Switch the plugs first, if the trouble follows, bad plug. If the same cylinder stays cold, let us know.
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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if you have a compression tester check it and see what you have if that cylinder is low oil it up and see if the problem goes away
Here’s the spark plug. The one with electrical tape is the cylinder not firing. The other is the working cylinder.

AE04FCE5 5CDC 449F AF50 78CAC4EA0297
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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Switch the plugs first, if the trouble follows, bad plug. If the same cylinder stays cold, let us know.
I’ll check it now. Can I switch the wires from
The front to back?
 
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Fordpickupjaybird2003

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Switch the plugs first, if the trouble follows, bad plug. If the same cylinder stays cold, let us know.
They’re brand new plugs. I bought brand new oem plugs this morning. Can I switch the cylinder wires around and see if it fires then?
 
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