P1000 Heater installs

[Dano1000_5]

Looking for ideas of heater installation winter is coming want to keep warm. Some guys just put fan and vent holes but kind of worried about carbon monoxide but also I didn’t really want to take up my storage space under the seat

 

[Admin]

 

[Cal]

I've heard there's a company that makes one that goes under the dash/hood, but I don't know what it is. I'm looking for one myself.

 

[HBarlow]

To the best of my knowledge there are three brands and two styles of cab heaters for the Pioneer 10000.

#1 is the Honda Powersports accessory brand. You can read all about it in the Honda Powersports catalog. It mounts under the driver's seat and has ducts blowing air from the seat base and from the dash. Buyers must also buy an expensive switch plate so total price is about $1000 plus installation.

#2 is an Inferno. It's similar to the Honda brand. Installs under the seat, floor ducts from the seat base and dash. Purchase price about $400 plus install.

#3 Is a Firestorm. Manufacturer claims it mounts under the hood. I didn't see enough room under my hood but that's what is claimed. I think ducts are on top and bottom of dash.

#4 Unknown other brand possible that mounts under dash. Firestorm may mount under dash in Pioneer? Don't know.

I have a Firestorm heater and like it. I recommend it. A good value for the price.

Buyers should be aware that the volume of heat generated by a 1000 cc twin cylinder motorcycle engine is not great and the cold air intrusion in a Pioneer is great. My Inferno does a good job of warming my cab at very low speeds but at 40 mph or above the heat produced by the heater is barely felt.

Something to consider is this: The heat source ie the engine is below and behind the seat of a three-seater. If the heater is mounted under the seat it is very close to the engine so water lines carrying heat are short. If the water lines have to move "hot" water all the way to the under-hood area or under-dash, the lines will be long and probably lose a lot of heat. For this reason, i believe the under-seat location is probably a lot more efficient.

 

[Scoop]

To the best of my knowledge there are three brands and two styles of cab heaters for the Pioneer 10000.

There are plenty more than that, but I digress.

I recently installed the Ice Crusher heater by Coupers Products aka J&S Industries aka UTVHEATERS.COM.

The unit itself is installed behind the dash in an otherwise empty spot (behind the "warning plate" that is affixed to the middle of the dash). All the duct runs inside the dash area, so you don't have ducts running from under the seat and in the open, causing the air to cool before it comes out of the vents. One coolant line gets spliced in to the lower radiator hose up front, while the other gets spliced in under the front seat where the oil cooler bypass hose is. Coupers is now offering an electric water pump as an option to this kit - it helps circulate collant when the machine is idle and, because it's moving coolant all the time, it beings to provide heat sooner than usual.

Be forewarned, though - installing a heater behind the dash is no plug-and-play endeavor. You have to remove the entire front clip (plastic) and most things in front of it. If you opt for the electric water pump, you'll need to drop the front half of your skid plate to be able to reach the bolts for the mount and pump.

Important: If you are planning on installing an in-dash heater AND a dual battery/fuse block/relay setup, INSTALL THE HEATER FIRST. Otherwise, you will have a lot of wiring to unhook and rehook when removing the front clip.

I (somewhat) documented my installation of the Ice Crusher heater, including my trials and tribulations, starting here in my build thread.

Something to consider is this: The heat source ie the engine is below and behind the seat of a three-seater. If the heater is mounted under the seat it is very close to the engine so water lines carrying heat are short. If the water lines have to move "hot" water all the way to the under-hood area or under-dash, the lines will be long and probably lose a lot of heat. For this reason, i believe the under-seat location is probably a lot more efficient.

Disagree completely.

With an in-dash model (speaking on my Ice Crusher), you are moving hot coolant from under the front seat area to the dash area. With an under-seat model, you're moving hot air from under the front seat area to the dash area.

When you move hot coolant, you're moving it in a smaller, much thicker rubber hose. When you move hot air, you're moving it in larger, thin flexible duct.

Given the same run length and exposure to outside air, you're going to lose more heat out of the air moving through thin ductwork (the front dash vents for the under-seat model) than you are going to lose from hot coolant moving through a thick rubber hose (the only thing that is not tucked under the dash for the in-dash model).

I also didn't like the way the under-seat models (e.g., Inferno) had you run your thick flexible duct under the front floorboard. I've seen several instances where that ductwork (and electrical wiring for the switch) was ripped out when it all got tangled up in the drive shaft. With the in-dash model, only the coolant supply line runs under there and it's zip tied to the existing coolant lines that already run from the engine to the radiator and back.

Final note: Do keep in mind that no heater is going to provide you with "car like" heat. You're not going to be riding around in the dead of winter in shorts and a tee shirt. This isn't because the heaters can't produce heat - it's because the Pioneer was not really intended to be a full-on winter vehicle. There are a TON of holes, cracks, crevices and open areas that the (cold) wind moves through - a godsend for the summer, but not good for winter. You can use a variety of techniques and products to seal up as much as you can (search the forums), but you'll never get it as cozy as your car/truck/SUV.

 

[HBarlow]

Since the subject of this thread is HOT AIR the log post above would be appropriate if spoken instead of written.

The Honda accessory heater and the Inferno heaters route both hot water and warmed air in the same way. Hot water lines are short by design and the primary heat ducts are extremely short, from the under-seat heater a few inches to exit from the seat base. This method provides a lot of warm air flow to the floor area and, according to the laws of physics, heat rises.

Personally, I don't care what brands of any product other members purchase. I try to state the facts as I know them and let the reader decide.

 

[Remington]

Since the subject of this thread is HOT AIR the log post above would be appropriate if spoken instead of written

Speak for yourself! 😂

 

[Remington]

There are plenty more than that, but I digress.

I recently installed the Ice Crusher heater by Coupers Products aka J&S Industries aka UTVHEATERS.COM.

The unit itself is installed behind the dash in an otherwise empty spot (behind the "warning plate" that is affixed to the middle of the dash). All the duct runs inside the dash area, so you don't have ducts running from under the seat and in the open, causing the air to cool before it comes out of the vents. One coolant line gets spliced in to the lower radiator hose up front, while the other gets spliced in under the front seat where the oil cooler bypass hose is. Coupers is now offering an electric water pump as an option to this kit - it helps circulate collant when the machine is idle and, because it's moving coolant all the time, it beings to provide heat sooner than usual.

Be forewarned, though - installing a heater behind the dash is no plug-and-play endeavor. You have to remove the entire front clip (plastic) and most things in front of it. If you opt for the electric water pump, you'll need to drop the front half of your skid plate to be able to reach the bolts for the mount and pump.

Important: If you are planning on installing an in-dash heater AND a dual battery/fuse block/relay setup, INSTALL THE HEATER FIRST. Otherwise, you will have a lot of wiring to unhook and rehook when removing the front clip.

I (somewhat) documented my installation of the Ice Crusher heater, including my trials and tribulations, starting here in my build thread.


Disagree completely.

With an in-dash model (speaking on my Ice Crusher), you are moving hot coolant from under the front seat area to the dash area. With an under-seat model, you're moving hot air from under the front seat area to the dash area.

When you move hot coolant, you're moving it in a smaller, much thicker rubber hose. When you move hot air, you're moving it in larger, thin flexible duct.

Given the same run length and exposure to outside air, you're going to lose more heat out of the air moving through thin ductwork (the front dash vents for the under-seat model) than you are going to lose from hot coolant moving through a thick rubber hose (the only thing that is not tucked under the dash for the in-dash model).

I also didn't like the way the under-seat models (e.g., Inferno) had you run your thick flexible duct under the front floorboard. I've seen several instances where that ductwork (and electrical wiring for the switch) was ripped out when it all got tangled up in the drive shaft. With the in-dash model, only the coolant supply line runs under there and it's zip tied to the existing coolant lines that already run from the engine to the radiator and back.

Final note: Do keep in mind that no heater is going to provide you with "car like" heat. You're not going to be riding around in the dead of winter in shorts and a tee shirt. This isn't because the heaters can't produce heat - it's because the Pioneer was not really intended to be a full-on winter vehicle. There are a TON of holes, cracks, crevices and open areas that ttphe (cold) wind moves through - a godsend for the summer, but not good for winter. You can use a variety of techniques and products to seal up as much as you can (search the forums), but you'll never get it as cozy as your car/truck/SUV.

You dirty troll you! 😂

 

[HBarlow]

Speak for yourself! 😂

I did.

 

[Remington]

I did.

In the words of sleepy joe…
C’mon man!! 😂 🥳

 

[Scoop]

Since the subject of this thread is HOT AIR the log post above would be appropriate if spoken instead of written.

The Honda accessory heater and the Inferno heaters route both hot water and warmed air in the same way. Hot water lines are short by design and the primary heat ducts are extremely short, from the under-seat heater a few inches to exit from the seat base. This method provides a lot of warm air flow to the floor area and, according to the laws of physics, heat rises.

The Inferno heater design routes 33% of the heat the unit generates through flexible duct that goes under the floor, along the driveshaft and up the firewall to the two vents in the dash.

The Honda OEM heater routes 66% of the heat the unit generates through flexible duct that goes under the floor, along the driveshaft and up the firewall to the two vents in the dash.

The Ice Crusher in-dash heater routes 0% of the heat the unit generates through flexible duct that goes under the floor, along the driveshaft and up the firewall to the two vents in the dash. All duct work is behind the dash (with the heater).

Personally, I don't care what brands of any product other members purchase. I try to state the facts as I know them and let the reader decide.

Pictures of facts posted above. What facts did I miss?

One other benefit of an in-dash versus under-seat design: Find deep enough water and you submerge your under-seat design long before you'll submerge your in-dash design.

 

[Yakman]

Looking for ideas of heater installation winter is coming want to keep warm. Some guys just put fan and vent holes but kind of worried about carbon monoxide but also I didn’t really want to take up my storage space under the seat

Looking for ideas of heater installation winter is coming want to keep warm. Some guys just put fan and vent holes but kind of worried about carbon monoxide but also I didn’t really want to take up my storage space under the seat

I too didn't want the heater under my seat. I went with the Super ATV heater. I did it a little different than the instructions. I ran the heater inlet hose to the oil cooler and I put the outlet hose to the water pump where the oil cooler had been connected. Works well. If you go with this one skip the side vents. They're a PIA and don't put out enough heat to justify the work. The two vents in the middle put out plenty. I also have the under dash storage. I cut it in two pieces and butted it against my heater on both sides. Each side still mounts to dash.

 

[HBarlow]

The Inferno heater design routes 33% of the heat the unit generates through flexible duct that goes under the floor, along the driveshaft and up the firewall to the two vents in the dash.

View attachment 309101 View attachment 309099

The Honda OEM heater routes 66% of the heat the unit generates through flexible duct that goes under the floor, along the driveshaft and up the firewall to the two vents in the dash.

View attachment 309108
View attachment 309102

The Ice Crusher in-dash heater routes 0% of the heat the unit generates through flexible duct that goes under the floor, along the driveshaft and up the firewall to the two vents in the dash. All duct work is behind the dash (with the heater).

View attachment 309109


Pictures of facts posted above. What facts did I miss?

One other benefit of an in-dash versus under-seat design: Find deep enough water and you submerge your under-seat design long before you'll submerge your in-dash design.

In the Navy long ago we described your comments and illustrations above as "baffling them with bu . . . . .it

You conveniently "overlook" the long runs of the limited volume of heated water that has to be routed, with significant heat loss, from the engine up to your magic in-dash heater. Please tell us how hot water reaches the dash without passing through the driveshaft tunnel which you imply causes heat loss.

My under-seat mounted Inferno discharges 0% of heated air through the driveshaft tunnel up to the dash when I have the dashv vents closed. Since the two floor ducts are probably not capable of flowing 100% of volume of heated air I probably get 75 - 80% of heated air to the floor vents when the dash ducts are closed.

The only thing that really matters is I'm quite pleased with the inferno heater. My goal is only o state the facts not to cricise another brand or persuade anyone to buy what I bought.

 

[Prntckt]

I have the same unit as Scoop. I selected it because the space below my seat was occupied by my second battery which is a full size AGM battery. The heater works well, but you need to spend the time to seal up the myriad of air leaks in the cab. With that completed, you’ll be reasonably comfortable on the cold winter days. I am glad I installed it, but it is quite a bit of work to install.

 

[05Willys]

If you go with the under the seat option, buy plenty more zipties! You need to tie the s#$t out of the hose that runs thru the tunnel. I felt that I had mine tied sufficiently but there must have been some slack under the dash. It relaxed, dropped down and wrapped itself around the front driveshaft. Not a fun thing to unwrap when your hands don't fit in there.. I bought a rigid duct off Amazon and ziptied the dickens out of it. All seems fine now. Also, if you go with the Inferno option, make the floor vent hoses about 6 to 8 inches longer than what they tell you. There is plenty left to run from heater to the dash vents. If you don't, it is a pretty tight fit putting the floor plate back in. Hope this helps.😁

 

[Scoop]

In the Navy long ago we described your comments and illustrations above as "baffling them with bu . . . . .it

Facts and pictures are baffling to you. Sorry about that.

You conveniently "overlook" the long runs of the limited volume of heated water that has to be routed,

Long RUNS? Wrong. One single run from the heater core to the oil cooler bypass. In a thick, reinforced heater hose that insulates hot coolant far better than thin flexible duct that the air moves through. The return line stays under the hood (not that it matters, as that coolant is headed back to the engine).

with singiciant (sic) heat loss, from the engine up to your magic in-dash heater.

How much is "significant"? And how does that compare to the heat lost in by the cold air whipping up against the thin, flexible ducts carrying the warm-ish air to the front vents? I'm fairly certain that you're not going to lose but a few degrees when moving 200F+ coolant through a thick coolant hose that has much less surface area than the larger, thinner air duct.

Please tell us how hot water reaches the dash without passing through the driveshaft tunnel which you imply causes heat loss.

Absolute rubbish. I was VERY clear pointing out that the coolant runs between the in-dash unit and under the seat.

What part of "With an in-dash model (speaking on my Ice Crusher), you are moving hot coolant from under the front seat area to the dash area." do you not comprehend?

What part of "One coolant line gets spliced in to the lower radiator hose up front, while the other gets spliced in under the front seat where the oil cooler bypass hose is." did you miss?

What part of "With the in-dash model, only the coolant supply line runs under there and it's zip tied to the existing coolant lines that already run from the engine to the radiator and back." slipped by your keen eye?

What part of "Given the same run length and exposure to outside air, you're going to lose more heat out of the air moving through thin ductwork (the front dash vents for the under-seat model) than you are going to lose from hot coolant moving through a thick rubber hose (the only thing that is not tucked under the dash for the in-dash model)." did you overlook?

I suggest that you re-read my post #4 and, this time, pay attention.

My under-seat mounted Inferno discharges 0% of heated air through the driveshaft tunnel up to the dash when I have the dashv vents closed.

Sure, IF you close those vents. And IF a hoppy toad had wings, he wouldn't thump his ass on the ground, either.

But the system is DESIGNED to have that duct work under the floor to the dash. The design of the systems is what I'm referring to, not hypotheticals.

The only thing that really matters is I'm quite pleased with the inferno heater. My goal is only o state the facts not to cricise another brand or persuade anyone to buy what I bought.

I stated facts. I repeatedly described and literally posted pictures of how vents and lines run. Sorry if you can't comprehend.

 

[Scoop]

If you go with the under the seat option, buy plenty more zipties! You need to tie the s#$t out of the hose that runs thru the tunnel. I felt that I had mine tied sufficiently but there must have been some slack under the dash. It relaxed, dropped down and wrapped itself around the front driveshaft.

Your situation may have been the one I remembered reading about.

 

[john790]

Well at the end of the day.What is the temp of the air coming out of the duct at operating temp.JOE That tells everything.

 

[Scoop]

Well at the end of the day.What is the temp of the air coming out of the duct at operating temp.JOE That tells everything.

True dat.

Say, why do all of your posts append "Joe" to the end of the last sentence you write?

 

[john790]

Thats my name Joe

 

[Scoop]

Thats my name Joe

Oh, OK. For some reason, I thought it might be "John" 😆

You might want to edit your "signature" so that your name gets added at below the message, not at the end. Add a line return and then your name should do it.