P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Replacement - A How To Guide!

snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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I have a question!
I noticed in the service manual, the final drive gear has the “cushion” gear on the outer portion. It shows a 6mm bolt needing to be installed to align the gears so the clutches can slide in. Then, once the clutch assembly is in, remove the 6mm bolt

I notice, if the whole rear cover isn’t removed,you can’t get to the gear to align it, but it’s not mentioned in your wright up.
I’m not saying I’m right, I’m wondering if I’m off for thinking there needs to be more tension in the cushion gear?
You do have to remove the oil tank and center plate to put that bolt in before pulling the clutch out to keep the crank gears aligned. My alternative was to bend the tip of a flat head screw driver to align the gears without removing all of that. Done it a couple times now. A little bit of a b**** but not as bad as pulling the tank and cover. There is a matching round hole through the gears along with the threaded/oblong hole for the bolt. Pretty sure I used the matching round holes to force alignment against the springs in the gear.
 
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Charles1111

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Final Step - Posting about this guide!
If you found this guide useful please post and let me know. Not only does that show its usefulness, but it also bumps the post for other members to see and maybe we can save them some time and $$$ too!

If you need further help please post below.
If you see an error, mistake or something out of order or missing please let us know so it can be corrected.
Note: No claim of accuracy is made. The above is a guide based off my personal machine.


Man I really need some help. I took my p1000 to dealership to get fixed and I put new clutches in it new sensors. It won’t do a clutch relearn and only has 1st 3rd 5th gear. It goes in 2nd 4th and 6th but that go neutral. I’m lost now please help anyone
 
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Eltobgi

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Man I really need some help. I took my p1000 to dealership to get fixed and I put new clutches in it new sensors. It won’t do a clutch relearn and only has 1st 3rd 5th gear. It goes in 2nd 4th and 6th but that go neutral. I’m lost now please help anyone
Your post is confusing! You say you brought it to the dealership to get fixed and then you said YOU put new clutches in it new sensors????? So which is it did you do the work or did the dealership? If it was the dealership they should take care of it!
 
snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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Man I really need some help. I took my p1000 to dealership to get fixed and I put new clutches in it new sensors. It won’t do a clutch relearn and only has 1st 3rd 5th gear. It goes in 2nd 4th and 6th but that go neutral. I’m lost now please help anyone
Sounds like the seals might be damaged or missing for the 2-4-6 clutch pack.
 
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Cummins_sxe

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Awesome write up, Thanks

Does anyone knows if by now someone started making the clutches by itself instead of buying the whole basket?

Is the Talon clutch pack better than pioneer and would it fit?

Upload 2019 8 14 15 2 22


Upload 2019 8 14 15 1 17
 
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CumminsPusher

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snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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Are they gonna sell them?
I just want a spare set but just the friction and steels
Look on ebay. I've bought several over the years. They came out of totaled machines. Just make sure the basket is not black from heat. The outer steel plate is also stamped with a number to identify it thickness to make the clearances correct from variables in the plates and hub machining.
 
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Are they gonna sell them?
I just want a spare set but just the friction and steels

There is a spec for clearance on the clutches when installed in the basket.

If you were to look at the end plate (thick outer piece on clutch assembly) you'll see a number. That number corresponds to different thicknesses of that plate. Honda was going to sell the clutch fibers and steels separate and then you could measure the clearance with the original outer plate. If needed you would order the necessary outer plate to adjust the clearance within specifications.

Since the dont make the outer plates available, there is no way to set the clearance if you replaced the fibers/steels. This is most likely the reason no one has stepped up and made the clutch parts separately.
 
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Cummins_sxe

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Look on ebay. I've bought several over the years. They came out of totaled machines. Just make sure the basket is not black from heat. The outer steel plate is also stamped with a number to identify it thickness to make the clearances correct from variables in the plates and hub machining.

The eBay idea is good I’ll keep an eye for them thanks
 
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Cummins_sxe

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There is a spec for clearance on the clutches when installed in the basket.

If you were to look at the end plate (thick outer piece on clutch assembly) you'll see a number. That number corresponds to different thicknesses of that plate. Honda was going to sell the clutch fibers and steels separate and then you could measure the clearance with the original outer plate. If needed you would order the necessary outer plate to adjust the clearance within specifications.

Since the dont make the outer plates available, there is no way to set the clearance if you replaced the fibers/steels. This is most likely the reason no one has stepped up and made the clutch parts separately.

Thanks that makes total sense, I rebuild auto trans for a living and it would be so easy to just replace the frictions and steels.
In theory if they make the clutches precise to the same oem measurement the reaction plate should not have to change.
On the automatic transmission world you adjust the clearance with different thickness of steels not the reaction plate.
I can only hope lol someone figures it out

Thanks for your answers
 
CumminsPusher

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Thanks that makes total sense, I rebuild auto trans for a living and it would be so easy to just replace the frictions and steels.
In theory if they make the clutches precise to the same oem measurement the reaction plate should not have to change.
On the automatic transmission world you adjust the clearance with different thickness of steels not the reaction plate.
I can only hope lol someone figures it out

Thanks for your answers
I’m actually kind of surprised someone hadn’t tried to capitalize on issues they were having originally. To be honest after the update they have been solid. The machine can be locked in second to get out if it were to fail.
I’ve changed clutches a couple times while on the trail and it’s no fun but can be done in about an hour. Not exactly as friendly as a washed rig in the garage.
Not expecting to do that anymore, but if needed to you can swap 1,3,5 into 2,4,6 to get home quicker rather then locking into second, but bring minimum 1qt oil . I swapped all the stupid ass Allen’s to 10mm on the rear floorboard to ease field needs.
 
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Cummins_sxe

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I’m actually kind of surprised someone hadn’t tried to capitalize on issues they were having originally. To be honest after the update they have been solid. The machine can be locked in second to get out if it were to fail.
I’ve changed clutches a couple times while on the trail and it’s no fun but can be done in about an hour. Not exactly as friendly as a washed rig in the garage.
Not expecting to do that anymore, but if needed to you can swap 1,3,5 into 2,4,6 to get home quicker rather then locking into second, but bring minimum 1qt oil . I swapped all the stupid ass Allen’s to 10mm on the rear floorboard to ease field needs.

I hope I never need them specially since I have the Talon reverse gear but I like to be informed.

If anyone knows if the talon clutch pack would work and if it’s heavier duty, please let us know thanks
 
Adam490

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Don't know much about the DCT's so hoping you guys can help me out. I think it might be slipping going into 3rd? It doesn't seem to slip at all in Reverse, 1st, or 5th; just going into 3rd gear and it's very slight. How would only 3rd be slipping? Seems like that would be the least likely to slip? Again, sorry for my ignorance here!
 
CumminsPusher

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Don't know much about the DCT's so hoping you guys can help me out. I think it might be slipping going into 3rd? It doesn't seem to slip at all in Reverse, 1st, or 5th; just going into 3rd gear and it's very slight. How would only 3rd be slipping? Seems like that would be the least likely to slip? Again, sorry for my ignorance here!
I did notice it in third a bit more. Possibly because the r’s are up a bit. Not saying they are going but it’s a possibility
 
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Adam490

Adam490

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I did notice it in third a bit more. Possibly because the r’s are up a bit. Not saying they are going but it’s a possibility
That was my initial thought, but how would that one slip before the others? I would think it would be noticeable in 1st or reverse?
 
Adam490

Adam490

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Your feeling the 2nd to 3rd shift where the clutch is slipping the most.

If the unit gets hot I'll bet it takes a good bit of revs to pull from a stop in 1st or reverse.
That's what I was afraid of. How long does it usually take before they completely go?
 
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