P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Replacement - A How To Guide!

Tbeast

Tbeast

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Kind of a jerk move to sell something with a known problem, he was probably just leery. Thanks for posting I assume all good back to ripping up trails?
We're planning on going out next weekend but I'm a little worried cuz when I drained out the oil I got almost 2 gallons I think he over filled it trying to cover up the clutch issue but I don't see any leaks so hopefully it's ok seams to run great now !
 
CumminsPusher

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We're planning on going out next weekend but I'm a little worried cuz when I drained out the oil I got almost 2 gallons I think he over filled it trying to cover up the clutch issue but I don't see any leaks so hopefully it's ok seams to run great now !
Awesome that's good to hear!
 
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elkguide

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We're planning on going out next weekend but I'm a little worried cuz when I drained out the oil I got almost 2 gallons I think he over filled it trying to cover up the clutch issue but I don't see any leaks so hopefully it's ok seams to run great now !

Hope it's a great ride!
 
E

elkguide

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Just wrapped up replacing my R135 clutch using these instructions, BIG thank you for putting this together !!!


Even with all of the joking and picking that goes on around here,

there is actually some really helpful info too!
 
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KFC

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After replacing the clutch, noticed something I thought I'd share:
While the smoked clutch was still in, would have to rev the engine to ~2200rpms before any movement was noticeable. Now, motion begins before the tach even moves, IIRC ~1600rpms.
By far the most noticeable symptom of my clutch being bad was the huge "flare" shifting into 3rd at speed/under load, even more so than taking off from a stop in forward or reverse. New clutch = as good or better than when the machine was brand new.
 
CumminsPusher

CumminsPusher

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After replacing the clutch, noticed something I thought I'd share:
While the smoked clutch was still in, would have to rev the engine to ~2200rpms before any movement was noticeable. Now, motion begins before the tach even moves, IIRC ~1600rpms.
By far the most noticeable symptom of my clutch being bad was the huge "flare" shifting into 3rd at speed/under load, even more so than taking off from a stop in forward or reverse. New clutch = as good or better than when the machine was brand new.
Really glad to hear this helped and you’re back up and going. Keep updates if you would
 
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Fl-Cracker

Fl-Cracker

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This post was a life saver. Thank you.
Thanks to hogwaller I burnt my clutches.
Not really the way I wanted to spend $400 on my buggy. I’m back up and running. Took 2 1/2 hrs from pulling cover till putting cover back on and about an hour for plastics and floorboard.

34C4D527 75F7 4407 8279 300282F073C5 622536C1 F7F5 4EF0 94C0 71D53B7F74D3 AFE436E2 CB09 4D98 A29A B4DB96215034 DF2E6485 6B21 4656 BFC6 584244D8A754
 
joeymt33

joeymt33

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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Here’s the oil pick up which is probably OK but it still wouldn’t be a bad idea to check it for clutch fibers. I’ve heard of at least one case where the clutch fibers took out engine bearings.

Ad9c6b5f6182b8e10c05b731a673accc
 
Fl-Cracker

Fl-Cracker

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Here’s the oil pick up which is probably OK but it still wouldn’t be a bad idea to check it for clutch fibers. I’ve heard of at least one case where the clutch fibers took out engine bearings.

View attachment 101741
That looks a little involved. I knew I burnt them when I did it and loaded up right after so I hope I’m ok thanks for the info though.
 
joeymt33

joeymt33

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That looks a little involved. I knew I burnt them when I did it and loaded up right after so I hope I’m ok thanks for the info though.

It’s easier to do that stuff I think anyway then it is to do the clutches. The one in the oil pan is super easy.

If you changed the oil and put new filters in the transmission and engine it’s probably OK
 
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Stuckbuck

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May 9, 2018
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I have a question!
I noticed in the service manual, the final drive gear has the “cushion” gear on the outer portion. It shows a 6mm bolt needing to be installed to align the gears so the clutches can slide in. Then, once the clutch assembly is in, remove the 6mm bolt

I notice, if the whole rear cover isn’t removed,you can’t get to the gear to align it, but it’s not mentioned in your wright up.
I’m not saying I’m right, I’m wondering if I’m off for thinking there needs to be more tension in the cushion gear?
 
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