P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Replacement - A How To Guide!

[CumminsPusher]

Depends on how hard you are one the machine. If just cruising and not shifting much then quite awhile. If aggressive driving with frequent shifts then not long. Best bet is to run manual so it doesn’t shift automatically as much.
I’d feel it out for a bit and make sure it’s not just the feeling you have. You can lock it into second to get back home if needed. If it gets worse then bring it in ASAP. Engine and trans share fluids, even though it’s filtered it can cause issues.

 

[Admin]

 

[Adam490]

Depends on how hard you are one the machine. If just cruising and not shifting much then quite awhile. If aggressive driving with frequent shifts then not long. Best bet is to run manual so it doesn’t shift automatically as much.
I’d feel it out for a bit and make sure it’s not just the feeling you have. You can lock it into second to get back home if needed. If it gets worse then bring it in ASAP. Engine and trans share fluids, even though it’s filtered it can cause issues.

Thanks! I don't think they will warranty it so I'm going to pick up another clutch setup and swap it before I go to RRB in late Sept. I really need to ride some more to make sure it's actually slipping, but I'm about 99% sure it is. I got stuck in some nasty clay/gumbo mud and tried to reverse out, tires wouldn't spin so I got off the gas so I didn't torch the clutches but I think it got em.

 

[joeymt33]

Thanks! I don't think they will warranty it so I'm going to pick up another clutch setup and swap it before I go to RRB in late Sept. I really need to ride some more to make sure it's actually slipping, but I'm about 99% sure it is. I got stuck in some nasty clay/gumbo mud and tried to reverse out, tires wouldn't spin so I got off the gas so I didn't torch the clutches but I think it got em.

How long has it been since you changed oil? I would do this soon and closely inspect the transmission oil filter.

You could do a clutch re-learn and see if anything changes. May not help but it doesn’t cost anything so it’s worth a shot.

What’s the condition of the electrical system? If you have a bad battery and the voltage is low, there could be lazy shifting because of the low power going to the solenoid.

Has the clutch update been performed?

 

[Adam490]

Late 2018 with all TSB/recalls done. Dual batteries with an isolator, both about 6 months old. Only running a radio, two LED whips, and winch off the secondary. Funny you should say that about the oil because the service wrench just came on loading it on the trailer from the ATV park (this will be it's second service, changed everything at 20 hours). It's got just under 500 miles and 101 hours, but the hours are not true because I use it a lot with key on listening to music. Going to do the service this weekend and hopefully that is it. I don't have my hopes up though because I don't have that kind of luck with these things... Thanks again for the help guys

 

[joeymt33]

Late 2018 with all TSB/recalls done. Dual batteries with an isolator, both about 6 months old. Only running a radio, two LED whips, and winch off the secondary. Funny you should say that about the oil because the service wrench just came on loading it on the trailer from the ATV park (this will be it's second service, changed everything at 20 hours). It's got just under 500 miles and 101 hours, but the hours are not true because I use it a lot with key on listening to music. Going to do the service this weekend and hopefully that is it. I don't have my hopes up though because I don't have that kind of luck with these things... Thanks again for the help guys

Just try inspecting the trans filter very closely. If you can show some pictures all the way around. I seen a picture before of a trans filter it was dark on one side where the oil flow hits the filter and that is where a lot of the clutch material was collecting.

Earlier when you mentioned you were stuck, did you have the over temp light come on?

 

[Adam490]

Just try inspecting the trans filter very closely. If you can show some pictures all the way around. I seen a picture before of a trans filter it was dark on one side where the oil flow hits the filter and that is where a lot of the clutch material was collecting.

Earlier when you mentioned you were stuck, did you have the over temp light come on?

It came on when I was headed out of the trail, but the radiator was completely full of mud. Cut a beer can in half and used it to douse it in creek water and it stayed at 3 bars until I could get to the wash station about 10 minutes away. Went to two bars and never got hot again after, but it definitely hit the "turn me off dummy" light for about 3-5 minutes while I got out of the bad part of the trail. I'll take pics when I change oil this weekend

 

[joeymt33]

It came on when I was headed out of the trail, but the radiator was completely full of mud. Cut a beer can in half and used it to douse it in creek water and it stayed at 3 bars until I could get to the wash station about 10 minutes away. Went to two bars and never got hot again after, but it definitely hit the "turn me off dummy" light for about 3-5 minutes while I got out of the bad part of the trail. I'll take pics when I change oil this weekend

Thanks for being honest....the outlook isn’t good

 

[Adam490]

Thanks for being honest....the outlook isn’t good

Nope, fingers crossed

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Nope, fingers crossed

Is it revving during the shift or lazy?

 

[Adam490]

Is it revving during the shift or lazy?

I want to say it happens right when it shifts into 3rd.

 

[Adam490]

Update: today is the first day I've driven it since I thought it was slipping. Took the stock skid off, cleaned everything under there, then rode to my buddies house on the other side of the neighborhood. Hammered on her once she was warmed up and she grabbed every gear with no hesitation.

 

[munkeybiznez]

I’m having an issue where my p1k is revving during the shift, is this an indication that I need to replace clutches?

 

[ohanacreek]

I’m having an issue where my p1k is revving during the shift, is this an indication that I need to replace clutches?

have you had the clutch update performed?


P1000 - VERIFIED - Official Pioneer 1000 Clutch Update!

 

[CumminsPusher]

I’m having an issue where my p1k is revving during the shift, is this an indication that I need to replace clutches?

Possibly. Check to see you’ve got good voltage and battery is up to par during operation, check oil and as @ohanacreek said you might want to do the clutch reset.

 

[Fl-Cracker]

I’m having an issue where my p1k is revving during the shift, is this an indication that I need to replace clutches?

Depends when it’s reving

 

[P1K5Dave]

I did this last week to my '18 Pioneer 1000. It took me closer to six hours, but I took apart the valve body and checked the screens, cleaned the solenoids, etc. I was getting both AT and MT lights on full-time, and it would not initialize, so I went a little deeper while I was in there.

A few notes from my experience:

The two nylon rings on the shaft are not mentioned in the initial parts list! I noticed that someone mentioned it a while back, and it was acknowledged to be missing, but it has not been added to the parts list. I didn't have new ones as a result, but I did put it back together and run with the older ones. They looked in decent shape.

Also, I'd recommend marking or otherwise familiarizing yourself with the front/back clutch packs and the gears that go into them. Following the method in the instructions suggests that one just remember up/down by what you did last, and that can get lost in your head quickly. Especially since you may find yourself removing them and starting over a few times while trying to re-assemble and get it all the way in. The gear on the inside clutch pack tends to wiggle itself out while installing.

The service manual does not give a torque spec for the 8 clutch cover bolts, but it does specify 10 ft lbs for the valve body cover, and the general spec for 6mm flange bolts in the manual is 9 lbs, so you can figure 9-10 lbs will be good.

Overall, not too bad of a job to DIY. As mentioned, the hardest part is getting the assembly back in all the way. It took me about 4 times of removing and starting over. I could probably do it in 2-3 hours next time.

Thanks for the instructions @CumminsPusher !

 

[ohanacreek]

I did this last week to my '18 Pioneer 1000. It took me closer to six hours, but I took apart the valve body and checked the screens, cleaned the solenoids, etc. I was getting both AT and MT lights on full-time, and it would not initialize, so I went a little deeper while I was in there.

A few notes from my experience:

The two nylon rings on the shaft are not mentioned in the initial parts list! I noticed that someone mentioned it a while back, and it was acknowledged to be missing, but it has not been added to the parts list. I didn't have new ones as a result, but I did put it back together and run with the older ones. They looked in decent shape.

Also, I'd recommend marking or otherwise familiarizing yourself with the front/back clutch packs and the gears that go into them. Following the method in the instructions suggests that one just remember up/down by what you did last, and that can get lost in your head quickly. Especially since you may find yourself removing them and starting over a few times while trying to re-assemble and get it all the way in. The gear on the inside clutch pack tends to wiggle itself out while installing.

The service manual does not give a torque spec for the 8 clutch cover bolts, but it does specify 10 ft lbs for the valve body cover, and the general spec for 6mm flange bolts in the manual is 9 lbs, so you can figure 9-10 lbs will be good.

Overall, not too bad of a job to DIY. As mentioned, the hardest part is getting the assembly back in all the way. It took me about 4 times of removing and starting over. I could probably do it in 2-3 hours next time.

Thanks for the instructions @CumminsPusher !

I believe to torque spec is incorrect.

you will want to convert both the NM and in/lb shown and use the lesser of the two (meaning whichever is physically less not a lower number in the manual).

 

[P1K5Dave]

It's actually printed in ft lbs in the service manual, so I'm not sure why you're talking about converting NM and in/lb (?)

Pg 11-48 in the service manual addresses the control body bolts. 11-50 refers to the clutch cover, but does not give any torque numbers.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

It's actually printed in ft lbs in the service manual, so I'm not sure why you're talking about converting NM and in/lb (?)

Pg 11-48 in the service manual addresses the control body bolts. 11-50 refers to the clutch cover, but does not give any torque numbers.

I believe the '16 manual showed 12 nm or 10 ft lbs. 12nm is 8.85 ft lbs. I stretched several of the soft honda bolts at 10 ft lbs.

 

[ohanacreek]

I believe the '16 manual showed 12 nm or 10 ft lbs. 12nm is 8.85 ft lbs. I stretched several of the soft honda bolts at 10 ft lbs.

I have the 16’ manual and it shows both I don’t remember the numbers