How to Quiet Down the Click During Shifts

[russknight]

Is THIS the right stuff?

 

[Admin]

 

[Cobweb]

I used Mobil 1 10W30 just as in the motor. This is what quieted down my clicking.

 

[CID]

Is THIS the right stuff?

I found this on about the third page of Questions (below) - so I'd say 'no' but that's simply my opinion. I want to try Shockproof but I'll need more than a color (mentioned earlier) before I'll feel comfortable ordering it. The few pages of Shockproof I've looked at online don't mention viscosity, I wonder why that is?

My issue is that both the Pioneer and Talon have potential problems shifting into low range when cold, a heavier viscosity will only make that worse. One of the times mine had trouble shifting into low, it was 80* at the trailhead, so not all that cold.


Question:
Can anyone tell me this oil‘s viscosity? Is it 85/140 ?
Answer:
85 when engine cold, ,140 when warm to hot.
By Michael A. Helton on April 11, 2018

 

[PaulF]

Is THIS the right stuff?

Absolutely NOT for the engine or sub trans. Redline specifically says it is simply Heavy Shockproof (but with a different label).

ShockProof is not classified in weights. It comes in 3 "flavors" and their description is a little confusing. They describe it in "Film Thickness" (How thick it stays on the parts) and what the fluid friction (how it compares to viscosity of conventional oil weights) is like.

1. Heavy - Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90. This means it remains on the parts as if it were similar 75W250 and is similar to 75W90 in viscosity. This is probably acceptable in the front and rear diffs but too thick for the sub trans.
2. Lightweight - Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W140, yet low fluid friction like 80W gear oil or 30W motor oil. This means it remains on the parts as if it were similar 75W140 and is similar to 80W gear or 30W motor oils in viscosity. This MIGHT be acceptable in the sub trans in warmer climates but since it does not say it acts like a multi viscosity, it will probably cause cold shift problems.
3. SuperLight - Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W90, yet low fluid friction like ATF. This means it remains on the parts as if it were similar 75W90 and is similar to ATF in viscosity. If this is actually true, it would be ideal for the sub trans. Protection like 75W90 gear oil with an ATF viscosity??? Maybe I will try some and see if it makes the sub trans shift better or blow up???

If their descriptions are true, ShockProof somehow maintains a thicker film with a thinner oil. Some pretty big claims but many swear by this stuff. Personally, I have never tried it (yet).

 

[fartsalot]

Absolutely NOT for the engine or sub trans. Redline specifically says it is simply Heavy Shockproof (but with a different label).

ShockProof is not classified in weights. It comes in 3 "flavors" and their description is a little confusing. They describe it in "Film Thickness" (How thick it stays on the parts) and what the fluid friction (how it compares to viscosity of conventional oil weights) is like.

1. Heavy - Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90. This means it remains on the parts as if it were similar 75W250 and is similar to 75W90 in viscosity. This is probably acceptable in the front and rear diffs but too thick for the sub trans.
2. Lightweight - Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W140, yet low fluid friction like 80W gear oil or 30W motor oil. This means it remains on the parts as if it were similar 75W140 and is similar to 80W gear or 30W motor oils in viscosity. This MIGHT be acceptable in the sub trans in warmer climates but since it does not say it acts like a multi viscosity, it will probably cause cold shift problems.
3. SuperLight - Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W90, yet low fluid friction like ATF. This means it remains on the parts as if it were similar 75W90 and is similar to ATF in viscosity. If this is actually true, it would be ideal for the sub trans. Protection like 75W90 gear oil with an ATF viscosity??? Maybe I will try some and see if it makes the sub trans shift better or blow up???

If their descriptions are true, ShockProof somehow maintains a thicker film with a thinner oil. Some pretty big claims but many swear by this stuff. Personally, I have never tried it (yet).

I use it in my Harley trans and my talon,,, works for me in both machines. It clings to my funnel when I pour it in the trans if that helps and I figure it does the same with the gears. I also use it to lube specific parts on all my guns and I find that it clings to the moving parts.

 

[PaulF]

I use it in my Harley trans and my talon,,, works for me in both machines. It clings to my funnel when I pour it in the trans if that helps and I figure it does the same with the gears. I also use it to lube specific parts on all my guns and I find that it clings to the moving parts.

Please be a lot more specific, there are 3 different flavors of "it" and there are 4 places to use oil in your Talon.

Please define "it". Do you mean Heavy, Lightweight or SuperLight?
Please specify where you use it in your Talon. Engine/Transmission, Sub Trans, Front/Rear Diffs?

 

[fartsalot]

Please be a lot more specific, there are 3 different flavors of "it" and there are 4 places to use oil in your Talon.

Please define "it". Do you mean Heavy, Lightweight or SuperLight?
Please specify where you use it in your Talon. Engine/Transmission, Sub Trans, Front/Rear Diffs?

I looked on the label and there is nothing defining the weight of the oil. I know for certain the oil is only good for the sub trani or the front and rear gear box's. Give them a call and verify the info you need 707.745.6100 www.redlineoil.com

 

[PaulF]

I looked on the label and there is nothing defining the weight of the oil. I know for certain the oil is only good for the sub trani or the front and rear gear box's. Give them a call and verify the info you need 707.745.6100 www.redlineoil.com

Redline only defines one of the ShockProof products by weight, the others are Heavy, Lightweight and SuperLight. They make 4 different "flavors" under 5 different labels...

1. 80W MOTORCYCLE GEAR OIL WITH SHOCKPROOF
2. V-TWIN TRANSMISSION OIL WITH SHOCKPROOF (This is the same as "HEAVY SHOCKPROOF" in a different labeled bottle)
3. HEAVY SHOCKPROOF
4. LIGHTWEIGHT SHOCKPROOF
5. SUPERLIGHT SHOCKPROOF

Which one do you use (or post a pic of the label)?

 

[Motor1]

I've read a reference or two on here about this, but thought I would add a specific topic.

After running the standard Honda GN-4 oil in the Sub-Trans for 1,700 miles, I switched to a full synthetic (not mentioning brand to avoid another oil debate). I was amazed how much quieter the shifts were. The click is still there, but probably 80% reduced.

Another reference, I was already running full synthetic in the engine and DCT, but this had no affect on the shifting sound.

Just thought I'd pass this along as it really surprised me.

without debate, I would like to know the synthetic oil you are running. you can pm me to keep the debate out of it.
Thanks

 

[DAJO]

I looked on the label and there is nothing defining the weight of the oil. I know for certain the oil is only good for the sub trani or the front and rear gear box's. Give them a call and verify the info you need 707.745.6100 www.redlineoil.com

The label on the shock proof oil is clearly labeled heavy weight, light weight, superlight. No numbers are on the bottle. So what does the label say?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I have a feeling he is using the V-Twin transmission oil in his subtrans. So that would be heavy shockproof........

I could see running heavy shockproof in the subtrans and lightweight in the diffs, especially for racing purposes. I'll probably go that route in my racecar once spring rolls around. It gets stupid hot here in Texas in the summer months and 80/90 gear oil becomes water.

 

[PaulF]

I have a feeling he is using the V-Twin transmission oil in his subtrans. So that would be heavy shockproof........

I could see running heavy shockproof in the subtrans and lightweight in the diffs, especially for racing purposes. I'll probably go that route in my racecar once spring rolls around. It gets stupid hot here in Texas in the summer months and 80/90 gear oil becomes water.

I think I will go the other way around.

Riding in Utah and first hand experience of how hard it is to get in low when cold with 10W30, Lightweight (similar to straight 30 weight) may be too thick for me and where/how I ride so SuperLight with the "ATF like" viscosity might be ideal for the sub trans in winter. Maybe Lightweight in the summer here.

Heavy at 75/250 with "75/90 like" viscosity will be ideal in the diffs in my opinion.

Not much riding for me ATM so I will change them all in the spring.

 

[DAJO]

I think I will go the other way around.

Riding in Utah and first hand experience of how hard it is to get in low when cold with 10W30, Lightweight (similar to straight 30 weight) may be too thick for me and where/how I ride so SuperLight with the "ATF like" viscosity might be ideal for the sub trans in winter. Maybe Lightweight in the summer here.

Heavy at 75/250 with "75/90 like" viscosity will be ideal in the diffs in my opinion.

Not much riding for me ATM so I will change them all in the spring.

Exactly what I am going to do on my R.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I think I will go the other way around.

Riding in Utah and first hand experience of how hard it is to get in low when cold with 10W30, Lightweight (similar to straight 30 weight) may be too thick for me and where/how I ride so SuperLight with the "ATF like" viscosity might be ideal for the sub trans in winter. Maybe Lightweight in the summer here.

Heavy at 75/250 with "75/90 like" viscosity will be ideal in the diffs in my opinion.

Not much riding for me ATM so I will change them all in the spring.

I recieved a few Amazon gift cards for Christmas so I ordered 4qts of Heavy Shockproof for the diffs and 4qts of Lightweight Shockproof for the sub trans earlier this afternoon. Racing starts in February so the Lightweight Shockproof in the sub trans will be perfect. Once the Texas summer starts and the ambient temp is 100+ degrees here I will swap the sub trans oil over to Heavy Shockproof.

 

[DAJO]

Mine had a horrible gear whine from the front when 4WD was engaged, try changing your tire pressure. The front gear ratio is slightly different, try running 16psi front & 13-14psi rear, it will help. I also changed the front diff oil to Redline Shockproof. The combination of those 2 changes made the noise almost disappear.

FYI, changing to Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil made the front whine worse 🤷‍♂️

I was really looking forward to doing this on my noisy R. I put Redline medium weight in front drive and changed tire pressure to 13psi front and 9psi read. I can't tell any difference in noise with four wheel engaged. I do have the stock tires so maybe some difference there. I was really hoping for some improvement.

 

[CID]

I was really looking forward to doing this on my noisy R. I put Redline medium weight in front drive and changed tire pressure to 13psi front and 9psi read. I can't tell any difference in noise with four wheel engaged. I do have the stock tires so maybe some difference there. I was really hoping for some improvement.

I'd rather it didn't whine so loud in i4WD but it does, so do many others. So instead of using it like AWD (engaged most of the time), I'm in and out of 4WD repeatedly and the whine lets me know it. I'm not willing to run less air pressure in the rear than the front, that's backwards in my mind (although I'll probably try it next season).

Since so many do it, I'll have to accept that it's the nature of the beast, not causing any damage and is caused by Honda's choice of gear profile. I'm wearing earplugs anyway because of the overall mechanical noise being painful to me so I'll get over it, someday. It's still better than a CVT by a whole bunch - my affordable trophy truck shifter kart. 😍

 

[russknight]

I know this is the Talon forum, but I want to share my experience with the Shockproof oils just for information. I put Lightweight Shockproof in my sub trans and it may have quieted it just a tad. I put Heavy Shockproof in my rear diff and can't tell any difference. So, IMO, it isn't worth the trouble or expense.

 

[Cobweb]

Use Mobile 1 5W30 in sub trans, same as engine. The clicking will virtually go away.

 

[BrianM]

Use Mobile 1 5W30 in sub trans, same as engine. The clicking will virtually go away.

I don't know about the sub trans but the main transmission shares oil with the engine just like a motorcycle engine. Oils like Mobil 1 have additives like moly to make them more 'slippery'. This is great for engines in general but can cause clutch plate slippage in transmissions. For that reason I use Rotella T6 oil for my engine/transmission. Before I bought my Talon I used to have a Yamaha 450 dirt bike. I tried both Mobile 1 and Rotella T6 on it and could definitely tell that I had less clutch grab with the Mobile 1 oil. I assume that the clutch was slipping a bit more with the Mobile 1. It probably wasn't wearing it any worse since even though it was slipping some it was probably slippier so it was a wash.
Bottom line, the Mobile 1 oil doesn't have the correct SAE designation (JASO MA) and the Rotella T6 does. The important things to me are the JASO MA spec and I want a full synthetic oil. Lots of other oils meet these criteria also but then you look at price and see that many are way expensive and I can't see any additional benefit that they offer.

 

[IDIOT]

I don't know about the sub trans but the main transmission shares oil with the engine just like a motorcycle engine. Oils like Mobil 1 have additives like moly to make them more 'slippery'. This is great for engines in general but can cause clutch plate slippage in transmissions. For that reason I use Rotella T6 oil for my engine/transmission. Before I bought my Talon I used to have a Yamaha 450 dirt bike. I tried both Mobile 1 and Rotella T6 on it and could definitely tell that I had less clutch grab with the Mobile 1 oil. I assume that the clutch was slipping a bit more with the Mobile 1. It probably wasn't wearing it any worse since even though it was slipping some it was probably slippier so it was a wash.
Bottom line, the Mobile 1 oil doesn't have the correct SAE designation (JASO MA) and the Rotella T6 does. The important things to me are the JASO MA spec and I want a full synthetic oil. Lots of other oils meet these criteria also but then you look at price and see that many are way expensive and I can't see any additional benefit that they offer.

Mobil1 4t is the correct oil for the engine/trans as it is Jaso MA2 cert.