How to Quiet Down the Click During Shifts

Dirtstiffs-1000

Dirtstiffs-1000

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41pjlPZVwLL AC SY580

97142a3f 0a5d 4e5c 9d8e e66b957a58bb1a8daa82e47be9a4b56710dd90eab5e9

This is the only Mobil 1 synthetic you should be using in the engine with wet clutches.

I also use it in the sub trans.
I use Mobil 1 Full synthetic 75w140 in the differentials.

As Tech stated you can run the flavor of choice in the subtrans.
 
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BrianM

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Mobil1 4t is the correct oil for the engine/trans as it is Jaso MA2 cert.
Thanks for letting me know about mobile 1 racing oil...which I didn't know about. Also somehow I ended up on page 3 of the thread and thought I was at the beginning, so looking back a couple of pages I basically contributed nothing anyway!
 
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Cobweb

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I don't know about the sub trans but the main transmission shares oil with the engine just like a motorcycle engine. Oils like Mobil 1 have additives like moly to make them more 'slippery'. This is great for engines in general but can cause clutch plate slippage in transmissions. For that reason I use Rotella T6 oil for my engine/transmission. Before I bought my Talon I used to have a Yamaha 450 dirt bike. I tried both Mobile 1 and Rotella T6 on it and could definitely tell that I had less clutch grab with the Mobile 1 oil. I assume that the clutch was slipping a bit more with the Mobile 1. It probably wasn't wearing it any worse since even though it was slipping some it was probably slippier so it was a wash.
Bottom line, the Mobile 1 oil doesn't have the correct SAE designation (JASO MA) and the Rotella T6 does. The important things to me are the JASO MA spec and I want a full synthetic oil. Lots of other oils meet these criteria also but then you look at price and see that many are way expensive and I can't see any additional benefit that they offer.
Ok I agree about the engine. However the sub trans will be fine with non-JASO MA oil since the clutches are in the transmission. I don't have a good handle on why, but putting the Mobile 1 in the sub trans quiets the clicks. However, It doesn't change the sound with Mobile 1 in the engine.
 
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Maje1

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I know this is an old thread, hopefully someone will be willing to reply to me…

Doing my first sub trans service at 1400mi on my 2022 Pioneer 1000-5.

Kind of torn between running redline lightweight shockproof or Honda HP4M 10W-30 w/ moly.

Weather in wisconsin is 70-90°F in summer that I ride mostly. In winter, 15-30°F is what I ride in mostly, sometimes a bit colder.

Those of you that run lightweight shockproof - in what conditions? How many miles have you ran it? Is it Ok for cold weather as I mentioned above?

Those that run HP4M 10W-30 with moly, does this quiet down the sub trans? I assume it’s safe in all conditions as the weight is the same as mfg recommendations.
 
CID

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I know this is an old thread, hopefully someone will be willing to reply to me…

Doing my first sub trans service at 1400mi on my 2022 Pioneer 1000-5.

Kind of torn between running redline lightweight shockproof or Honda HP4M 10W-30 w/ moly.

Weather in wisconsin is 70-90°F in summer that I ride mostly. In winter, 15-30°F is what I ride in mostly, sometimes a bit colder.

Those of you that run lightweight shockproof - in what conditions? How many miles have you ran it? Is it Ok for cold weather as I mentioned above?

Those that run HP4M 10W-30 with moly, does this quiet down the sub trans? I assume it’s safe in all conditions as the weight is the same as mfg recommendations.
The 'noise' is how the DCT works, nothing is wrong or malfunctioning. I have a Talon and I find the thing mechanically noisy to the point that I won't drive it without hearing protection, either muffs or foam ear plugs. If I forget the plugs, even with my helmet, I stop and put them in (I have a jar of 50 that live in the cup holder).

When I first got it, I thought - 'this doesn't sound right and won't last long term'. Now, with hearing protection, I feel it more than hear it and smile at the wizardry that makes the thing work so perfectly.

Background - I'm a mechanically sympathetic DIY, lifelong mechanic because - 1. I can't afford to pay others to do the maintenance. 2. I don't trust anyone to do it properly. 3. I have 13,3xx miles with few problems, none with the DCT. I've been running the HP4 with moly for ~10k miles. The problems I've had - brake pads on all 4 corners, rear wheel bearings, and the LR inner CV joint.

To repeat, the shift click/klunk is how it works, worry about something else.

In colder temps, I recommend that you cover 'some' of your radiator, enough that the fan cycles regularly, ensuring that you're getting your oil up to operating temperature so that the condensation will burn off. If there's frost (water) on the outside of your engine, you can rest assured that there's also frost on the inside. The 1000 cc Talons and Pioneers don't like short runs that don't get the engine up to operating temperature, so try to always get it up to temp. If you don't, plug fouling is a possibility.
 
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DRZRon1

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The 'noise' is how the DCT works, nothing is wrong or malfunctioning. I have a Talon and I find the thing mechanically noisy to the point that I won't drive it without hearing protection, either muffs or foam ear plugs. If I forget the plugs, even with my helmet, I stop and put them in (I have a jar of 50 that live in the cup holder).

When I first got it, I thought - 'this doesn't sound right and won't last long term'. Now, with hearing protection, I feel it more than hear it and smile at the wizardry that makes the thing work so perfectly.

Background - I'm a mechanically sympathetic DIY, lifelong mechanic because - 1. I can't afford to pay others to do the maintenance. 2. I don't trust anyone to do it properly. 3. I have 13,3xxk miles with few problems, none with the DCT. I've been running the HP4 with moly for ~10k miles. The problems I've had - brake pads on all 4 corners, rear wheel bearings, and the LR inner CV joint.

To repeat, the shift click/klunk is how it works, worry about something else.

In colder temps, I recommend that you cover 'some' of your radiator, enough that the fan cycles regularly, ensuring that you're getting your oil up to operating temperature so that the condensation will burn off. If there's frost (water) on the outside of your engine, you can rest assured that there's also frost on the inside. The 1000 cc Talons and Pioneers don't like short runs that don't get the engine up to operating temperature, so try to always get it up to temp. If you don't, plug fouling is a possibility.
kudos - it’s like having a 2 stroke dirt bike and having to quiet down the braaaap, braaaap, braaaaap!!!!
 
Remington

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I know this is an old thread, hopefully someone will be willing to reply to me…

Doing my first sub trans service at 1400mi on my 2022 Pioneer 1000-5.

Kind of torn between running redline lightweight shockproof or Honda HP4M 10W-30 w/ moly.

Weather in wisconsin is 70-90°F in summer that I ride mostly. In winter, 15-30°F is what I ride in mostly, sometimes a bit colder.

Those of you that run lightweight shockproof - in what conditions? How many miles have you ran it? Is it Ok for cold weather as I mentioned above?

Those that run HP4M 10W-30 with moly, does this quiet down the sub trans? I assume it’s safe in all conditions as the weight is the same as mfg recommendations.
What @CID & @DRZRon1 said. Or buy a stock Bronco lol.

Any 10-30 with moly will do
 
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HBarlow

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CID

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Since we’re off topic already, you guys running 80/90 in your diffs or 75/140? Lol
Since I'm not an engineer, I listen to Honda's specs, so I'm running 75/90 or thereabouts. 140 sounds like unnecessary drag to me.
 
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Smitty335

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Ever go to one of those fancy Italian restaurants where you dip the bread in olive oil & some sort of green weeds......dat chit is good!
That and seared Scallops I'm primed for the main course!
 
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Smitty335

Smitty335

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Ever go to one of those fancy Italian restaurants where you dip the bread in olive oil & some sort of green weeds......dat chit is good!
That's Olive Oil, Balsamic Vinegar and Italian Herbs, good stuff!
 
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