Hondasxs
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Great.Method 1 works! Thanks for the help!
Thanks for update.
Great.Method 1 works! Thanks for the help!
This will be fine to power the illumination or for relay control. It will even be fine for smaller draw accessories without a relay.View attachment 31002
I am in the process of wire in on my lights up right now, I want to tap in to the key on power wire that's black-and-white like Hondasxs said and wanted to know if I can pigtail all the switches to that one wire. Not to power my accessories but my switches Will be lit up when the side-by-side is on. Does anyone know of a reason why you cannot pigtail all the switches to that one wire just for illumination purposes
Thanks a lot!This will be fine to power the illumination or for relay control. It will even be fine for smaller draw accessories without a relay.
does this work?Ok, lights are finished. For the reverse lights, I wanted to be able to have the back up lights come on ONLY if the headlights were on and the unit was in reverse, OR, if I manually switched them on to use as work lights while loading a trailer, etc. So I used the back up alarm wiring harness, tapped into the green wire to ground the 30 amp relay when the buggy is put into reverse, that wire goes to terminal 86 on the relay. Terminal 85 on the relay goes to a tap into the brown wire noted above, only hot when the headlights are on. Terminal 87 goes to an un-switched output on my Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse block. Terminal 30 goes to the back up lights. So, if I am in "stealth mode" (no headlights), if I reverse no lights come on. If I have headlights on, and go to reverse, the backup lights light up.
To accomplish the manual override, I wired the switch on the dash to pull power from the fuse block (an un-switched, always hot terminal, since I want to be able to use the back up lights as work lights without the key being on), and ran the wire from the switch to the wire coming from terminal 30, between the relay and the back up lights. (BTW, the back up lights are grounded directly to the frame). So pushing the dash switch turns the back up lights on as work lights.
Seems like it's going to work. If I keep leaving the work lights on and running the battery down when parking the buggy, I will move the feed wire to a switched outlet on the PC-8. But I doubt I do that, I should only need the lights when it's dark....
And I can't say enough good about Eastern Beaver and the PC-8. I will try to post up pics later, after I clean up the rat's nest of wires, but the PC-8 is ultra reliable (used it on two different cycles going to Alaska) and the perfect size to fit in the little hole next to the air pre-filter.
Yes, works great. PM me if you need help.does this work?
View attachment 31002
I am in the process of wire in on my lights up right now, I want to tap in to the key on power wire that's black-and-white like Hondasxs said and wanted to know if I can pigtail all the switches to that one wire. Not to power my accessories but my switches Will be lit up when the side-by-side is on. Does anyone know of a reason why you cannot pigtail all the switches to that one wire just for illumination purposes
For the 1000-5Does Honda sell a acc wiring harness for wiring in aftermarket stuff
I want to know this too! Can't find this info anywhere!For the 1000-5
Calling all wiring experts!! I'm wanting to tackle my accessory wiring myself, but no real experience and somewhat intimidated messing with electrical. My plan is fairly simple compared to others I've seen on forum.
Front led light on bumper, 2 rear leds work lights, and two led interior lights. So I purchased a four gang marine switch plate to accommodate my needs so like some help with wiring. Switch plate has 2 battery leads with 15amp fuse leads for two switchs and outlet each side ( see wire diagram below) my question is do I spice each red lead into battery direct or black and white power on accessory leads? The blue and yellow and black wires on switch plate are all grounds so I assume I can tie those together and ground in frame or back to battery.
Run power wires from accessories to each switch and ground to frame or buss.
Hopefully you smart guys can help me out and advise me on how to tackle my project.
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Thanks. I too think I need a relay just to be safe.IMHO, it's up to you. The LED lights shouldn't draw enough amperage to require a relay, so you would probably be okay taking those leads to either the battery or the accessory wire. Personally, I almost always use a relay for lights as they can be on for an extended period of time, and I would not want to blow a fuse and have to rely on the stock lights. YMMV.
According to Honda Accessory Instructions. Here is the recommended location for Key On Power for the Honda Pioneer 1000 Side by Side!
Honda suggest tapping the 15A Acc Fuse on the output side. Here you will find 2 WHITE with a BLACK STRIPE wires coming out of the output side of the fuse. You will need to untape the wire bunch to access them. It is recommended that you use a posi-tap (not shown) vs the wire tap-ins (shown) for a better error free connection.
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