brettc
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
@mlynch001 Can't believe I've never seen your build thread before, what a story!
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Im new here. Just purchased a pioneer. I’ve never posted a “build”. I’ve been very busy the last 2 months. Constant work. But very happy with the results. Very happy with the Pioneer!
Yes. Made the cab 25% quieter on a conservative estimate. Also cut heat down. Which is not great where I’m from. But the noise reduction was worth more to me then heat as I installed a heater core system that works amazing
brettc
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
@robdaigle This is the build thread for mlynch001, that is who I was replying to.
F
Is this the one with the clipboard under the console lid? Don't see it on TS website but I found one that looks the same on Amazon. TIA
Added Oil pressure and Coolant Temp Gauges to the dashboard. See the complete description of the process here:
hondasxs.com
P1000m5 - What did you add to/do with your Pioneer 1000 5 today?
Got my HondaSxS backup lights installed and wired. I wired in a 3-way switch so I can switch between reverse auto on, off and work light mode.
hondasxs.com
following and learning a ton.
considering the same System 3 SB4 Beadlock wheels and System 3 RT320 DOT 8 ply.
A: Curious how you are liking that set up so far and how they are holding up?
B: In post #40, you answered DIRISHMAN with a post that is helpful to me... My question is this (and i've researched here but i'm still a bit confused)
1 - I want same track front and rear, i also want same size wheel and tire all around so I can rotate as needed.
2 - What offset wheel do i need on all for corners and what size spacer in the rear to give me a stable ride and same track from the rear.
Notes:
- I don't really need a much wider track than factory, but i'm open to it if it makes sense (I assume huge spacers are not super kind to some suspension components?)
- I will likely consider SATV forward A arms but don't need a lift. (mostly a farm machine with occasional camping trips). (Will also add RC shocks once these are tired)
- Am adding frame gussets to the upper a arms as well - can't believe how weak this part of the design is.
2020 1000-5 Deluxe w/ Factory Wheels/Tires - just brought her home
considering the same System 3 SB4 Beadlock wheels and System 3 RT320 DOT 8 ply.
A: Curious how you are liking that set up so far and how they are holding up?
B: In post #40, you answered DIRISHMAN with a post that is helpful to me... My question is this (and i've researched here but i'm still a bit confused)
1 - I want same track front and rear, i also want same size wheel and tire all around so I can rotate as needed.
2 - What offset wheel do i need on all for corners and what size spacer in the rear to give me a stable ride and same track from the rear.
Notes:
- I don't really need a much wider track than factory, but i'm open to it if it makes sense (I assume huge spacers are not super kind to some suspension components?)
- I will likely consider SATV forward A arms but don't need a lift. (mostly a farm machine with occasional camping trips). (Will also add RC shocks once these are tired)
- Am adding frame gussets to the upper a arms as well - can't believe how weak this part of the design is.
2020 1000-5 Deluxe w/ Factory Wheels/Tires - just brought her home
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Glad I could be of some help.
Regarding the System 3 Wheels and tires. I like them very much. The tires are not that heavy when compared to stock, this is a major consideration on a Pioneer as heavy tires and wheels really hurt acceleration and braking performance.
These tires work well in a variety of terrain, they are not "mud tires" but work well on the trails we ride here in Arkansas. They clean quickly. They have good traction on rocks. I have about 1000+ miles on them so far, very little wear. I run 15 psi on any pavement and around the house, but air down on the trails. These things like and ride best at 10-12 lbs on rocky trails and seem to work well on soft stuff, like sand, at 6-8 psi; your results may be different. I made the mistake of running low pressure in rocks and got a minor pinch on one sidewall. I plugged this and never had any more problems. Keep in mind, we ARE NOT aggressive riders, so make sure you take this into consideration with this tire. If you do Aggressive rock riding, I would find a tire that has a tougher sidewall. These are 8 ply, but they are a "light" 8 ply tire. I wanted the lighter tire to conserve power and for better ride that the lighter sidewall offers. Again, If you are aggressive in the rocks, this might not be the tire for you.
One thing that I would say is make sure whoever mounts these needs to pay particular attention to not damage the beadlock side of the tire and properly assemble the bead lock ring. I bought a set already mounted and they did not do the best job in this respect. Bead leaks are pretty common on bead lock wheels until they get some time on them and seal. Bead lock and tire pressure maintenance is just part of the drill for me now.
To answer the part about wheel sizes and track, I made some measurements on mine with a set of "toe plates". My front track "loaded" is 62" (with 6+1 wheel) and the rear track is 64" with a (4+3 wheel). No spacers, I really despise spacers, they add load on the wheel bearings, change steering and suspension geometry and are an extra maintenance or failure point. This is personal opinion and experience, others may not agree. So, if you want the same track front and rear, It looks like a 5+2 wheel front and rear might come out perfect? Someone please chime in here and correct me if I am wrong. I would suggest that you measure your setup to get exact numbers and work from there. Adding a 5+2 up front will be the same as adding a 1 inch wheel spacer to each side, this will slightly affect the steering, but it would probably not be noticeable. Since the OEM rear wheel is 5+3, Using a 5+2 in the rear will be the same as taking 1 inch off the inside of the rim, but the rear track would remain the same. Check for clearance on the rear suspension and other parts. 5+2 should work, and give close to the same track front and rear; but I cannot be 100% sure of this.
Keep in mind that my machine also has a Stongmade 2" lift, this will make a difference from the stock geometry.
I cannot advise on suspension arms, no experience in that area. Many folks seem to like TTC arms. I have seem mixed reviews on the Super ATV, again, no experience in this area.
Beefing up that front upper arm attachment point is a good idea, especially if you are an aggressive rider. If you look at the 22-23 models you will see that the upper arms are now in double shear mounting front and rear. A much better design in my estimation.
While you are in there, I would suggest that you disassemble the collars and bushings on the various pivot points (Upper in the front and all of the outer pivots in the rear knuckle). My 2016 was absolutely dry, NO grease was applied by the factory at the time of assembly. All of my pivot bushings and collars were completely worn out at under 4000 miles, when I bought the machine. I could actually move the wheels and knuckles in and out, up and down as much as a half inch. The thing would clunk and rattle on rough roads, turns out the noise was the slack in these components. Ended up replacing all seals, bushings and collars and adding grease fittings to these pivot points.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions.
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@mlynch001
excellent write up and information.
Thank you so much!
my new to me 2020 is mostly a farm vehicle w/ some occasional camping trips and trail rides.
(my 2018 had a frame tear and a arm tab failures after a minor impact so i'm definitely wanting to strengthen the a arm areas)
Some others have also given me some good direction here, i'm trying to figure out the best way to go w/ offset/wheels/tires etc.
learning a lot.
Hoping to be able to rotate tires as needed for wear which is mostly driving my query.
it sounds like the 5+2 is a decent way to go and gives same track and be able to rotate.
Some really like the RB3 spacers and it seems for most, they are needed in the rear.
I'm of the same logic regarding extra load on the machine and would prefer not to have that.
also, am wanting as few failure points as possible.
perhaps 1.0-1.5" on the rear only isn't too much. not sure what others have experienced with spacers but i've read of occasional failures
at any rate, thanks again for the perspective.
excellent write up and information.
Thank you so much!
my new to me 2020 is mostly a farm vehicle w/ some occasional camping trips and trail rides.
(my 2018 had a frame tear and a arm tab failures after a minor impact so i'm definitely wanting to strengthen the a arm areas)
Some others have also given me some good direction here, i'm trying to figure out the best way to go w/ offset/wheels/tires etc.
learning a lot.
Hoping to be able to rotate tires as needed for wear which is mostly driving my query.
it sounds like the 5+2 is a decent way to go and gives same track and be able to rotate.
Some really like the RB3 spacers and it seems for most, they are needed in the rear.
I'm of the same logic regarding extra load on the machine and would prefer not to have that.
also, am wanting as few failure points as possible.
perhaps 1.0-1.5" on the rear only isn't too much. not sure what others have experienced with spacers but i've read of occasional failures
at any rate, thanks again for the perspective.
You are welcome, I do not believe you can have "too much" information before modifying a vehicle.
If you choose to go with spacers and use a High Quality spacer, such as the RB3, you will be fine. I just have an aversion to spacers, from my days of seeing wheel spacers used on "hot rod" cars. Quality spacers, thread locker and proper torque on bolts should eliminate problems.
My bead lock wheels added a level of maintenance, but they also add a much needed level of off road security, we ride alone most of the time. This was an acceptable trade off for me.
The 5+2 on front will have the same effect as a 1" front spacer. This will change the bump steer characteristics and suspension geometry, but again, this should not be a huge issue.
Having a wider machine will certainly help stability, this is a trade off that you may want to make. Make sure that you width is not in excess of any trails that you want to ride. Here in Arkansas we have many trails that have a 65" (I think) restriction. be aware of any such restrictions and if your modifications will limit your riding areas.
I disconnected and eventually removed the rear sway bar, this greatly helps articulation and ride at the expense of some cornering roll. Again, this is a compromise, trading one thing for another more desired characteristic.
We also chopped the roll cage about 4" and this lowered the CG slightly, mainly to offset the taller suspension and larger tires, again, a trade off.
If you have already had a frame tear, even on another similar vehicle, then I would say that would be the item of high priority. I can think of a half dozen times where I hit stuff and my butt drew up, thinking "There goes that upper arm mount. . . ." , but so far, I have been fortunate or my particular 2016 model is well put together.
Good luck to you. Please share what you do and your results!
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