New Talon Owners - First Things to Know and Check

[Hondasxs]

You're sure on the 36mm for the non s 2023? Pretty sure mine measured 34mm

Nope...
I had 2 people tell me 36mm.
No, I haven't personally verified.

Requesting hands on verification if anyone can check sometime.

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[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Maybe it is 34.

Looks like I was told 34 at one point also.

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[Hondasxs]

I'll start a thread to find out .

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[Hondasxs]

@Hondasxs ?

Yes. Confirmed 36mm nut for 2023 (not S models).
Lol
Thanks.

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[CID]

Somehow I got the impression that all 4 inner CVs on the Talon were the same part number, they most certainly are not.

Rear inboard, a regular, everyday CV joint -

What I learned when building 2 spare axles - You can install a rear CV on a front axle and you won't know it until you notice the boot won't fit on the CV, the axle spline and CV spline are the same and the circlip will snap into place like everything is hunky dory. 🤔 Now you have a fully assembled CV, full of grease that you have to take back apart to install the correct CV.

Also note that you can't buy a fully assembled axle assembly, front or rear, from Honda - you have to buy an axle, which comes with the outboard CV installed, and also buy an inboard CV that you'll get to fill with grease and install on the new axle. And then you'll still have to figure out how to clamp those damnable boot clamps - I bring mine to the dealer and they've broken two of the large Honda clamps. The inner boot, clamps, circlips and grease come with the axle.

Front inboard CV is clearly different (and smaller O.D.) and now we know what drives our wheel speed sensors, apparently they needed a mechanical system instead of a magnetic sensor. I can confirm that you can run a larger tire to get back to camp in an 'emergency'. I cut a sidewall 30 miles out and had to borrow a 32" tire to get back (I run 30's). I only used i4wd when absolutely necessary and the computer didn't seem to notice my transgression.

 

[CID]

This isn't a first things to know and check but I'm putting it here for future reference if I ever find myself needing to do clutch work.

Disclaimers - 1. Mud Puppy needs to drink less coffee. 2. This is a very basic overview and, since I've never done anything in this area, have no idea how accurate his information is (or how damaging it may be, you be the judge for yourself). 3. I think the first few minutes of this cover some very basic tips that will help me past some basic mistakes. 4. Any real mechanic will probably have a coronary trying to watch this, get over it, I'm not a real mechanic and need all the very basic tips I can find - don't like it, make a better one I can put here or post it here yourself. 5. YMMV, IMHO, yada yada yada

I'm not posting this to start a p!ssing match, I put it here so I can find it again.

 

[CID]

I added a sub trans disassembly video to the first post in this thread.

 

[CID]

I4WD light reset procedure -

 

[CID]

I just watched an Adrenalin Junkie video and there was a rare Talon appearance (there aren't many Talons in Canada). On this ride, there were many short and steep climbs - this Talon was upshifting at really bad moments, killing his momentum and frequently stalling the engine.

There's a simple solution to this unwanted upshift - use Manual mode, then the DCT can't upshift, to the point it'll let you bounce off the rev limiter. Note that it will still downshift, although at a much lower RPM, so much so that I've had to help with a downshift when the software waited too long for my comfort (and I'm a short shifter, so I'm used to low RPM).

Depending on how much you use Manual mode (rarely for me, but I paddle up a lot in Auto), you'll have to learn to remember to switch to Manual on steep climbs or your Talon will upshift, at just the wrong moment.

The guys were blaming an earlier submersion for the problem climbs but I think it was the ill timed DCT upshifts.

This is long but I enjoy his videos, watch it iffn you want -

 

[CID]

Driveshaft removal tips about the clip holding it in place.

I would also suggest buying a new clip for the install. The best way I’ve found to do it is to cut one side of the ear clip off and then pull it through the opposite way. Not only does it come out easy but it also helps clean out the groove for reinstalling the new one.

The only issue with cutting the ear off is if the other one comes off as well you're in a pickle. This is a last resort for us.

Clean the groove with lube and brake clean first and make sure the clip is moving.

Take the front 2 bolts out of the diff, take the nut off the bottom rear but leave the bolt in.

While opening the clip, pry backward on the front u joint to pull the driveshaft out of the diff. It doesn't need to come all the way out, just enough to clear the clip groove.

Then take the remaining diff bolt out and push it forward. Works like a charm.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Here is another driveshaft tip... unplug the sensors on the side of the 4wd clutch, remove the three bolts holding the clutch on, remove front diff bolts, slide diff forward and the driveshaft backwards and separate the clutch from the diff. Fish the assembly out from under the hood and deal with the clip on the bench instead of on the car. Reverse to install.

That's how I did it any time I had to remove the driveshaft for maintenance and it was easy peasy to do by myself.

*drain the front diff first!

 

[DRZRon1]

Here is another driveshaft tip... unplug the sensors on the side of the 4wd clutch, remove the three bolts holding the clutch on, remove front diff bolts, slide diff forward and the driveshaft backwards and separate the clutch from the diff. Fish the assembly out from under the hood and deal with the clip on the bench instead of on the car. Reverse to install.

That's how I did it any time I had to remove the driveshaft for maintenance and it was easy peasy to do by myself.

*drain the front diff first!

Genius

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Genius

Ya, I don't know if I'd call it that. 😆

 

[13965]

Hi CID, Great thread. I'm a new owner of a 2 seat Talon R, and would like to do your version of the Pre-filter mod. Like you have done, I'm interested in having the Uni mounted a couple inches above the rear fender/deck. In your pictures it appears the Uni stands pretty close to vertical, I do not want it to have any "lean" to it. However, looking at your picture of the 3" tube coming thru the deck it appears to have quite a bit of lean to it (as does the HondaBob version). Were you able to rotate the Teryx duct such that the Uni could be mounted reasonably vertical? Would using the Uni UP-6300AST (with the 15 degree offset) help with this problem?
Thx

 

[CID]

Hi CID, Great thread. I'm a new owner of a 2 seat Talon R, and would like to do your version of the Pre-filter mod. Like you have done, I'm interested in having the Uni mounted a couple inches above the rear fender/deck. In your pictures it appears the Uni stands pretty close to vertical, I do not want it to have any "lean" to it. However, looking at your picture of the 3" tube coming thru the deck it appears to have quite a bit of lean to it (as does the HondaBob version). Were you able to rotate the Teryx duct such that the Uni could be mounted reasonably vertical? Would using the Uni UP-6300AST (with the 15 degree offset) help with this problem?
Thx

Hi and welcome from the once great state of Colorado.

"Great thread." Thx, when I bought the Talon, they had just come out and there wasn't a compiled Talon info location, I had to look everywhere to find the basics, hence this thread. We just hit 44k views, so it's been very well received.

If you follow the photo showing where to cut the hole in the fender (post #18), plus the slight kink in the Teryx duct, the straight Uni UP-6300ST will be very close to straight up, you don't need the angled AST. Two caveats - 1. If you have the SATV back window, you might have to use the AST to tip the UNI away from the window (not sure, I don't have a back window). 2. If you have a back window, the backdraft will probably smother your filter with dust. In that case, running the filter into the cab, through the window, is a better location (last photo in post #18), but that's not what you wanted.

Tip - If you want someone to see your post, either quote their post or tag them --> @13965 so they'll get an alert.

 

[13965]

Hi and welcome from the once great state of Colorado.

"Great thread." Thx, when I bought the Talon, they had just come out and there wasn't a compiled Talon info location, I had to look everywhere to find the basics, hence this thread. We just hit 44k views, so it's been very well received.

If you follow the photo showing where to cut the hole in the fender (post #18), plus the slight kink in the Teryx duct, the straight Uni UP-6300ST will be very close to straight up, you don't need the angled AST. Two caveats - 1. If you have the SATV back window, you might have to use the AST to tip the UNI away from the window (not sure, I don't have a back window). 2. If you have a back window, the backdraft will probably smother your filter with dust. In that case, running the filter into the cab, through the window, is a better location (last photo in post #18), but that's not what you wanted.

Tip - If you want someone to see your post, either quote their post or tag them --> @13965 so they'll get an alert.

@CID Thx for the prompt reply. Would using a hole saw be the best way to cut the hole? If so do you know what size works best for a clean cut that gives a nice snug fit. 2 3/4 or 3”…or something else?
Thx

 

[CID]

@CID Thx for the prompt reply. Would using a hole saw be the best way to cut the hole? If so do you know what size works best for a clean cut that gives a nice snug fit. 2 3/4 or 3”…or something else?
Thx

Answer would have been a bit quicker if you had known about the tag/quote trick but now you do.

Since a tight fit was important to me, I used that rasp bit because I was able to move the hole exactly where I wanted it. I didn't have that photo/drawing to go by back then, just HondaBob's photos. The further you can crowd the two bottom arrows in the drawing (rearward) the straighter the tube can stand.

The Teryx tube measures 72.11mm / 2.828 inches if you want to use a hole saw.