P1000 Not firing

[JTW]

It's not voltage.. I have a second battery. And a voltmeter on the stock battery anyway.

This isn't just a wait a second for it to start. There was 15-20 seconds of cranking to get it to hit.

 

[Admin]

 

[Eltobgi]

Were you in the habit of cycling the key twice prior to it doing it to you?

No not at all!

 

[Eltobgi]

It's not voltage.. I have a second battery. And a voltmeter on the stock battery anyway.

This isn't just a wait a second for it to start. There was 15-20 seconds of cranking to get it to hit.

Have you cleaned your spark arrestor? If could also be the dumb s*** that hooked up your dual battery set up and wired your switch panel

 

[JTW]

Have you cleaned your spark arrestor? If could also be the dumb s*** that hooked up your dual battery set up and wired your switch panel

No.. I have less than 300 miles..

It's not the dual battery... I made sure that dumbass kept everything completely separate from stock... it's something with the computer and the fuel mixture or spark.. I'll take a video next time. It acts like a carb machine when it's flooded but other than turning the machine off nothing was touched.

 

[Eltobgi]

No.. I have less than 300 miles..

It's not the dual battery... I made sure that dumbass kept everything completely separate from stock... it's something with the computer and the fuel mixture or spark.. I'll take a video next time. It acts like a carb machine when it's flooded but other than turning the machine off nothing was touched.

LOL, JK about the dual battery setup.
I know what you mean! Mine did the same thing! Thought maybe bad gas, and then i thought maybe valves needed adjusting, but it wasn't the case! Look closely to see if it is smoking from the exhaust...

 

[JTW]

LOL, JK about the dual battery setup.
I know what you mean! Mine did the same thing! Thought maybe bad gas, and then i thought maybe valves needed adjusting, but it wasn't the case! Look closely to see if it is smoking from the exhaust...

I know.. I just hate these kinds of issues.

 

[Jshell3]

If it's any consolation neither my P500 or my P1k5 start right up when you turn the key. They both "work at it".

By contrast, my old carb 350 Rancher is amazing quick, tho.

 

[JTW]

If it's any consolation neither my P500 or my P1k5 start right up when you turn the key. They both "work at it".

By contrast, my old carb 350 Rancher is amazing quick, tho.

I know what you mean about the delay... this isn't that.

 

[Jshell3]

I know what you mean about the delay... this isn't that.

Is it possible that your not using the factory program ignition key?

Are you trying to crank it with a backup copy you made at Walmart?

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Valve adjustment might help. I think the decompression on the cam doesn't help anything but the starter. Opening the throttle might help it get more air when its pushing it out the exhaust when cranking. Book only shows 130 psi on the cranking compression.

 

[pct]

Mine has never started without turning over several times it has been that way since it was new

 

[allgm1]

A while back Someone else suggested not waiting for the fuel pump to shut off when starting the 700's. I wonder how well it would work on a p1k. I put the key in and go right to starting it, it seems as though my 700 starts a whole lot better since I've been using this method.

 

[TractorMan]

Mine has also done this on occasion. When it does I just push the accelerator half way to the floor and it cranks right up. 99 percent of the time mine starts before it turns over one good time. I find that the hard start usually only happens after I have rode for a while and shut it off to do something and then re-start while engine is still hot.

 

[JTW]

Mine has also done this on occasion. When it does I just push the accelerator half way to the floor and it cranks right up. 99 percent of the time mine starts before it turns over one good time. I find that the hard start usually only happens after I have rode for a while and shut it off to do something and then re-start while engine is still hot.

Exactly..

 

[JTW]

Valve adjustment might help. I think the decompression on the cam doesn't help anything but the starter. Opening the throttle might help it get more air when its pushing it out the exhaust when cranking. Book only shows 130 psi on the cranking compression.

I just had the first service done and the valves were in spec.

 

[ghost]

I know you say it not voltage but mine did exactly what you describe in your first post and it it turned out to be the guy that installed my dual battery.
The ground terminal on the primary battery was left loose.
The engine would turn but no ignition.

 

[JTW]

Is it possible that your not using the factory program ignition key?

Are you trying to crank it with a backup copy you made at Walmart?

No.. I haven't had any backups made.


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[JTW]

I know you say it not voltage but mine did exactly what you describe in your first post and it it turned out to be the guy that installed my dual battery.
The ground terminal on the primary battery was left loose.
The engine would turn but no ignition.

I can see the voltage on the meter.. it's good. Besides I didn't jump to the stock battery for ground. I'll check them again... but I'm 96.349% sure it's a tuning issue.

 

[ghost]

Your probably right but once you start cranking some amps a bad connection can cause a big voltage drop. Then you do not get voltage where you need it cause it's all lost across the bad connection.

But in your case it a tuning thing so you should go ahead and pay for that power commander in your cart

 

[JTW]

Your probably right but once you start cranking some amps a bad connection can cause a big voltage drop. Then you do not get voltage where you need it cause it's all lost across the bad connection.

But in your case it a tuning thing so you should go ahead and pay for that power commander in your cart

Lol.. I'll just deal with the slow start once every 4 or 5 months. Shocks are higher on my list.