Oil education

joeymt33

joeymt33

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So if a engine says 10w40 is recommended why don't we use 0w40 in everything that calls for 10w40 and so on like 0w20 or 0w30 0w50 and so on? if the lower number is for cold viscosity why wouldn't 0w on the cold side work for everything?

That’s the way I understand it as well. I haven’t used the 0 weight because it costs more for those brands that carry it.
 
trigger

trigger

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So if a engine says 10w40 is recommended why don't we use 0w40 in everything that calls for 10w40 and so on like 0w20 or 0w30 0w50 and so on? if the lower number is for cold viscosity why wouldn't 0w on the cold side work for everything?

Don't know the answer to that but maybe because it would be thin as water and not stick at all causing zero lubrication?
 
Bradley-Thornton

Bradley-Thornton

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The info you gave is solid but its a way more complicated then that.

Additives matter a ton. Example (zinc) solid roller cams need it.
Royal Purple has a ton of chlorine in it and I would never use it on a daily driver. Make seals go out over time.

A question was asked about using 0-30 and not 10-30 use want the engineer designed the motor for. It has to do with clearances/tolerances. Now some say 5-20 or 0-20 in the summer you would run the 5-20 and winter the 0-20. Does it really matter not really but thats the perfect world.

I bought a 07 Camry new it has 280k mile on it and at the first oil change I put Mobil 1 in it I change it every 10k miles. Never a single problem.

Big time race car builders run a thin oil to add HP but when they pull the motor apart after a few passes they see more wear on lifters and pushrods and ect. Then you have the guys that run full season motors that go with the thicker oil and have the same or less wear. (Understand this is 1000+hp motors) big article was written about this recently I found it interesting

Almost all car companies are going synthetic Toyota is now going 0w with 10k oil changes at the dealership.

I run Mobil 1 in all my rides. (cars, trucks)

Now in my ATV and SXS I run Honda. it has the right additives it was engineered for that ride. Is another oil better maybe but you would need to look at the additives and match it up and have some extras MAYBE.

Just a quick talk on filters. Many things go into whats the best and why. Micron size to small extra pressure (Fram) and so on.
Toyota makes a great one if you have a Toyota just use theirs no reason to upgrade.
Champion make Mobil 1 and K&N for the most part they are the same at least they are on the inside so I buy Mobil 1 they are cheaper. But they are the best both of them.

Oil I haven't done research on in years but Mobil 1, Valvoline are both great oils. Zinc has been cut from almost all gas oils but you can buy an additive.

I have seen we have a few other gear heads in this group I'm sure they will chime in also.
 
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Bradley-Thornton

Bradley-Thornton

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Don't know the answer to that but maybe because it would be thin as water and not stick at all causing zero lubrication?

Bigger the tolerance the thicker it will need to be. Tighter the thinner.
 
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jwfirebird

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saying the toy lasts with mobil isnt saying much they are like honda just run with very little care. people i know had problems with the mobil are complex engines like dual cams and vvt. izuzu and chev some come with it and these people ran it everytime and had failures before 100k

always put some valvoline in mine, in the recommended spec, newer gms have the dexos specs, or mobil one to start but i dont leave it
 
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Superthrill

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Knowing a few people way up in the auto Industry has shed the light on a few things as well.

CAFE. Corporate Average Fuel Economy.

Government regs on emissions mandates such as the 100K life expectancy on emissions related parts such as plugs etc.

Knowing that and a few corporate Ford engineers, do not believe for 1 second d that they have engineered the "best" oil for longevity etc.

What they have done is engineered the best oil to get their CAFE ratings up, and wear to the minimum required.

Some of those goals do sacrifice ultimate longevity, which most people are most concerned with.

Any reasonable maintained new vehicle should go 200k these days.
 
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