Same here. It's definitely between 1/8" and 3/16" plate. From the factory, mine has aluminum plate on the LCA's measuring around .140 (like 10 gauge plate) -- the long plate on the under belly is around .160 (like 9 gauge). Plenty for me.Mine has the factory skid plate, it's aluminum, about 1/4" thick (didn't measure). Don't plan to replace it any time soon as I don't crawl rocks.
They come in standard or metric sizes.The Rivet Nuts require their own stud and not the original OEM metric self threading screws , correct?? What screws are you using with the rivet nuts?
The Rivet Nuts require their own stud and not the original OEM metric self threading screws , correct?? What screws are you using with the rivet nuts?
I'm curious, what does your factory skid look like? Is there some thin stamped steel skid on some models, or plastic or something?
I use quite a few rivnuts on various projects and they are great, for the first time user it would be a little spooky drilling an oversized hole for the fastener though. Just use a little common sense and don't over seat the rivet and run the chance of breaking the mandrel.
Rivnuts are very solid fasteners and easy to install after a very short learning curve...
Exactly. That, and you can always tighten up the rivet nut more if need be. The lightbar brackets in the pic are installed using rivnuts that go through just the outer wall of the roll cage gusset. I didn't want to use longer bolts through both sides of the gusset and then have them squeeze the gusset walls together. This ended up very sturdy.
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In my opinion..... all fasteners that are subject to the least amount of corrosion should get an ample dose of antisiese.....Rivet nuts have come up several times for skid plate installation, and it would cretainly be easier than welding in flange nuts...
But my concern would be the corrosion these bolts/nuts would be subject to, and then the prospect of the rivet nut spinning when trying to get the bolt out.
What do you guys think?
Rivet nuts have come up several times for skid plate installation, and it would cretainly be easier than welding in flange nuts...
But my concern would be the corrosion these bolts/nuts would be subject to, and then the prospect of the rivet nut spinning when trying to get the bolt out.
What do you guys think?
I am literally using this tool as we speak to install the SuperATV skid. I got the rear, front, and left side finished last night and ran out of daylight. The machine is still sitting here and I will finish it tomorrow morning. I made the mistake and forgot to order bolts and over paid at Westlakes $1.16 each for the bolts I forgot. You may need a few longer ones than others. I used 20mm on most I could for what Westlakes had in stock and then 25mm worked without issue for the remaining count I needed. I think I used 4 longer 30mm in some spots.Thank you all for weighing in on the rivnut issue. I have ordered several 6mm, but may I ask are you all using the special tools or some of the “poor man” methods on YouTube?
I was home for this addition and attempted to lift it with the L3301 and it lifted the rear up even with the brush hog attached. So I did this instesd. I ran it up with ramps and the rear tires just touched the edge. I had to pull the ramps out with the magnum. I should have it done tomorrow.Nice jack stand…… I like your style ..