P1000 skid plate

C

coxer

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I just removed my stock original plastic skid plates to wash caked mud off and in the process, 5 of the metal screws broke off. Anyone know of an easy way to get those pieces out so I can reinstall? Thanks
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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Speedout/Easy out. Drill & remove. Plenty of cutting oil (or WD-40 in a pinch). Likely run a tap thru after to make sure the threads OK.

Some try to weld scrap steel to the remaining bolt, but you risk welding the bolt to the casting if not careful or if there is not enough bolt exposed.
 
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C

coxer

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Aug 14, 2021
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Darlington, SC
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Speedout/Easy out. Drill & remove. Likely run a tap thru after to make sure the threads OK.

Some try to weld scrap steel to the remaining bolt, but you risk welding the bolt to the casting if not careful or if there is not enough bolt exposed.
Thanks so much!
 
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kyrider1000

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Oh dear god .... I guess i better get to spraying those bolts with some Krill a couple weeks before i start my skid plate .

Thanks for the heads up . your pain is my knowledge
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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Oh dear god .... I guess i better get to spraying those bolts with some Krill a couple weeks before i start my skid plate .

Thanks for the heads up . your pain is my knowledge
How many fars do you have on your machine? I only had a few hundred miles on mine, and they all came out no problem. But if you've put a lot of miles on your machine, that might be different.
 
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Hondasxs

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Roechling is in my home town. That's where a majority of UHMW comes from. Checked a few years ago and they wouldn't quote me anything less than 30 sheets.

I'm not man enough to handle a 30 sheet stack. Lol



Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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Scoop

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I think around 3k ?
You should probably be OK.

If you're trashing the OEM G-string skid plate, don't be afraid to put a little heat on the bolt heads if they resist (Bernzomatic trigger start torch head and a bottle o' MAPP gas works great to pinpoint). Just be sure to have water or something nearby in case the plastic catches on fire. :)
 
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NewHere2

NewHere2

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Why would you heat the head and cause the bolt to swell ??

A good welder can TIG weld a nut onto those broke off studs. It will reach in there almost 3/16” with out causing problems.

Occasionally , if you have threads showing inside the hole, you can screw a new bolt into the hole. Causing the broke off piece to screw it’s self up into the tube and fall out inside the tube / frame.

Good Luck !
 
Scoop

Scoop

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Why would you heat the head and cause the bolt to swell ??

A good welder can TIG weld a nut onto those broke off studs. It will reach in there almost 3/16” with out causing problems.

Occasionally , if you have threads showing inside the hole, you can screw a new bolt into the hole. Causing the broke off piece to screw it’s self up into the tube and fall out inside the tube / frame.

Good Luck !
While you generally use heat on the nut, it does work on stuck bolts in thicker material. It's called 'constrained expansion'.

When the bolt is heated, it expands. Since the shaft of the bolt is constrained, it can't expand inside the hole. As the bolt cools, it contracts. The contraction, however, is not constrained. This means that the bolt can shrink in all directions, making the bolt slightly smaller. Once the bolt has cooled, it should be smaller and easier to extract.

I've used heat on hundreds of stuck bolts over the past 4 decades with great results.

FYI: Most users here are not "good welders' nor do they have a TIG setup or materials laying around the garage. My bro is welder by trade and owns a mobile welding side business as well. I'm sure he could do that, but your average backyard mechanic likely can't, nor do they have the gear. Of course, some here are not your average backyard mechanic, either. It certainly is a good approach if you can do it and have the tools.
 
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StewB

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While you generally use heat on the nut, it does work on stuck bolts in thicker material. It's called 'constrained expansion'.

When the bolt is heated, it expands. Since the shaft of the bolt is constrained, it can't expand inside the hole. As the bolt cools, it contracts. The contraction, however, is not constrained. This means that the bolt can shrink in all directions, making the bolt slightly smaller. Once the bolt has cooled, it should be smaller and easier to extract.

I've used heat on hundreds of stuck bolts over the past 4 decades with great results.

FYI: Most users here are not "good welders' nor do they have a TIG setup or materials laying around the garage. My bro is welder by trade and owns a mobile welding side business as well. I'm sure he could do that, but your average backyard mechanic likely can't, nor do they have the gear. Of course, some here are not your average backyard mechanic, either. It certainly is a good approach if you can do it and have the tools.

Just use an eazyout







(Rolling on ground. I crack myself up sometimes . . . . )
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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Just use an eazyout

(Rolling on ground. I crack myself up sometimes . . . . )
Yes, sir. There are always more than one way to skin a cat, that's for sure.
 

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