P1000m5 P-1K5 upgrade thread

TripleB

TripleB

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The SATV A arms did come with a steering stop to prevent rubbing which I opted to not install. Without the spacers the 30" 5+2 offset wheel/tires rubbed hard on the fwd A arms at less than full lock. With the RB3 spacers (1" front, 1.5" rear) they easily cleared the A arms but still rubbed slightly on the inner fender well. I suspect 16-21 models would be fine but the added material in the 22+ models reduces the clearance. The rubbing in the front is pretty minor and will likely go away as the tires start to wear.

View attachment 421229 View attachment 421230

The rear tires rubbed on the Mud buster bolt/nut at full compression. This was only an issue if I ran the shocks on setting 1, changing them to setting 2 prevented the rub. I also tried swapping the offending bolt to a shorter one but it still rubbed on setting 1.

View attachment 421231
I ground those bolts down flat to the nut. Helped alot but still rub some if I'm riding fast and hit a big dip or something. I've gotten pretty good at judging how fast I can hit dips and ruts without rubbing . I run my rear shocks on the firm setting(3). But I also carry alot of weight. When I'm running empty, I'm in the number 1 setting.
 
Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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I ground those bolts down flat to the nut. Helped alot but still rub some if I'm riding fast and hit a big dip or something. I've gotten pretty good at judging how fast I can hit dips and ruts without rubbing . I run my rear shocks on the firm setting(3). But I also carry alot of weight. When I'm running empty, I'm in the number 1 setting.
I actually turned those bolts upside down the nuts don’t appear to interfere with the door at all, and it helped a lot
 
JenElio

JenElio

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You need to clam that tube
Umm wait
 
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Mudwisel

Mudwisel

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Yea i need to talk to my FAB guy..... @knuckledeep
He said to me to take some angle iron and sandwich it between tube and skid. Use your existing bolts. to hold in place. I believe some use carriage bolts. knuckle said you could use the bolts that hold the skid on. I would change to nutserts if not done already. This is the approach I am going to take
 
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Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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Recycled the working Tusk harness from the Talon to the P1K. See how long this one last.


And just to be clear I was able to remove the seatbelt bolt with just a 5/8” wrench. 🤷‍♂️

IMG 8016 IMG 8015
 
Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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By day three of takeover the rattles were driving me crazy. The worst seemed to be coming from the bed latch and the roof. Bed latch was easy enough, just used the tried and true fuel line and zip tie.

IMG 8021
 
Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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For the roof I think the issue was that the SATV windshield clamps sit higher than the Tusk roof mounts. This was causing some flex & rubbing that was driving me crazy. I added some 1/2” rubber spacers I found on Amazon and longer bolts. Hopefully this quiets things down a bit.

IMG 8019
 
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GovtMule

GovtMule

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By day three of takeover the rattles were driving me crazy. The worst seemed to be coming from the bed latch and the roof. Bed latch was easy enough, just used the tried and true fuel line and zip tie.

View attachment 432275
Mine disintegrated early on day 2 and I didn’t have any extra hose with me. Lesson learned.


I traded it!
 
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