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P1000 P1K5Dave's 1000-5 Build

P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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I just ordered. I was gonna order one last year but didn't because my machine was gone in the winter months. I'm glad I waited so i will get the 22 version. No doubt it will be on backorder.
Note that that price was thru Ron Ayers. They have free shipping (with an asterisk for large items.) I doubt this ships free...
 
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TripleB

TripleB

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Note that that price was thru Ron Ayers. They have free shipping (with an asterisk for large items.) I doubt this ships free...
Yep. I ran into that with them on part of the rear cage. Rockymountainatvmc.com has it for list price but will probably actually ship for free. They shipped that section of rear cage for free but I had to drive 20 minutes away to knoxville to pick it up. Ronayers.com wanted $250 just to ship it.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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I sold my Vision-X 6.7" light cannons last week. They were awesome lights in their own right, but not a good fit for the Pioneer.

They draw nearly 12 amps for the pair, so they couldn't be run with the rest of my lighting. I'd run them by themselves or with one other set. They have great range, but such a tight spot beam that if you're on any kind of grade you'd see a few dots up in the trees ahead. I broke down the beam some with their lenses, but then I lost the long range I wanted out of them.

They'd be great in an array af 4-6 of them on a big truck with dual alternators.

Anyway, I kept all of my wiring, switch, and relays, and I had two holes in my bumper, so along comes the light cannon baby brothers: A pair of Chilhead 4" spot beams with Cree 50W LEDs. A heck of a lot cheaper at $80 a pair, and they fit my use better.

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They look tiny compared to the 6.7s, but they don't hog up my whole front end either (before pic)

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Here she is all lit up

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I like them. They complement my overhead lighting with some longer range.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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So my lighting load is pretty much all one can run at this point. I can run all four (overhead array, bumper bar, mirror wide beams, and 4" spots) and still show 12.8 to 13.1 V on my aux battery voltmeter, depending on my engine RPMs.

Watching that, I noticed my cruising R's are usually around 3500-4000, where the Alternator puts out its max at 5000.

I did learn that if I'm creeping through the forest at low RPMs, I'll drop below 12V after a while if running the whole array, so I generally don't do that. Just pick the combo I want.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Installed the Starknight seat cover for this weekend's riding. My seat is starting to separate on rhe driver's side, so I bought this hoping to stop (or at least slow) its progression.

It fits pretty snug. I didn't get it on there as evenly as I'd like because it was so tight trying to get it on. I figured I'd revisit it after riding a bit, so the fabric can break in and probably stretch a bit.
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P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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While we're here I thought I'd show you
20220924 145741
my Arctic Zone cooler that I keep in the front seat. It's great because it's the perfect height for the driver and passenger to have an arm rest.

And if you look at the driver's side "cup holder" (lame) you see a bluetooth music controller. That's my trick little way to change music track or volume with my off hand while driving (my head unit audio controls are overhead on the Audioformz roof.)

I initially had one of the steering wheel mounted ones. This works better, more accessible and in a fixed position.
 
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SaltwaterSlick

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That soft sided "console"is a great idea!! That would come in handy in the hot South Texas brush... be nice to come back to a cool beverage after loading ol' big buck in the back! I seldom have more than one passenger. Do you just have it seatbelted in?
 
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P1K5Dave

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@SaltwaterSlick I don't even bother to buckle it. I did at first, but it really doesn't move around. If your style of riding calls for it, you can use that center belt.

You'd be really surprised how much more comfortable the ride is with a nice arm rest at the proper height. Mine is about 13" tall.

It's not a truly soft-sided cooler because there's a hard plastic tub inside and the lid is hard plastic.
 
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SaltwaterSlick

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Thx Dave. I’ve got a couple small coolers that I’m gonna try. I’m used to the console on my truck and I agree it would have to help if I don’t have a passenger for that spot.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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New lighting update: I liked my new 4" cannons so well I started thinking about their 30° beam, and wondering if anyone sold any tighter ones...

So I found these 8° beam units on ebay. They're CREE 40W vs the CREE 50W on my other set, but I figured I'd give them a try.

The 15" led on my bull bar was getting totally outclassed by the rest of the array, so I took it out and put these in its place. The array has gotten better!

S l400


Here's the full set at night

20221010 230847
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Guess I've got some problems to troubleshoot this Spring.

Took my Honda over to storage last night to put her away for the Winter. It turns out, I was stuck in 1st gear and had to creep the whole 5 miles at 10 mph to get it there.

It's flashing code 67, which indicates front vehicle speed sensor. I looked it up right away, determined that it wasn't going to hurt it to run as long as I kept the RPMs down, and just kept going to the storage barn. We have the blizzard coming in today, so I needed to get it put away.

I found one thread where one of our guys had the same code. They wound up replacing the whole ECM after a dozen tries at fixing it, I sure hope I don't have as much trouble.

All I can tell you about it is that the machine has been sitting for nearly a month since my last ride. My last few rides, it was having difficulty getting into 4wd, and I figured I needed to do some adjustments at the front diff. It did not have any issues shifting.

But now I think it all may have been related to this VS sensor, because last night it would never indicate 4wd when I switched it there, but it *did* go into 4-Lock and the display indicated it correctly. Pisser...

 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Well, the "kinda good" news is that everything worked fine when I got the Honda out of storage this week. It shifted normally (see previous post if you're wondering what I'm talking about.)

The not-so-good news is that I now have an "intermittent" electrical problem.

My guess is that the front VS sensor is either failing and causing problems once in a while, or it's got a loose or corroded connection. I'll check it out this weekend. Might as well go ahead and replace it since I bought one anyway.

Anyway, she's out of storage and ready to start the season at 12,870 miles.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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Could it be wiring damage from mice or rats?
Possibly. I thought about that because it sat outside, covered up for a month before storage as it was getting cold. Prime season for critters to migrate in. I'll be watching for that as well.
 
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P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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I've done a good bit of documentation on brake pads here. I've run several pair of aftermarket pads, and I was changing out rear pads constantly. Without reading back, I believe I was lucky to get much more than 1200 miles on a set of rear pads.

Last time I went with Honda OEM pads. Here they are at 3K miles and still plenty of pad left before I get to the squealer (and a pic of a new one so you can see how much pad I've used.) It's a no brainer, only OEM pads for me from now on.
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