P1000 P1K5Dave's 1000-5 Build

[P1K5Dave]

I use four jack stands and kite string. Make as close to a perfect rectangle as you can around the machine.

Then I have two pieces of that perforated metal angle stock that you buy at the hardware store. They're about 3' long each.

I use bungee cords to strap them to the outside of each front tire, right across the center and level to the ground.

The angle stock works great to measure from in front of and behind the tires, and makes it easier to eyeball each tire relative to the string.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I'll have to take a pic of my alignment setup sometime. It works pretty well.

If you dont make the rectangle first, I've found that you can get the front tires looking good relative to each other, but cockeyed in relation to the back tires. This will cause your machine to crabwalk down the road.

 

[Spoonbill]

I use four jack stands and kite string. Make as close to a perfect rectangle as you can around the machine.

Then I have two pieces of that perforated metal angle stock that you buy at the hardware store. They're about 3' long each.

I use bungee cords to strap them to the outside of each front tire, right across the center and level to the ground.

The angle stock works great to measure from in front of and behind the tires, and makes it easier to eyeball each tire relative to the string.

I lost on the perforated angle iron. Any chance I could get a picture?

 

[P1K5Dave]

This stuff. You can buy it in 3' pieces at Home Depot and such. The holes give you a place to connect a bungee around the tire.

 

[JMynes]

Front wheels and tires removed, A-arms resting on wooden blocks.
Four foot level on each side clamped to the brake rotor, level and at the same height.
Mark each level equally, about 15” front and rear of center of hub. Measure at these marks, adjust until front measurement is 1/8”-3/16” smaller than rear measurement.
Tighten tie rod adjustment, recheck measurements.
Remove four foot levels, jack up, install wheels. Lower the machine and torque lugs.
Go for a spin, come back and adjust steering wheel centering as desired. If you choose to do it at the tie rods, it might be wise to go through it all again. I removed the steering wheel and moved it one spline to center.

 

[JMynes]

I tried clamping straight edges to the tire, measuring the gap to the wheel, it didn’t work for me. Pretty sure the factory tires are not ‘dead nuts’ true, and the short distance between front and rear rim edges introduces too much potential for error.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I've done it with the wheels off using the rotors. Too much overhead to me, but to each his own. If you're not making a string box around all 4, you still have the potential for crabwalking.

Another tip is to put a few sheets of paper under the front tires, so they'll put up less resistance as you adjust the tie rods.

 

[Smitty335]

I'm going to keep a list of maintenance, fixes, and add-ons in this post. I do all the oil changes and such to schedule, so I won't bore you with those details. But I thought it might be interesting to others to see how often I need to change out wear parts like brake pads, for example. I use ACar by Fuelly on my Android phone to keep track of everything I do to all of my vehicles.

I called out the bigger problems with bold face and larger fonts. These are the "bad days."

• 7/20, 2500 mi - replaced the battery with a new NAPA AGM. The battery that was in it when I purchased it was about shot.
• 7/20, 2500 mi - Installed vent line kit, added rear recovery shackle, replace RR seat bottom.
• 7/20, 2690 mi - pulled out my spark arrestor and cleaned it. Found that there was already one of the bolts broken off in the muffler, so I used anti-seize in the remaining two and put it back together.
• 8/20, 2700 mi - replaced tail light that was burned out.
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Installed Bad Dawg front bumper, Badlands 5K winch, dual battery system, switches.
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Replaced air filter, did not need to be done as it was in good shape.
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Replaced brake pads all around
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Added RB3 Offroad wheel spacers
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Added rubber to door bumpers, installed larger cup holders.
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Installed 4-pt harnesses for rear seats
• 8/20, 2894 mi - After having parts on backorder for over a month, replaced the R-1-3-5 Clutch Pack
• 8/20, 2899 mi - Had front wheel bearing squeal. Purchased a bearing greaser and fixed that immediately. I now grease bearings on every brake job.
• 8/20, 2900 mi - Replaced LF MSA wheel. Crack on inner wheel caused slow leak.
• 8/20, 3100 mi - Added 15" front led light bar to top of Bad Dawg bull bar
• 9/20, 4091 mi - 2+ months of backorder, finally got the parts in to do the reverse gear replacement (Talon gears) and low range gear replacement. I had driven the machine 1600 miles with no reverse. I wrote a thread on this job here.
• 9/20, 4100 mi - replaced LR tail light. Both tail lights now new.
• 9/20, 4100 mi - Added flip-down windshield
• 9/20, 4100 mi - Added Mudbuster XL fender flares
• 9/20, 4200 mi - Random shutdowns - Replaced both injector plug / wires. One of them was failing with increasing frequency.
• 10/20, 4400 mi - Replaced LF brake line, broken and leaking
• 11/20, 4855 mi - Trail damage (made it home) Replaced RF axle with an OEM axle, replaced diff seal at this time. (A few posts on this topic)
• 11/20, 4925 mi - Trail breakdown (left overnight, fixed on trail next day) - Sheared RF upper ball joint. Replaced ball joint, replaced RF brake hose (damaged in failure,) replaced RF axle with a Rhino 2.0 because boot was torn on stock axle, ordered boot to repair stock axle as backup.
• 11/20, 4925 mi - Replaced right tie rod kit. Inner joint was sloppy. Also replaced the plastic "bearing" inside the steering box joint.
• 11/20, 5147 mi - Replaced all brake pads, lubed all wheel bearings.
• 3/21, 5200 mi - Steering column knuckle replaced by dealer under recall
• 4/21, 5549 mi - Front Right damage due to clipping log at 30 mph (left on trail overnight, towed out next day.) Weld repair torn upper tab, replace RF Highlifter arms (upper and lower) and Highlifter bushing kit. New OEM ball joints (upper and lower.) New tie rod kit and outer tie rod end, new brake line, swapped stock axle back in (Rhino 2.0 axle separated at outer CV, replaced by SATV under warranty - new Rhino 2.0 on hand as backup / awaiting purchase of second one to replace stockers.)
• 4/21, 5803 mi - Replaced air filter. Second time I replaced this thing too early, it looked really good.
• 5/21, 5943 mi - Changed out front and rear diff lube, went to full synthetic 75w-140
• 5/21, 6100 mi - Added passenger grab handles to Right upper roll bar, removed rear sway bar, made the firewall "heat door" quick-detach, did the first storage mod to the RR bed panel.
• 5/21, 6100 mi - Added RAD Customs rear seat bracket mod.
• 5/21, 6400 mi - Added Tusk 3/8" UHMW full skid plate
• 5/21, 6500 mi - Modified bed latches with 1/4" tubing to eliminate squeaks and rattles
• 6/21, 6797 mi - Replaced all four rubber bumpers where bed sits on frame
• 6/21, 7071 mi - Upgraded suspension to TTC 3" lift, 814 shocks
• 6/21, 7071 mi - All new brake pads and rotors all around, lubed wheel bearings
• 7/21, 7450 mi - Replaced 814 shocks with Fox QS3's
• 7/21, 7600 mi - Busted the hell out of the left rearview mirror (Xprite, LED.) Right one was already cracked, so I ordered a new set.
• 9/21 8400 mi - Broke LF axle. Replaced with Rhino 2.0. Replaced an upper ball joint (already) in my new suspension.
• 9/21 8584 mi - Installed new single rate springs on rear Fox QS-3's (I wrote a how-to thread on this,) had a tire repair for a nail in the tread, and replaced rear brake pads.
• 9/21 8700 mi - Broken Radiator Fan. Replaced with Spal aftermarket fan. See Fan Fail thread. Did a full coolant replace since I was in there.
• 9/21 8700 mi - Cracks in TTC front upper a-arms. To be replaced with new. Pics in Lift Thread.
• 10/21 8895 mi - replaced front right upper ball joint, front brakes, and greased front wheel bearings. Upgraded front shock springs to 250 lb single rate.
• 11/21 9900 mi -added Vision-X light cannons
• 12/21 9996 mi - put her in storage for the Winter, 4 miles shy of 10k

to be continued...

Does the front bumper rub with the 30" tires?

 

[P1K5Dave]

Does the front bumper rub with the 30" tires?

yeah, that turned out to be a problem with the Bad Dawg.

It rubbed some with 30s and a bracket lift.

It rubbed a lot less with 3" TTC lift and 1.5" spacers on the front wheels

It rubbed incessantly with the 3" TTC lift and no spacing on the front wheels.

Then it got chopped - no more problems! See post linked below:

P1000 - P1K5Dave's 1000-5 Build

Thanks! I'm quite happy with the Fox 2.0s, no regrets there. Although, if you're going to upgrade the springs all around, I think you start approaching Elka money anyway. Maybe down the road I might like to try a set, everything I've read here has been positive. There's a link in the first...

hondasxs.com

 

[P1K5Dave]

I had a Rhino 2.0 axle fail on the RR after a little over 1000 miles.

It started making some grinding noises 3-4 rides ago, then I articulated the rear end thru a rut and it found a happy place where it made no more noise since...

I went to take it off tonight, and when I gave it a tug to pop it out of the diff, the inner joint was free! 😬 I was stretching the boot trying to pull it out!

Fortunately it popped out with a pry bar between the CV and diff. Even more fortunately, I still had my old stock RR axle that I was able to install. It's Labor Day weekend and I have visitors ready to ride.

In the pic, I couldn't get the CV back to straight. It's jacked.

 

[P1K5Dave]

While I was in there, I found that my RR wheel bearing is getting tired. Pumped some grease in it and ordered a set of 4 of these Pivot Works aftermarket bearings from RMATV.

They're half the price of OEM bearings, which gave me pause because I don't like to go with cheap bearings, but the reviews convinced me to give them a shot.

Now off to search some threads to see if these are a pain in the arse to replace...😕

 

[PJon]

I had a Rhino 2.0 axle fail on the RR after a little over 1000 miles.

It started making some grinding noises 3-4 rides ago, then I articulated the rear end thru a rut and it found a happy place where it made no more noise since...

I went to take it off tonight, and when I gave it a tug to pop it out of the diff, the inner joint was free! 😬 I was stretching the boot trying to pull it out!

Fortunately it popped out with a pry bar between the CV and diff. Even more fortunately, I still had my old stock RR axle that I was able to install. It's Labor Day weekend and I have visitors ready to ride.

View attachment 351768
In the pic, I couldn't get the CV back to straight. It's jacked.

I’ve always wondered what the maximum angles that those CV’s can take for prolonged periods would be. Especially with the modified suspension.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I’ve always wondered what the maximum angles that those CV’s can take for prolonged periods would be. Especially with the modified suspension.

They're supposed to articulate 30-40% more than stock, if I recall the right numbers. SATV warranties them for 18 months even with lift and all, so for the most part, they're built for it.

First one I've had issues with of the 4. The two fronts have been on a lot longer than these rears.

 

[ToddACimer]

I’ve always wondered what the maximum angles that those CV’s can take for prolonged periods would be. Especially with the modified suspension.

I haven't broken a stock axle shaft since I put SuperATV arms on, that's saying something for a machine that broke a front axle shaft at 7 miles.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I've also noticed that my seat is starting to come apart all around the driver's side. It's only going to get worse.

From what I've seen here on the forum, no one has come up with a successful repair of a P1000 seat with various adhesives.

I'm wondering if it's worth my time to take it to an auto upholstery pro and see if they can improve on it...

 

[ToddACimer]

I've also noticed that my seat is starting to come apart all around the driver's side. It's only going to get worse.

From what I've seen here on the forum, no one has come up with a successful repair of a P1000 seat with various adhesives.

I'm wondering if it's worth my time to take it to an auto upholstery pro and see if they can improve on it...

Honda changed the way the seat material attaches to the base for 2022. Your best bet would probably be ordering a new seat

 

[P1K5Dave]

Honda changed the way the seat material attaches to the base for 2022. Your best bet would probably be ordering a new seat

Oh, cool. Thanks! I was just looking at the cost of a seat, and I went in under the 2018 path. You can see that they've got a replacement part number, so it looks like everyone gets the revised version.

 

[WagginTail]

Oh, cool. Thanks! I was just looking at the cost of a seat, and I went in under the 2018 path. You can see that they've got a replacement part number, so it looks like everyone gets the revised version.

View attachment 351824

For that price it's probably worth just buying new. I see some guys put a cover over it. I repaired the one on my 700 and it lasted for the 6 months I had it till I sold it. Idk how much longer it lasted. I had 3 or 4 hours of time repairing it. My 1000 is starting to come apart so I'll be interested in what route you go. I was thinking camo seat cover

 

[TripleB]

Oh, cool. Thanks! I was just looking at the cost of a seat, and I went in under the 2018 path. You can see that they've got a replacement part number, so it looks like everyone gets the revised version.

View attachment 351824

I just ordered. I was gonna order one last year but didn't because my machine was gone in the winter months. I'm glad I waited so i will get the 22 version. No doubt it will be on backorder.

 

[P1K5Dave]

For that price it's probably worth just buying new. I see some guys put a cover over it. I repaired the one on my 700 and it lasted for the 6 months I had it till I sold it. Idk how much longer it lasted. I had 3 or 4 hours of time repairing it. My 1000 is starting to come apart so I'll be interested in what route you go. I was thinking camo seat cover

I'll probably be buying a new one next year. I figure this one will hold out for a while.