P1000 P1K5Dave's 1000-5 Build

[P1K5Dave]

Finally getting around to writing up my build thread, after a year of ownership and a whole bunch of mods. Here's a current picture (updated May 2024 at 16,500 miles)

2018 Pioneer 1000-5 purchased with 2,500 miles in July 2020

Items already installed when purchased:

• Audioformz Level 3 Stereo roof - mounted with industrial felt
• Highlifter 2.5" bracket lift deleted
• Highlifter front forward a-arm kit deleted
• MSA M33 Clutch 14x7 +10m wheels
• Maxxis Liberty 30" x 10 x 14 all terrain tires

Repair jobs needed at purchase:

• Reverse gear was shot - Replaced with Talon reverse gears (also replaced low gear while in there)
• R-1-3-5 Clutch pack slipping (replaced)
• Rear seat belts deleted by previous owner (replaced with 4pt harnesses)
• RR seat bottom missing (replaced)

My Additions and Modifications:

Suspension / Drive

• Texas Tough Customs 3" A-arm kit with 2-bolt front upper arm option (install thread)
• Fox QS3 shocks (install thread)
  • Upgraded Fox Shocks with Viper coilover springs
    • 2.5" x 14" x 250# Front
    • 3.0" x 14" x 300# Rear
  • Upgrading your springs thread
• RB3 wheel spacers (2" Rear / 1.5" Front)
• Rear sway bar removed ( I did it a few weeks before the TTC install, but it is required to be removed with TTC)
• Rhino 2.0 Axles on all four
• BF Goodrich KM3 Mud-Terrain tires, 30 x 14

Body / Chassis

• Bad Dawg front bumper
• Honda rear bumper
• Mudbuster XL flares
• Sport Concept flip-down hard poly windshield
• Rear storage addition RR bed panel
• Tusk 3/8" UHMW skid plate
• Original vent line kit
• Receiver recovery hitch w/shackle
• Modified bed latches to eliminate noise

Interior

• Golf-cart style wide view rear view mirror
• RAD Customs rear seat brackets w/RZR seat bottoms
• 4 point harnesses for rear seats
• Passenger side upper roll bar grab handles
• Quick release/replace "heat door" on firewall
• Cup holders removed / replaced with larger
• Center cup holder / switch panel
• Door bump-stop mods
• RB3 door bushings

Electrical

• Dual Battery system
  • Mighty Max battery
  • True kit
  • 10-way fuse box
  • 12 Terminal ground block
  • Stinger relay
• Badlands 5000 lb winch upgraded to synthetic line
• RAM Mounted Samsung 8" Galaxy Tab A with OsmAnd navigation, internally wired USB charging
• Dual voltmeters for primary / auxiliary battery (with USB charging)

Lighting

• Included in Audioformz roof
  • (4) Dual 10W CREE forward LED
  • (1) Dual 10W CREE reverse LED
  • Dual LED dome lights
• (2) 6.7" VisionX Gen2 Light Cannons
  • Clear Euro covers
  • Blue Euro covers
• (2) Chelhead 4" 50W 30 degree cannon spot lights
• 15" LED light bar mounted on front bumper bull bar
• Dual Xprite mirrors with forward/side LED lighting
• Left / Right side mounted LED Floods

Planned Additions

• Element Fire Extinguisher
• Hillbilly Brake
• More door storage
• Rear winch, receiver mount
• Braided stainless brake lines

 

[Admin]

 

[P1K5Dave]

I'm going to keep a list of maintenance, fixes, and add-ons in this post. I do all the oil changes and such to schedule, so I won't bore you with those details. But I thought it might be interesting to others to see how often I need to change out wear parts like brake pads, for example. I use ACar by Fuelly on my Android phone to keep track of everything I do to all of my vehicles.

I called out the bigger problems with bold face and larger fonts. These are the "bad days."

• 7/20, 2500 mi - replaced the battery with a new NAPA AGM. The battery that was in it when I purchased it was about shot.
• 7/20, 2500 mi - Installed vent line kit, added rear recovery shackle, replace RR seat bottom.
• 7/20, 2690 mi - pulled out my spark arrestor and cleaned it. Found that there was already one of the bolts broken off in the muffler, so I used anti-seize in the remaining two and put it back together.
• 8/20, 2700 mi - replaced tail light that was burned out.
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Installed Bad Dawg front bumper, Badlands 5K winch, dual battery system, switches.
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Replaced air filter, did not need to be done as it was in good shape.
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Replaced brake pads all around
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Added RB3 Offroad wheel spacers
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Added rubber to door bumpers, installed larger cup holders.
• 8/20, 2800 mi - Installed 4-pt harnesses for rear seats
• 8/20, 2894 mi - After having parts on backorder for over a month, replaced the R-1-3-5 Clutch Pack
• 8/20, 2899 mi - Had front wheel bearing squeal. Purchased a bearing greaser and fixed that immediately. I now grease bearings on every brake job.
• 8/20, 2900 mi - Replaced LF MSA wheel. Crack on inner wheel caused slow leak.
• 8/20, 3100 mi - Added 15" front led light bar to top of Bad Dawg bull bar
• 9/20, 4091 mi - 2+ months of backorder, finally got the parts in to do the reverse gear replacement (Talon gears) and low range gear replacement. I had driven the machine 1600 miles with no reverse. I wrote a thread on this job here.
• 9/20, 4100 mi - replaced LR tail light. Both tail lights now new.
• 9/20, 4100 mi - Added flip-down windshield
• 9/20, 4100 mi - Added Mudbuster XL fender flares
• 9/20, 4200 mi - Random shutdowns - Replaced both injector plug / wires. One of them was failing with increasing frequency.
• 10/20, 4400 mi - Replaced LF brake line, broken and leaking
• 11/20, 4855 mi - Trail damage (made it home) Replaced RF axle with an OEM axle, replaced diff seal at this time. (A few posts on this topic)
• 11/20, 4925 mi - Trail breakdown (left overnight, fixed on trail next day) - Sheared RF upper ball joint. Replaced ball joint, replaced RF brake hose (damaged in failure,) replaced RF axle with a Rhino 2.0 because boot was torn on stock axle, ordered boot to repair stock axle as backup.
• 11/20, 4925 mi - Replaced right tie rod kit. Inner joint was sloppy. Also replaced the plastic "bearing" inside the steering box joint.
• 11/20, 5147 mi - Replaced all brake pads, lubed all wheel bearings.
• 3/21, 5200 mi - Steering column knuckle replaced by dealer under recall
• 4/21, 5549 mi - Front Right damage due to clipping log at 30 mph (left on trail overnight, towed out next day.) Weld repair torn upper tab, replace RF Highlifter arms (upper and lower) and Highlifter bushing kit. New OEM ball joints (upper and lower.) New tie rod kit and outer tie rod end, new brake line, swapped stock axle back in (Rhino 2.0 axle separated at outer CV, replaced by SATV under warranty - new Rhino 2.0 on hand as backup / awaiting purchase of second one to replace stockers.)
• 4/21, 5803 mi - Replaced air filter. Second time I replaced this thing too early, it looked really good.
• 5/21, 5943 mi - Changed out front and rear diff lube, went to full synthetic 75w-140
• 5/21, 6100 mi - Added passenger grab handles to Right upper roll bar, removed rear sway bar, made the firewall "heat door" quick-detach, did the first storage mod to the RR bed panel.
• 5/21, 6100 mi - Added RAD Customs rear seat bracket mod.
• 5/21, 6400 mi - Added Tusk 3/8" UHMW full skid plate
• 5/21, 6500 mi - Modified bed latches with 1/4" tubing to eliminate squeaks and rattles
• 6/21, 6797 mi - Replaced all four rubber bumpers where bed sits on frame
• 6/21, 7071 mi - Upgraded suspension to TTC 3" lift, 814 shocks
• 6/21, 7071 mi - All new brake pads and rotors all around, lubed wheel bearings
• 7/21, 7450 mi - Replaced 814 shocks with Fox QS3's
• 7/21, 7600 mi - Busted the hell out of the left rearview mirror (Xprite, LED.) Right one was already cracked, so I ordered a new set.
• 9/21 8400 mi - Broke LF axle. Replaced with Rhino 2.0. Replaced an upper ball joint (already) in my new suspension.
• 9/21 8584 mi - Installed new single rate springs on rear Fox QS-3's (I wrote a how-to thread on this,) had a tire repair for a nail in the tread, and replaced rear brake pads.
• 9/21 8700 mi - Broken Radiator Fan. Replaced with Spal aftermarket fan. See Fan Fail thread. Did a full coolant replace since I was in there.
• 9/21 8700 mi - Cracks in TTC front upper a-arms. To be replaced with new. Pics in Lift Thread.
• 10/21 8895 mi - replaced front right upper ball joint, front brakes, and greased front wheel bearings. Upgraded front shock springs to 250 lb single rate.
• 11/21 9900 mi -added Vision-X light cannons
• 12/21 9996 mi - put her in storage for the Winter, 4 miles shy of 10k

to be continued...

 

[njstang87]

Dave,

I'd love to get your thoughts and opinion on the 814 vs Fox shocks. I'm looking for something to smooth out the ride when I'm riding rocky terrain (dry creek beds) at 15-20 mph. Most of the rocks are bowling ball size and smaller. Awesome machine you have there.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Dave,

thoughts and opinion on the 814 vs Fox shocks...

I wrote a good bit about them in the lift/shock build thread, but the gist is that I wouldn't recommend the 814s to anyone. I mean, if someone ran around on flat trails or roads all the time, I guess they're an upgrade over stock. They used to be under $900 just last year, now they're only a few bucks less than the fox's on that Ron Ayers deal. (Edit: I forgot, they're actually almost $100 MORE than the Fox's!) Complete no-brainer between the two.

I thought the 814s were horrible. My buddy that rides with me all the time said it best: "I feel like I'm riding on the shock. I want to feel like I'm riding in the shock."

P1000 - P1K5Dave's TTC 3" Lift and Fox Shock Install

Edit 6/25/21 - I was originally going with the C-fab arms. I changed direction to the Texas Tough Customs kit. Edit 7/24/21 - Removed 814 Trail Series and replaced with Fox QS3s. just decided to blow a wad of money to upgrade my suspension. The parts are on order, and both companies are...

hondasxs.com

 

[mlynch001]

On many forums I hear some people raving about how "Good" the 814's are. Then there there are others, including Dave here that say the exact opposite. One thing that concerns me is the fact that some people have had to admit to buying these and then are brave enough to admit that they were wrong and made an expensive mistake. It is much more common for people to spend big money for something, then tell you how "good" such and such product is, only to "Save Face". Thanks Dave, for giving your honest opinion.

 

[P1K5Dave]

It cost me $370 to ride on them for a month, so that blows. When the good Fox price came up, I figured the loss would put me at about what I would have paid for Fox's anyway, so whatever.

I'm much happier with the ride now.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I popped a front axle last night.

Just a dumb brain fart moment where I was in 4 high and went to do a 3 point turn. When I hit reverse I punched the throttle a bit and the steering wheel spun to a hard left, and bang. I knew what happened immediately. I forgot I was in 4wd, otherwise it wouldn't have been a problem.

Stock axles are OK with the TTC kit, but not under that extreme torque at full flex.

Good excuse to go to Rhino 2s for both front axles anyway.

 

[P1K5Dave]

@SuperATV do you think a Rhino 2.0 would have been able to take such abuse? I didn't put steering bumps in because I didn't want to lose turning radius. I'm normally very careful about turning when in 4wd, but this was just a fluke and the steering wheel spun on me.

Don't the R2's have something like 30% more flexion?

 

[Russ989]

@SuperATV do you think a Rhino 2.0 would have been able to take such abuse? I didn't put steering bumps in because I didn't want to lose turning radius. I'm normally very careful about turning when in 4wd, but this was just a fluke and the steering wheel spun on me.

Don't the R2's have something like 30% more flexion?

Rhino axles are tough but keep in mind that when you strengthen the axles the diff takes on some of the stress.

 

[SuperATV]

@SuperATV do you think a Rhino 2.0 would have been able to take such abuse? I didn't put steering bumps in because I didn't want to lose turning radius. I'm normally very careful about turning when in 4wd, but this was just a fluke and the steering wheel spun on me.

Don't the R2's have something like 30% more flexion?

Definitely. There's waaaay more articulation in the 2.0 than a stock axle. You wouldn't have bound up a 2.0.

Rhino axles are tough but keep in mind that when you strengthen the axles the diff takes on some of the stress.

This is very true, and won of the reasons we taut the 2.0 as the best of the best. Its designed to be right there at the brink...and still be the fuse before popping your diff or trans. Now...I've seen plenty of blown diffs and transmissions....but in normal conditions 2.0 should always go out right before the diff or tans. You get lots of guys in the mud world that have to have the best of the best....but if you throw an $800 RCV axle in there...the trans or diff is definitely going before that axle. Nothing wrong with RCV though. They make the strongest axle out there, hands down.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Some notes on brake wear:

I replaced my rear pads yesterday @ 1514 miles since these were new. My schedule has me replacing brakes at 1200 miles, and this validates that I should have done them 300 miles ago. They were shot:

I checked the front pads last week, they still looked decent. I'll have the front end apart within a week, and I'll measure the pads then. I'm wondering if I can run 2400 miles on the front so I'll only need to swap them out every other time. It seems unlikely, but we'll see...

 

[P1K5Dave]

More on brakes:

I was buying the NICHE brand pads from the crony corporatist Amazon. Back in July and October 2020 I was paying $42 for a full set, all four wheels. Now they're over double that price, at $90.

Then I ran the Ransoto from the same fascist site back in May, they're at $65 for a full set.

This last time, I went with rear only and used the Road Passion (premium) for $34 (rear only.)

I've been reading that the very expensive brake pads wear out just as fast, so there's no reason to sink the extra money into them. I'll try different brands and get better at documenting so I can see if there's any difference.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Interesting - I just went off and did a search to see what else was out there in brake pads, and I found this site selling the NICHE brand for $30, full set of four, with free shipping. That's a pretty damn good deal. I ordered a set, let's see if they come through.

Brake Pad Kit for Honda Pioneer 1000 1000-5 06451-HL4-A01 Complete

In-Stock Replacement Parts for Honda | Pioneer 1000 Pioneer 1000-5

partdiscounter.com

 

[mlynch001]

Interesting - I just went off and did a search to see what else was out there in brake pads, and I found this site selling the NICHE brand for $30, full set of four, with free shipping. That's a pretty damn good deal. I ordered a set, let's see if they come through.

Brake Pad Kit for Honda Pioneer 1000 1000-5 06451-HL4-A01 Complete

In-Stock Replacement Parts for Honda | Pioneer 1000 Pioneer 1000-5

partdiscounter.com

Dave,

I am running those exact pads on my 2016 P1K-5D. So far, no complaints. Quiet and they stop just fine. I have about 1000 miles on them, so far and they seem to have plenty of pad left. Time will tell. If they hold up, I will buy them again.

 

[TripleB]

More on brakes:

I was buying the NICHE brand pads from the crony corporatist Amazon. Back in July and October 2020 I was paying $42 for a full set, all four wheels. Now they're over double that price, at $90.

Then I ran the Ransoto from the same fascist site back in May, they're at $65 for a full set.

This last time, I went with rear only and used the Road Passion (premium) for $34 (rear only.)

I've been reading that the very expensive brake pads wear out just as fast, so there's no reason to sink the extra money into them. I'll try different brands and get better at documenting so I can see if there's any difference.

I've bought 2 sets of these but they were much cheaper than $90. One set said organic and they lasted about 2 rides. The other metalic set about 600 miles. I bought a set of race driven pads and got 600-800 miles out of them. My original OEM pads had about 3200 miles on them. I just started buying OEM pads. My last OEM pads probably had 2000-2500 miles. I ride in a lot of mud and water so the cheaper pads would have to perform better in less nasty conditions.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I am running those exact pads on my 2016 P1K-5D. So far, no complaints. Quiet and they stop just fine.

Those are niche Ransoto in the pics above. I max out around 1200 miles. Rear wears nearly 2x as fast as front.

<edited to correct that the pictured were Ransoto, not Niche.>

 

[P1K5Dave]

@TripleB - I may have to try a set of OEM again. They're running about $130 a set vs $30 for these niche, so they'd have to really outlast them to make it worth the cost...

There is my time to install to factor in, but I'm getting pretty fast at doing them.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I get a lot of sandy mud in there, native to my environment.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I just noticed that Organic / metallic thing with the Niche pads. On that partsdiscounter site they sell both, the semi-metallic are $1 more than the organic.

 

[TripleB]

I just noticed that Organic / metallic thing with the Niche pads. On that partsdiscounter site they sell both, the semi-metallic are $1 more than the organic.

Don't get the organic lol