not confused was referencing the 2010 rhino forum where the guy added a air shock to the coil over . i understand completely the articulation bonus with the air shock.
It would be a valve in an air line that crosses over from one shock to the other that could be closed to isolate each shock, or when open, would allow the shocks to share 'see' airflow between them so that when going over very rough terrain- deep ruts, rocks, etc., the shock that is being compressed would force excess pressure through the line into the other shock, helping to plant the other wheel more firmly on the ground, and it also allows the shock being compressed to do so with less resistance because the air pressure would equalize between the shocks allowing for better articulation and evenly spreads weight to both wheels= traction. With the valve closed, it would help cornering, and reduce body roll by not allowing pressure to leave the shock being compressed and have the same effect as a 'progressive' spring, since air pressure will increase exponentially as the shock compresses. Since I presently have mine set up with a single fill point, my shocks 'see' each other all the time. Body roll isn't terrible, but it's noticeable, and my rsb is removed which probably isn't helping much. Hope this helps.
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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You're very welcome! Yes, check out this panel mount valve on ebay. Item [HASHTAG]#182040029851[/HASHTAG]. You could use a 12v solenoid valve and a switch instead, but I didn't want to add more trouble prone electronics than absolutely necessary to my machine. I work on boats for a living, so I see what water does to all that stuff every day. I try to live by the K.I.S.S. principal. - 8 air shocks, 6 air valves, an air compressor, air lines, adapters, pressure gauge, home fab'd mounts and bushings is simple.. RIGHT? It's a disease, not an addiction
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Lol, thank you! I'll be gathering the components over the next few weeks and doing this mod when I'm in my buddy's shop doing a bunch of other mods in January. I'm probably not done picking your brain on this, but I'll be easy on you and not abuse the privilege.You're very welcome! Yes, check out this panel mount valve on ebay. Item [HASHTAG]#182040029851[/HASHTAG]. You could use a 12v solenoid valve and a switch instead, but I didn't want to add more trouble prone electronics than absolutely necessary to my machine. I work on boats for a living, so I see what water does to all that stuff every day. I try to live by the K.I.S.S. principal. - 8 air shocks, 6 air valves, an air compressor, air lines, adapters, pressure gauge, home fab'd mounts and bushings is simple.. RIGHT? It's a disease, not an addiction
C
Chooglin
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I had some time to work on the rear shock install tonight. I will be welding brackets on tomorrow night.
I should have some pics to post tomorrow to show the progress
I should have some pics to post tomorrow to show the progress
C
Chooglin
Guest
Finished up the drivers side tonight and tac welded the passenger side. I will finish this up tomorrow and take it for a spin on Friday
I will report back with my thoughts on the new setup !!!
I will report back with my thoughts on the new setup !!!
iowaguy
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Just wondering what angle you are mounting the springs and how you came up with that angle to be the most effective,
C
Chooglin
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I never really tried to come up with a certain angle to use. The first time I mounted them , there was way to much angle (roughly 45*). My only option was to move the top Mount ,to the outside of the frame. There is now less angle than the stock setup.
I really think (as someone has mentioned already) it's best to keep the bottom mount inward on the a-arm.
In order to keep/retain the stock mounts , i had to make new mounts and reposition them !
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iowaguy
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There is a formula they use for shocks,l think straight up is full usage, on a 200 lb shock would be getting the full use ,put that same shock at 20 degree you are getting 80 percent ,once you get down to 45 degree you are getting,50 percent or 100 lbs. out of your shock, but being they are adjustable it probably isn't as important.
The brackets fit perfectly- Nice job! Good pictures too, thanks for that, it's given me a little more insight for mounting my air shocks. Looking forward to your first ride results.
C
Chooglin
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Thanks guys , if it ends up not working out , at least the stock mounts have more bracing on them now..........lol
C
Chooglin
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Completed the suspension upgrade today and went for a spin.
My thoughts are , these spring are just to Damn stiff , stiffer than a "morning woody"
So I will be on a quest to find some softer coils to put on the progressive shocks.If anybody knows of a softer coil that will fit these shocks , please let me know !
The coils that are on these shocks are rated at 285/485 . I would like to try a spring rated around 200/350 !!!
My thoughts are , these spring are just to Damn stiff , stiffer than a "morning woody"
So I will be on a quest to find some softer coils to put on the progressive shocks.If anybody knows of a softer coil that will fit these shocks , please let me know !
The coils that are on these shocks are rated at 285/485 . I would like to try a spring rated around 200/350 !!!
ehart814
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Well that's a bummer.... This hasn't been the easiest of projects for you...
C
Chooglin
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No it hasn't , but I have enjoyed doing it and not sorry I did it. Hopefully we have all learned from it.
The reason I am convinced it's the coils and not the bracket setup , if you look at this picture of a stock Rhino rear suspension, it is much like the setup I have now. The top mounts are welded to the outside of the top frame and the bottom is outward on the a-arm. The angle of the shocks even look the same or very close to the same !
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Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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I have 250 lbs 12" 1.88" id springs from front shocks. Can u use them?
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
C
Chooglin
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@solrus I will check the ID and length of the springs and get back with you. If they will work , I would be interested in them.
Are they dual rate springs ?
