J
All good, FB sucks at times but full of good info.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All good, FB sucks at times but full of good info.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for taking the time to make the video @Duckhunt . I really hope grinding these teeth off become a trend because the machine behaves differently with them gone, and that would help the P5 reputation some.
The poly bushings is fantastic info! Would you mind posting this stuff in the P500 - P-500 Air Suspension Mod- JWB Mod thread? I'll start putting links to the new air shock thread in here so if anyone wants to do the air shock mod, they can find all this fantastic information in one place!
About the 'two valves' thing. I may be misunderstanding this, but you can't combine the front and rear systems together. If you do, the rear will drop, and the front will immediately top out, as rear pressure needs to be (I'm guesstimating) about 140psi, and the front about 75psi (average light load) The front and rear have to be isolated from each-other. However, you can join the rear, side to side, or the front, side to side. Not both at the same time though, cuz the machine will have zero 'roll' resistance, and will just lean stupidly to the heavy side. Unfortunately, if you do four corner air shocks, I think you have to have four separate valves minimum if you have a single fill point. I have six valves on mine. I'm going to go do a video to show just how I have done this to make it clearer, but it doesn't mean my way is the only way. There are different types of valves that can do multiple functions.
LMAO!! Just hadn't thought of it... seems wrong on so many levels, buuut........I am somewhat disappointed that you do not already have train horns... Jus sayin
Thanks for the help with the new thread!
When I initially went to a four corner set-up, I had four fill points, and all the shocks were isolated till I got all the fittings I needed to connect the valves. Prior to that, I had the fronts 'seeing' each-other all the time with one fill point, but I still had the stock shocks on rear, so there was still a lot of body roll resistance. You can't have the front set 'seeing' each-other side to side, if the rear set is also the same way, even if isolated from the front, due to complete lack of body roll resistance. It will just lean to the side with the most weight, unless you over-pressure the shocks to the top of their travel....
D
Duckhunt
Guest
Thanks for the tips @JWB & @pFive. I was under the impression you'd open both so fronts and rears see each other when the trail got hairy. Just use the valve(s) to fill the fronts together and rears together so they match correct? Then close the valves. Maybe I will just fill the rears separately and have no valve to combine them.
My project is put on mini-hold because some fittings never showed up, but should tomorrow. However we're headed out of town next weekend (Duck Opener!!!) so probably won't install it until the next week. I just threw the stock shocks back in and tires on so I could use my garage for hunting prep this week. I did a test tonight quick with no sway bar and control arm teeth removed. Already made a difference!
My project is put on mini-hold because some fittings never showed up, but should tomorrow. However we're headed out of town next weekend (Duck Opener!!!) so probably won't install it until the next week. I just threw the stock shocks back in and tires on so I could use my garage for hunting prep this week. I did a test tonight quick with no sway bar and control arm teeth removed. Already made a difference!
I want to share the experience I'm having with the new "delco" shocks. I've put about 120 miles on them in various terrain- mostly the mountain trails in VA. and WV. First thing I've noticed is that they seem to ride a little better than the previous set, but that may be because they're new. The second thing is that they don't seem to have the same load lifting power as the previous set, particularly in the rear, and mostly on the passenger side. With me and the Princess, and full tank of gas, 4 gallons of gas in the box, it will not pick up the passenger side rear. The fronts will still lift the machine quickly all the way to the top of their travel. This set up has always required more pressure in the rear due to rear shocks having more angle, and as the shocks compress, the angle increases, and makes the situation worse. The fronts will still 'jump' up even when the machine is loaded and going down a very steep slope. I'm still not comfortable with the limit strap set-up, but so far they are working fine, and haven't affected the performance of the machine in any noticeable way. We've got another day of riding, but when I get the machine home, I've got to figure out why the passenger side is so weak, and I think I want to move the mount points to make the shock angles on the rear the same as the fronts- if that's possible to do without over extending the control arms. If I can do this, it would lower the air pressure needed on the rears substantially, and solve the load carrying capacity issue that the other guys who've done the four corner set up have mentioned as well. As an added bonus, lowering the average pressure would also help in keeping the shocks from ripping themselves apart on full extensions...
Last edited:
C
Chooglin
Guest
@JWB I still have some of the shock mounting brackets that I had made when I was trying to use the Progressive shocks on the rear of my machine. I think these would work great for your application to mount the dual air shocks on the rear.
p5 suspension
Last edited by a moderator:
@Chooglin ! I totally forgot you had made those mounts..Those may be the ticket! Heading home in the morning, but probably won't do anything with the machine till next wknd- it's gonna be a busy week
. Vacations never seem to be long enough....
M
I just found this thread, and have gone through it. It contains some great info. I know there are some issues with the arm bushings and have started looking into modifying the upper and lower arms by cutting the bushing off, welding a threaded bung on each tube. This would allow the use of a Currie Johnny Joint to replace the bushing. The JJ's are used a lot in the Jeep Wrangler world for suspension arms. I have them on my Wrangler, and they provide excellent flex and adjustability to the suspension. They also help with binding etc. The frame mount might need to be changed also, due to the size of the joint, but that would not be all that difficult. Currie makes several size JJ's and am sure one could be adapted to work with the P5. Any input from you guys would be greatly appreciated because I am sure I have missed something.
JACKAL
Ancient Honda fanboi
Moderator
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Any problems with OEM Honda bushings is the exception rather than the rule, there are literally machines decades old running that design without issues. Now those that use the machine like a crawdad and subject it to underwater mud and sand likely have far lower life expectancy, just like the brake pads. I read people getting only 300 to 400 miles out of brake pads that are in constant deep mud but then see many getting 2000 miles. It all depends upon how you use the machine. I would certainly not try to fix it if it isn't broken. For every person online crying about problems (misery loves company and a social media audience) there are 100 that are enjoying the machines without issues and not posting about it, something to consider. Of course some people aren't satisfied unless they fix it until it breaks so if that's your thing have at it.
M
Mine has been great with the mods that I have made. I dont drive underwater or mud up to the roof. I drive in rocky, mountain land. It was a question about suspension travel, and someone in a thread mentioned having issues with the joints. Now how true that is I dont know, as I have only had mine a year. I also know that adding a JJ would not mod it until it brakes. They are some of the most proven joints available and have been proven over many years in the offroad world. There are many cars that run them at King of the Hammers event every year. I know that they will allow for more suspension flex, and with that you could add additional travel.
You will only have bushing issues if you do the air-shock set up due to the dramatic increase in suspension travel that the contol arm bushings were not designed to deal with. Check out this link- you'll see why, and some other good information in regards to the control arm bushings
P500 - P-500 Air Suspension Mod- JWB Mod
Started this thread to put all the data, info, experiences, recommendations, etc., to install the Gabriel Hi-jackers(Part #49304) or AC Delco air ride shocks (Part #504557) to completely replace the stock P-500 shocks. The least expensive, and simplest version of this set up, is to just replace...
hondasxs.com
M
