Pioneer 13 code

[Downeyd24]

You want me to send you a fuel injector wire kit for free?
Click here and give me your address - https://hondasxs.com/conversations/add?to=hondasxs

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Results?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Downeyd24]

View attachment 320468

I installed the new connector, but no change in the machine. It will only run 1-2 seconds.

 

[Downeyd24]

Results?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

No change.

 

[PJon]

I know that there is a full troubleshooting post in here somewhere that I used to find the problem a year or so ago. It takes you through the process of checking the injectors themselves and the goes on to explain the procedure to check all of way back to the ECU. I found the posts. Now if I can just get them to insert correctly…

 

[Downeyd24]

I know that there is a full troubleshooting post in here somewhere that I used to find the problem a year or so ago. It takes you through the process of checking the injectors themselves and the goes on to explain the procedure to check all of way back to the ECU. I found the posts. Now if I can just get them to insert correctly…View attachment 320509View attachment 320508View attachment 320509

Thank you so much! I went through this before changing the plug, but I will do it again and see if anything has changed.

 

[PJon]

In reality, a broken wire could be anywhere in the harness. Most common ,however seems to be near the injectors. If you go through the trouble shooting guide again and still have a fault, you might try replacing the entire wire from the injector connector to the ECU connector. There is supposed to be a way to pull the pins/sockets out of the connectors. This type of trouble shooting is a PITA, but eventually the problem will be found. If you take it to a Honda dealer, I understand that they’ll want to replace the entire wiring harness.

 

[Hondasxs]

I tried to research why it works in start but not run.
Mostly looking into the wire harness layout.
I know there is a power cutoff for certain items like the head lights and tail lights.
I would assume it may cut power to a few other items as well when in the start position.
This could explain why it runs there and not in the run position.
However its a can of worms and I am unable to track anything down.
Looks like there are both positive and negative triggers that have a play on the inhibitor and starter relay.

 

[Downeyd24]

I know that there is a full troubleshooting post in here somewhere that I used to find the problem a year or so ago. It takes you through the process of checking the injectors themselves and the goes on to explain the procedure to check all of way back to the ECU. I found the posts. Now if I can just get them to insert correctly…View attachment 320509View attachment 320508View attachment 320509

Do you know how to reset the DCM?

I tried to research why it works in start but not run.
Mostly looking into the wire harness layout.
I know there is a power cutoff for certain items like the head lights and tail lights.
I would assume it may cut power to a few other items as well when in the start position.
This could explain why it runs there and not in the run position.
However its a can of worms and I am unable to track anything down.
Looks like there are both positive and negative triggers that have a play on the inhibitor and starter relay.

It definitely has me scratching my head. Both injectors have between 11.8-12.2 ohms of resistance. Both signal wires have continuity all the way back to ECM. Both plugs have battery voltage at Red wire and ground with key on.

I tried to research why it works in start but not run.
Mostly looking into the wire harness layout.
I know there is a power cutoff for certain items like the head lights and tail lights.
I would assume it may cut power to a few other items as well when in the start position.
This could explain why it runs there and not in the run position.
However its a can of worms and I am unable to track anything down.
Looks like there are both positive and negative triggers that have a play on the inhibitor and starter relay.

I tried to research why it works in start but not run.
Mostly looking into the wire harness layout.
I know there is a power cutoff for certain items like the head lights and tail lights.
I would assume it may cut power to a few other items as well when in the start position.
This could explain why it runs there and not in the run position.
However its a can of worms and I am unable to track anything down.
Looks like there are both positive and negative triggers that have a play on the inhibitor and starter relay.

 

[Downeyd24]

I tried to research why it works in start but not run.
Mostly looking into the wire harness layout.
I know there is a power cutoff for certain items like the head lights and tail lights.
I would assume it may cut power to a few other items as well when in the start position.
This could explain why it runs there and not in the run position.
However its a can of worms and I am unable to track anything down.
Looks like there are both positive and negative triggers that have a play on the inhibitor and starter relay.

It definitely has me scratching my head. Both injectors have between 11.8-12.2 ohms of resistance. Both signal wires have continuity all the way back to ECU. Both plugs have battery voltage at Red wire and ground with key on. I guess I need to try and find a ECU to barrow to eliminate that as a possibility.

 

[HondaTech]

Does everything else work in "Run"?

 

[Downeyd24]

Does everything else work in "Run"?

Everything else seems to work perfect.

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

I am not a schematic guru like some of these guys, but you said.

I just thought it was odd that it will run fine in start position but not run. I made up a disconnect to take power from the starter and it is fine until I let the switch go to run.

So, you are saying it will stay running, like normal, with starter not spinning because of your disconnect, with the key in the start position?
By some weird chance is the fuel pump ONLY getting power when the key is in the start position? When you turn the key on, do you here the fuel pump running?
.
Have a good day

 

[Downeyd24]

I know that there is a full troubleshooting post in here somewhere that I used to find the problem a year or so ago. It takes you through the process of checking the injectors themselves and the goes on to explain the procedure to check all of way back to the ECU. I found the posts. Now if I can just get them to insert correctly…View attachment 320509View attachment 320508View attachment 320509

Do you know how to reset the DCM?

I am not a schematic guru like some of these guys, but you said.

So, you are saying it will stay running, like normal, with starter not spinning because of your disconnect, with the key in the start position?
By some weird chance is the fuel pump ONLY getting power when the key is in the start position? When you turn the key on, do you here the fuel pump running?
.
Have a good day

The fuel pump does run when the key is turned from off to run.

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

ok
It runs and idles as normal, with the key in the start position, but not the run position.
The fuel pump is working, and your injector wires are ok.
.
You got air, you got fuel, that only leaves spark.
.
So, someone with mad schematic wizardry is gonna have to trace down where/how the power gets to the coils and when. Gut feeling is that something munched a wire from the ignition switch run position.
.
Have a good day

 

[Downeyd24]

ok
It runs and idles as normal, with the key in the start position, but not the run position.
The fuel pump is working, and your injector wires are ok.
.
You got air, you got fuel, that only leaves spark.
.
So, someone with mad schematic wizardry is gonna have to trace down where/how the power gets to the coils and when. Gut feeling is that something munched a wire from the ignition switch run position.
.
Have a good day

Do you know how to reset the ECU?

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

Have never needed to myself.
Researching google, this forum, and other forums.....
.
I did read over on a Talon Forum.

https://www.talonsxsforums.com/threads/electrical-problems-causing-engine-not-to-start.1740/

The second poster said.
"The first thing I would do is disconnect both battery leads and hold the positive and negative leads together for at least 30 seconds to discharge the capacitors and force a hard computer reset."
.
I have also read about unhooking the batteries, turn on the key, and stepping on the brake pedal for 30 seconds.
.
So, with the information found, and not knowing the CORRECT/BOOK way,
This is how I would do it. It is at least a safe way, that you won't burn something up.
.
.........Edit to add, unhook the negative cables FIRST
1) Unhook ALL battery cables from primary and secondary batteries.
2) Turn on ignition key, and hold down brake pedal for 30 seconds.
3) Hold together positive and negative battery cables for 30 seconds.
4) Turn off ignition key.
5) Connect positive cables, then connect negative cables.
.
Have a good day

 

[Downeyd24]

I have installed new harnesses for injectors, switched injectors to opposite cylinders, and installed new fuel pump assembly. Anyone have any other ideas? I removed injectors and they both spray well when engine cranks. Engine still runs 3-5 and stalls.

 

[Neohio]

Can you confirm the dash is no longer flashing the 13 code?
Have you checked all your underhood fuses?
Do you have a wiring diagram or manual to check operation of the ignition switch?

 

[Downeyd24]

Can you confirm the dash is no longer flashing the 13 code?
Have you checked all your underhood fuses?
Do you have a wiring diagram or manual to check operation of the ignition switch?

The dash does still flash code 13. All the fuses are good and I did find a diagram and checked switch operation. I am really at a loss.