P1000m5 Rock Donkey v2 Long Travel

[Ragnar406]

No the surge only has an input. Should have bought the Stealth but thought the switch would offer a convenience.
Price was same.
I Prime’d a radio. I’ll see in a few days.

I always find the audio lower through Bluetooth connections on pretty much any device vs plugging it in... but I still Bluetooth connect...

 

[Admin]

 

[ohanacreek]

I always find the audio lower through Bluetooth connections on pretty much any device vs plugging it in... but I still Bluetooth connect...

I haven’t noticed a difference and yours and Joeys were still both louder even using the same phone and music.

It’s the Bluetooth switch, I know it. The radio will confirm it when the sub and bar each have a full pre-amp output signal. I’m wondering what the draw will be at that point I’m guessing it will be around 30amps.

 

[JACKAL]

I haven’t noticed a difference and yours and Joeys were still both louder even using the same phone and music.

It’s the Bluetooth switch, I know it. The radio will confirm it when the sub and bar each have a full pre-amp output signal. I’m wondering what the draw will be at that point I’m guessing it will be around 30amps.

I know this is going to sound stupid but..... Everytime I connect my phone via bluetooth with truck with Synch3 or MTX sound bar my media volume defaults to 75% and I have to turn it up on the phone to get full volume output level. I assume you have tried that?

 

[ohanacreek]

I know this is going to sound stupid but..... Everytime I connect my phone via bluetooth with truck with Synch3 or MTX sound bar my media volume defaults to 75% and I have to turn it up on the phone to get full volume output level. I assume you have tried that?

Yes, the switch actually controls the phone volume so changing volume on the phone is only way to control volume.

All the way up different eq settings in phone. The switch simply isn’t designed for two a sub and bar (according to WetSounds) but they sell it in combos....then advise you buy a $400 EQ to go along with it.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

View attachment 73068

Let the modifications begin...






@joeymt33 is an expensive friend...but his door storage is another idea I’m going to steal. I’m glad he has the time to figure all this stuff out for us to use.
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That door thing is one of my favorite ideas. I wish I could do it on a 3 seater

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[Cuoutdoors]

I wanted to drop the lightbar and clean up the front of the machine to make it easier to see close in on technical trails. The through the hood snorkel forced me to have the lightbar mounted higher and more forward than I wanted to be able to get the hood off.

I grabbed some flex intake duct and bulkhead fittings and ran the intake through the right front fender. The fitting and snorkel on top of the fender is temporary until I weld up a new snorkel so it sits more level and is braced off the ROPS since it’s so close to the side.

View attachment 74602 View attachment 74603 View attachment 74601

With this setup I dropped the lightbar to about ⅛” off the bumper and, ⅜” off the hood using the weldable clamps. It gets it down and as out of the way as I can and still remove the hood. It also doesn’t shake like before and should be a more stable mount for the VIRB.

I really want a GOOD 18” lightbar that will sit right down on the upper bumper bar but I’ll save that for another day.

My powder showed up a few mins ago so I can get the all the mounts and a couple other things power coated tomorrow.
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I really like where you put the snorkel. I never ran mine through the hood because I didn't want the hassle. I may have to try this design out.

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[ohanacreek]

I really like where you put the snorkel. I never ran mine through the hood because I didn't want the hassle. I may have to try this design out.

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Thanks I like it better its way easier to see right in front with it there but it took a min to work up courage to cut the fender but I made sure the hose would fit several times before I took a drill to it to mount each side.

I am going to make a better connector out of metal and powerdcoat it. I think the plastic bulkhead connectors are too brittle

 

[ohanacreek]

That door thing is one of my favorite ideas. I wish I could do it on a 3 seater

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@joeymt33 gets all the credit for that one he had the awareness to try it and the guts/stupidity to cut a gaping hole in a door.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

@joeymt33 gets all the credit for that one he had the awareness to try it and the guts/stupidity to cut a gaping hole in a door.

Yeah I know. The man deserves an award for sure. He should start making and selling them. Trim out the hole and put a custom logo on the panel. BOOM! I wondered if you could stick some flexible insulation to the inside and put a plug in the bottom you would have a hidden cooler. @joeymt33

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[ohanacreek]

Yeah I know. The man deserves an award for sure. He should start making and selling them. Trim out the hole and put a custom logo on the panel. BOOM! I wondered if you could stick some flexible insulation to the inside and put a plug in the bottom you would have a hidden cooler. @joeymt33

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I have a 4x8 sheet of ¼" HDPE I'll give him to attempt it...

Actually thats a really good idea, I wonder if a plastics shop could heat some HDPE and after putting insulation in there, make it fill the space? then have a gamma type lid to seal the cooler. Need a drain somehow.

 

[ohanacreek]

Crap before I start on the tailgate cooler rack I may try to get a volume guesstimate of the empty door.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Crap before I start on the tailgate cooler rack I may try to get a volume guesstimate of the empty door.

I bet it will hold a 6 pack

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[Cuoutdoors]

Crap before I start on the tailgate cooler rack I may try to get a volume guesstimate of the empty door.

It's a little crude but after insulating you could use a large waterproof stuff sack. Put it in the hole then fill with ice and drinks. When you're done you can pull ice and water right out the hole.

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[joeymt33]

@joeymt33 gets all the credit for that one he had the awareness to try it and the guts/stupidity to cut a gaping hole in a door.

And I will pass some of the credit to CP because he was the inspiration with his tailgate storage.

 

[Firemedic530]

Would you guys be willing to start a new thread for just the door modification?
I did a search when I first read about it in this thread and didn't find anything. I had to go through @joeymt33 build thread in his garage to find what you were talking about. I'm sure a lot of guys will be doing this, myself included, and am curious to see how guys tweak it to make it their own.

Thank you. Tim

 

[Hondasxs]

Would you guys be willing to start a new thread for just the door modification?

Ya, we need to. This is a great mod. I am thinking about doing mine too.

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[ohanacreek]

Would you guys be willing to start a new thread for just the door modification?
I did a search when I first read about it in this thread and didn't find anything. I had to go through @joeymt33 build thread in his garage to find what you were talking about. I'm sure a lot of guys will be doing this, myself included, and am curious to see how guys tweak it to make it their own.

Thank you. Tim

I put “1000-5 rear door mod” at the bottom of my original post.

When I get to a computer I’ll try to copy them into a new thread.

 

[ohanacreek]

Copied the relevant posts from Traveller II and Rock Donkey threads to a new thread and made it a sticky 1000-5 Rear Door Storage Modification

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Can you post some pics of how you routed your snorkel to the fender. I'll likely be doing that shortly. Thanks

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[ohanacreek]

Can you post some pics of how you routed your snorkel to the fender. I'll likely be doing that shortly. Thanks

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It goes under the fender and has this same bulkhead type connector on the bottom.

This is 3” flex intake from Advance Auto
and cheap plastic bulkhead connectors. I’m working on a 3” steel bulkhead connector at the moment if I can ever get the time to finish it up. I may make a steel snorkel and brace it off the ROPS to keep from tearing up the fender if a big branch gets it.