I am going to have to do this, that is just too much wasted space not to take advantage of it.Decided to copy @joeymt33 door mod and I cut holes in the rear doors. Wow those things are cavernous. All the gear I usually carry in the bed can now be stored away in the doors once I get different storage bags that fit better. Hopefully it stays cleaner, the extra gear weight is much lower, doors don’t rattle, and the bed is free to be cargo or people much easier than before when I had to rearrange everything or pile stuff on top of other stuff.
The ONLY a downside I see is if I am leaned into the door panel that has my recovery gear stored in it. I may keep a short tree saver and block in the glove compartment.
I ended up mounting the stainless hinge to the plastic panel first. Then remounting it to the door taking a piece of masking tape and lining it up along the bottom side of the hinge marking each end then removing the panel and lining the hinge up so that it was in the same place. A few rivets later and she’s done it was quick, maybe 30-45 mins.
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I am going to have to do this, that is just too much wasted space not to take advantage of it.
Do you think a scissor jack will fit in there? I have pretty much decided this is the route i want to go as wellDecided to copy @joeymt33 door mod and I cut holes in the rear doors. Wow those things are cavernous. All the gear I usually carry in the bed can now be stored away in the doors once I get different storage bags that fit better. Hopefully it stays cleaner, the extra gear weight is much lower, doors don’t rattle, and the bed is free to be cargo or people much easier than before when I had to rearrange everything or pile stuff on top of other stuff.
The ONLY a downside I see is if I am leaned into the door panel that has my recovery gear stored in it. I may keep a short tree saver and block in the glove compartment.
I ended up mounting the stainless hinge to the plastic panel first. Then remounting it to the door taking a piece of masking tape and lining it up along the bottom side of the hinge marking each end then removing the panel and lining the hinge up so that it was in the same place. A few rivets later and she’s done it was quick, maybe 30-45 mins.
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Do you think a scissor jack will fit in there? I have pretty much decided this is the route i want to go as well
I held mine up to it and it looked like it would...its the only tging i questioned getting in there so i can eliminate my huge toolboxI think so I don’t have one to try though.
Don't have a daughter, if I did and she thought ear rings were cool, I would get fakes, HA! Love kids, waiting on grand kids, I may have to grow up then, well while I'm around them1After seeing all the whips through dust and trees I am sold on their usefulness on night rides. I still think they look stupid but if they work, they work.
I wasn’t paying $300 for a set so I got on Amazon and picked up the parts and pieces for about $80, and an hours worth of work. I COULD have saved about $30 but I wanted them to be installed/removed in less than a couple mins and looking back that could have been accomplished a slightly different, and $30 cheaper way.
I have them wired with a 3-wire weatherproof connector that I can seal off when they aren’t mounted.
Only going to use them if night riding or daughter wants them on, she thinks they are “awecool”. I’ll take her thinking dad is cool as long as I can get it even if I’m really not.
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Don't have a daughter, if I did and she thought ear rings were cool, I would get fakes, HA! Love kids, waiting on grand kids, I may have to grow up then, well while I'm around them1
And other rings, most painful was ****. HA! You can have those installed almost anywhere on your body, if I ever met you I'll show you!Come on smitty.
You need an ear ring or two to go with your nose ring.
And other rings, most painful was ****. HA! You can have those installed almost anywhere on your body, if I ever met you I'll show you!
Some good researchSo my AC only clamp meter died last week and I picked up a AC/DC clamp meter. Kline CL-800 for reference. Which I checked in manner below.
My 750ma Battery Tender is putting .69amps/690ma into a battery.
My Craftman 115v source jumpbox/charger on 2amp charge is reading 2.2a/40amp fast charge is 39.1/200amp jump is 194.6 so without lab testing equipment that’s about as close to confirmation of meter accuracy as I can get.
I answered some questions I had about electrical draws and confirmed a suspicion.
A 4.9amp draw at 13.4v for the 40” “240w” amazon special which I suspected was BS from beginning considering the 16ga wire coming out of it. It’s getting replaced...takes up too much space for so little draw. DANG it the RoughCountry looks appealing.
1.2amp draw for the 18w cubes(close enough)
1.6a for bilge fan.
0.6a for Whips about right.
1.3a for rock lights, which is also far less than 7a it should be for (8)9w draw lights.
11.7a for WetSounds AS-8 sub and Surge 6 bar which tells me the amps are not working to their full capacity due to the Bluetooth switch low line level output when split. It’s still loud though so I’m curious how a different audio feed to them will change the draw as they are fused at 50a combined. Edit: (Sail-Unlimited Gravity Remix) The meter also may not be fast enough to measure spikes with music...
Winch maxes at 13.9a just free feeding line in.
Snugging the hook stopper to the fairlead peaked at 28.93.
With about 10-15’ of line out of the rear winch (both are Viper Midnight 4500lb) dragging itself up a 27* hill with brakes on I maxed at 60.18amps, I’ll try to stall it later and see what it spikes to. I’m more worried about the structure than the wire but I’d like to know what it draws just to know.
Winch is somewhere in the guesstimated ballpark of what Warn posts for their 4500lb winch.
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I've wondered but had no way to test, I suspect if I had a way to measure lumens the 40" bar would be given away and Id pick up a Rough Country which a few are "on sale" right now.Some good research
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Yeah right what it should have been close to like 20 ampsI've wondered but had no way to test, I suspect if I had a way to measure lumens the 40" bar would be given away and Id pick up a Rough Country which a few are "on sale" right now.
Yeah right what it should have been close to like 20 amps
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Was it a really cheap lightYup, I’m going to double check meter on something I know is a certain draw. Make sure I’m not measuring things wrong.
Sounds like to me you're doing it right cuz everything else is really closeYup, I’m going to double check meter on something I know is a certain draw. Make sure I’m not measuring things wrong.
Was it a really cheap light
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Sounds like to me you're doing it right cuz everything else is really close
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So does your Surge bar not have an output to go to the sub? I know the surge is different than the stealth but have not dove into how it hooks to their sub.Yeah $40 Amazon special.
I am leaning toward a 12” or 20” RoughCountry since I’m not putting pods on the front. Either way I can weld up the clamps so the bar sits right on the clamps and sits 3” lower than the 40” does and more out of the way.
I checked the meter on a 1000w pair of halogen work lights and it read right at 8amps at 123v so I’m gaining confidence in the meter.
So I tried the WetSounds with the splitter plugged directly into my iPhone and got an extra 9amps of draw. 20.89a Since you cant run more than one device from it, and they sell bars and subs with it as a combo, the WS-BT-RS is junk if it doesn’t have the signal output to run both like they are supposed to be run. It has ⅔ the signal strength of an iPhone if were just guessing off of amp draw.
I’m going to try a radio that has separate pre-amp outputs for speakers/sub and see what happens.
So does your Surge bar not have an output to go to the sub? I know the surge is different than the stealth but have not dove into how it hooks to their sub.