School me on RAM 5.7L HEMI Exhaust Manifold Kits

[Hondasxs]

Welp... Here I am AGAIN with a HEMI exhaust tick from a broken exhaust manifold bolt.
It had been a light leak for a month or so that usually closed up once hot, but now must have blown the gasket.
2016 with 80k miles, the second time replacing it.
Its the only real problem I've had, so I'm not complaining. I'll take it. lol.

So.. What are my upgrade options?
I want to replace it with something better. Something that will last.

What is this SHORTY kit I read about?

I only need the passage side, so I don't need both sides.
Factory Dorman passenger side is < $100. I can replace it a few more times vs the $500 both sides kit.

Its the bolts that are breaking... So why not get upgraded bolts and stick with the factory headers?

Advice, please.
Thanks.


Aftermarket options I found:

Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 5.7 1-3/4 Shorty Exhaust Headers Titanium Ceramic 09-18

Free Shipping on Dodge Ram 5.7 Hemi Shorty Headers 1-3/4 In. - Titanium Ceramic (09-19). Order Now and Save!

bbkperformance.com

Exhaust Shorty Header for 2009-2018 Hemi 5.7L Dodge Ram 1500 Manifold |

Exhaust Header for 2009,2010,2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016,2017,2018 Hemi 5.7L Dodge Ram 1500 Manifold Replacing or upgrading your exhaust header is necessary for both engine performance and sound. Whether on or off the track, exhaust headers provide more horsepower and improved exhaust sound...

www.godpt.com

 

[Todd627]

@Mopower58

 

[Mopower58]

I have a slight tick but have not undertaken any repairs. Ignorance is bliss I think they say.

 

[Mopower58]

After reading up on both headers, I believe I would go with the BBK brand.

 

[Tramguage1]

If you go with headers, you may have to modify the exhaust piping.
Is the manifold cracking or just the bolts breaking?

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Pretty common on the 5.7 hemi.
Our company has several 1500's on the road with the same issue. Leak when cold, stop with heat expansion. We don't fix the leaks. All are 150k milers.
Just sayin.

 

[ChadD]

I have a slight tick but have not undertaken any repairs. Ignorance is bliss I think they say.

Sounds like a Yamaha response 🤦‍♂️🤣

 

[Mopower58]

If you go with headers, you may have to modify the exhaust piping.
Is the manifold cracking or just the bolts breaking?

The BBK header says it will work with standard mid pipe. I think the manifold warps and breaks the bolt.

 

[Neohio]

Stick with the factory Dodge manifold. Contact ARP for a better/stronger hardware kit. You can put headers on if you want, but headers you will be chasing leaks for a few dozen heat cycles.

 

[JACKAL]

Stick with the factory Dodge manifold. Contact ARP for a better/stronger hardware kit. You can put headers on if you want, but headers you will be chasing leaks for a few dozen heat cycles.

Ditto on ARP studs are the way to go for heads and manifolds their reputation for durability is legendary.

 

[Neohio]

Ditto on ARP studs are the way to go for heads and manifolds their reputation for durability is legendary.

I agree, bolts or studs, they will recommend depending on application.
Stay away from the chinese knock off kits. who knows what you are buying with them.

 

[HBarlow]

That was common with the old big block V8 engines used in light trucks for towing in the '70s - '90s. The GM 454, Ford 460, and Dodge 440 broke the exhaust manifold bolts and warped the manifolds.

I think replacing the exhaust manifolds with aftermarket products probably violates federal and state emissions laws. Your state may not care but left coast wackos do. If you're going to modify the exhaust anyway, replace the entire system from manifolds to tailpipes with free-flowing pipes w/o smog crap.

I would try NEOHIO's suggestion in post #9 above. It's a cheaper fix, does not violate emissions laws, and may be a permanent cure. Pull the exhaust manifold and check the sealing surface for warping. If it's warped, mill it, replace the gasket, and install ARP bolts as suggested.

If it warps again with the ARP bolts then it would be time for a more drastic fix.

 

[Hondasxs]

If it's warped, mill it, replace the gasket, and install ARP bolts as suggested.

I'm considering this over the aftermarket headers. But I will most likely just sand it down if it's not too far off.
I read that correcting the warp is better than replacing it with a new one that will just wrap.

 

[HBarlow]

I'm considering this over the aftermarket headers. But I will most likely just sand it down if it's not too far off.
I read that correcting the warp is better than replacing it with a new one that will just wrap.

If you have a good steel straight edge to lay on the manifold's mating surface, a hardened steel file, and a short length of 2" by 6" to use as a sanding block you may be able to true it up by hand.

I agree with your thinking - if the original manifold warped it's likely a replacement will also.

 

[Hondasxs]

A 36" flat sanding belt is what I was looking at using if it's not too severe of a warp.

Regarding the ARP bolts. They don't offer the second-level bolt or whatever you call it. (Bolt on top of a bolt)

What about these stainless bolts?

More Information for DORMAN 03309HP

 

[Vikes79]

As long as you’re not messing with the cats, O2 sensors etc you aren’t changing anything emissions wise. Perfectly legal to run headers etc all you want anywhere.

I’ve have a few V8 fords, mostly the 97 to 05s had the issue off the passenger side rear or front studs rusting out due to water spray from the wheel wells.

Getting the stud out can be a real bugger especially if it’s broke off flush or below the block deck.

Aftermarket shorty headers do flow more than stock but it’s meaningless without a tuner and maybe an intake…and as said before you’re going to chase leaks likely.

The best luck I’ve had is to replace the exhaust manifold with a new oem one ( likely the old has some burning near the old broken bolt) new, gaskets, hardware and using a extreme heat copper type of sealant on both sides of the gasket.

Not a fan of sanding a warped header….impossible to get it on a flat enough surface with any consistency unless you have a section of known milled flat tool steel laying around.

 

[JACKAL]

A 36" flat sanding belt is what I was looking at using if it's not too severe of a warp.

Regarding the ARP bolts. They don't offer the second-level bolt or whatever you call it. (Bolt on top of a bolt)

What about these stainless bolts?

More Information for DORMAN 03309HP

If you have any local machine shop that does auto work like planing heads & brake rotors they typically have a huge belt sander / plane that could do the trick in just a few minutes for probably a decent price. I cannot recommend highly enough of going with genuine ARP bolts studs and your breaking bolt issue will be a memory of the past. These things exceed grade 12 and Temps over 1200 degrees.

 

[Hondasxs]

I cannot recommend highly enough of going with genuine ARP bolts studs and your breaking bolt issue will be a memory of the past.

I hear you.
I just need recommendations for the heat shield as there is no way to install it using the ARP bolts.

 

[NTCPrezJB]

I hear you.
I just need recommendations for the heat shield as there is no way to install it using the ARP bolts.

🤔 new TriggerShield product @trigger ? 🤣

 

[Neohio]

I hear you.
I just need recommendations for the heat shield as there is no way to install it using the ARP bolts.

Can you open up the hole a bit? Use a step bit.
Then use longer studs and capture with a secondary nut?