P500 Snapping Skid Bolts

[trigger]

Well sh**! Broke one last year so ordered a bunch of new ones from the Honda dealer and replaced them. Just dropped the skid plates today and snapped 3 of them. Did a little research on here and it sounds like the way to go is with nutserts. I'm going back out now to try to extract them but have never had real good luck with the easy out method. Any insight would be appreciated...nutserts type, tool brand...this blows!

 

[Admin]

 

[DG Rider]

Well sh**! Broke one last year so ordered a bunch of new ones from the Honda dealer and replaced them. Just dropped the skid plates today and snapped 3 of them. Did a little research on here and it sounds like the way to go is with nutserts. I'm going back out now to try to extract them but have never had real good luck with the easy out method. Any insight would be appreciated...nutserts type, tool brand...this blows!

Honda just uses s***ty fasteners. Broke 3-4 skid bolts on my 700 without even trying. Good news is that the broke half came out pretty easy.
The factory nutsert is pretty thin, so it's hard to drill and tap oversized. I managed to do one, but ended up going the bare minimum oversize, which happened to be SAE standard size. Your plan of quality replacement seems like a good ideal. Unfortunately, I can't comment on the brand as I have little experience with them.

I haven't even touched the 500 for just this reason.

 

[Bad_bowtie]

I cant find it now, but I seen to recall @JTW or @Neohio recommending some nutserts and tools.

 

[lee]

The threded holes for the skids are flow drilled, insted of the long winded explination see link:

(Warning, bad language and this guy is funny as s***/smart as a whip)

So the material that is threded is thin.
I pulled all the bolts and anti-seized them when new.
Not sure if this will work long term but it's what I am trying first.
If or when that fails I will probably go to weld in inserts and be done.

Note, normally honda uses weld nuts on the back side.
A square nut is projection welded (it's a resistance weld like a spot weld) on the back.
But the frame is a closed rectangular tube so there is no access to the back side to weld the nut on.
Weld in inserts are welded on the face, they add a little thickness but no one is going to see it underneath.

Other, I broke out the welder last week after probably a year or more of not needing it.
My grinding skills are good as ever (and well practiced).

 

[HUCK]

Well sh**! Broke one last year so ordered a bunch of new ones from the Honda dealer and replaced them. Just dropped the skid plates today and snapped 3 of them. Did a little research on here and it sounds like the way to go is with nutserts. I'm going back out now to try to extract them but have never had real good luck with the easy out method. Any insight would be appreciated...nutserts type, tool brand...this blows!

Why are you removing your skid plate ?

 

[Duckhunt]

I use anti seize on mine every time I remove and install. Pain in the butthole but haven’t snapped any yet. However I have had some come out hard then I run I tap through the hole and replace the bolt if it’s rusty.

 

[Lilred500]

First time I ever rode mine didn’t have a mile on it went through the creek crossing and snapped the bolts off the one on the rear diff flat pissed me off so I got them out and put new ones in also drilled a few extra holes and added some pop rivets no issues since.

 

[trigger]

Why are you removing your skid plate ?

I do it at the end of every year and sometimes after a really muddy ride. You wouldn't believe how much sh** was riding on that skid! Probably 30 lbs lighter now, leaves, sand, mud, pine needles, packed in there too and that's from one season of riding. It's a wonder it didn't catch on fire and I'd highly recommend everyone taking a look at theirs once in a while.
I'll be dealing with the ones I snapped, extract if I can and anti seizing all of them this time around.

 

[Remington]

Well sh**! Broke one last year so ordered a bunch of new ones from the Honda dealer and replaced them. Just dropped the skid plates today and snapped 3 of them. Did a little research on here and it sounds like the way to go is with nutserts. I'm going back out now to try to extract them but have never had real good luck with the easy out method. Any insight would be appreciated...nutserts type, tool brand...this blows!

Use a standard drill for a pilot hole then a reverse threaded drill bit the rest of the way. That works nicely if the easy out doesn’t. Also after drilling your hole and using an easy out, put some heat on the bolt your extracting before you put your easy out in. A little heat works wonders.

 

[trigger]

Use a standard drill for a pilot hole then a reverse threaded drill bit the rest of the way. That works nicely if the easy out doesn’t. Also after drilling your hole and using an easy out, put some heat on the bolt your extracting before you put your easy out in. A little heat works wonders.

Good sh**, thanks Remmy!

 

[Remington]

Good sh**, thanks Remmy!

Anytime

 

[Duckhunt]

I've bought these bolts for replacement and they seem very good quality. Same as SAE grade 8.
(20) M6-1.0 x 12 / M6x12 Metric Hex Flange Bolts Grade 10.9 DIN 6921 6mm x 12mm | eBay

 

[Neohio]

@trigger
This will be your bestestestestestest friend removing bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Extractor-Extractors-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW/?tag=sxsweb24-20
The left hand drills bits have a tendency to catch on the bolt and just un-thread from the frame skipping the whole extractor part of it.

I've been using JIS flanged head bolts from McMaster as replacements in mine.
If I ever get this lil construction project at home done, next is to use m6 weld nuts on my frame and get rid of nutserts or self tappers.

 

[trigger]

@trigger
This will be your bestestestestestest friend removing bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Extractor-Extractors-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=13LOVSKM9PEK3&keywords=left+hand+drill+bit+set+extractor&qid=1577996342&sprefix=left+hand+drill+bit+,aps,262&sr=8-7
The left hand drills bits have a tendency to catch on the bolt and just un-thread from the frame skipping the whole extractor part of it.

I've been using JIS flanged head bolts from McMaster as replacements in mine.
If I ever get this lil construction project at home done, next is to use m6 weld nuts on my frame and get rid of nutserts or self tappers.

Ordered, thanks Neo!

 

[trigger]

I've bought these bolts for replacement and they seem very good quality. Same as SAE grade 8.
(20) M6-1.0 x 12 / M6x12 Metric Hex Flange Bolts Grade 10.9 DIN 6921 6mm x 12mm | eBay

Ordered those too, I really don't want to have this problem again. Thanks Duck!

 

[JCart]

I’ve broken 1 or 2 tightening with 3/8” Milwaukee impact, much more careful now and always use anti-seize paste. Always thought the frame was just drilled and taped. Kinda felt I’d do steel nutcerts when the stockers screwed up. I’ve used nutcerts (Pressure fit rivet type) with great success albeit steel ones, the aluminum not so much. On my UHMW skid I used the stock washers and stock bolts and counter sunk, so they are just below skid surface so they don’t hang up on stuff. Was concerned with using high grade bolts as figured they’d tear the frame material compared to stock and just break off as they are soft bolts.
j

 

[snakeriver]

Well sh**! Broke one last year so ordered a bunch of new ones from the Honda dealer and replaced them. Just dropped the skid plates today and snapped 3 of them. Did a little research on here and it sounds like the way to go is with nutserts. I'm going back out now to try to extract them but have never had real good luck with the easy out method. Any insight would be appreciated...nutserts type, tool brand...this blows!

For removal of the broken bolts try a left handed drill bit to drill out before you use your easy out.

 

[RumpRocket]

Maybe one of these would help. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/?tag=sxsweb24-20