P1000m5 Specific Skid Plate Question

TxDoc

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I know ... The Dead Horse may still be moving. Sorry.

I have a specific question.

I understand you want a 1/2 inch thick model. And, one that wraps around the edge of the frame.

I forget the brand that meets these requirements.

But, I won't be the one changing the oil. I still don't want it to be difficult and tine consuming for the person they does.... So would a one-piece be more trouble with many fasteners?

Or, would one with several pieces be easier to take off the one piece to get to the drain plugs?

Finally, would a single piece be stronger than a multiple section skid plate for any reason

I'm not price shipping so much as I've learned about the rule of Buy Once, Cry Once. But, of s cheaper one is best, that's great.

Thank you for the time to respond.



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NTCPrezJB

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My personal opinion is the oil change is sort of a forced time to look the machine over good. One piece would prevent me from being lazy and not dropping all of the skid for a thorough cleaning and inspection. Outside of that, 1 piece vs an overlapping 3 piece is mostly personal preference. Sure it could separate and get caught at the joint but I don’t think it’s as big a deal as people think.

My two cents for what it’s worth (not much)
 
Ridinfool

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I put the trail armor 1/2” on my P1K and have beat the snot out of it and it’s still there. As far as service goes I’ve had my buggy serviced by the dealer 3 or 4 times so far and no problem. As I understand it, there are holes to access all the drains without removing the skid plate.
 
Hondasxs

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My opinion.
There is no way in hell I would ever be taking my skid plate off unless it was absolutely required. I would never get it back on properly.

I have the trail armor. I like it. I have put it through hell. Had it on my 2016 pioneer also.

A one peice would be better but it would also be huge and hard to install.

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Pilotadam

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I made my 3 piece and the whole center sections drops for the oil change. Getting the fasteners out is a pain. I started putting anti seze on the bolts to help. I tried one time to drain through the holes and it made a huge mess. Where my front and rear section meet they are well supported so they never get caught up when sliding over rocks so I highly recommend the 3 piece layout.

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ToddACimer

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I made my own skid for a few reasons. I didn't want multiple pieces down the center of the machine and I wanted all the factory holes. Despite adding a ton of vent holes beyond the factory vent and maintenance holes, I still get mud trapped up there. For once or twice a year it's no big deal to pull the skid plate and it's a good time to clean it off. I've also found that within a year, I wipe off a handful of washer and bolts. Every maintenance interval I need to extract and replace the broken or bent bolts.
 
P1K5Dave

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It's not a foregone conclusion that you need a 1/2". Are you rock banging? Then yeah. I rarely bottom out, and most of the time that I do, it's dirt, mud, some rocks.

3/8" Tusk works for me.

I agree with hsxs, I'm not dropping this skid unless I have to. It's got all the cutouts I need to do maintenance. As far as I know, most of these skids have you drilling and tapping your frame tubes for installation. These aren't exactly robust threads that I want to be constantly undoing and re-doing.
 
CID

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It's not a foregone conclusion that you need a 1/2". Are you rock banging? Then yeah. I rarely bottom out, and most of the time that I do, it's dirt, mud, some rocks.

3/8" Tusk works for me.

I agree with hsxs, I'm not dropping this skid unless I have to. It's got all the cutouts I need to do maintenance. As far as I know, most of these skids have you drilling and tapping your frame tubes for installation. These aren't exactly robust threads that I want to be constantly undoing and re-doing.
That's my thoughts - the frame tubes are so thin that the self tapping threads aren't going to last for many R&R's of the skid - so mine isn't coming off anytime soon. If/when mine strip, I'll be welding thread inserts to replace. The Trail Armor has holes for changing fluids on my Talon but they aren't quite large enough and some oil always ends up migrating across the skid, I imagine it's a mess but I can't see it from the driver's seat. :p
 
ToddACimer

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Yeah, I figure the best thing I have holding those bolts into those flimsy threads is corrosion and rust. I also see myself drilling them all out and welding in nuts someday, if necessary.
Nutserts are easy to install and easy to replace. I like m6, matches the factory bolt thread and easy to replace
 
P1K5Dave

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You're talking about those ones you put in with a rivet-style tool, right? I guess I kind of view those as a bit light duty for a skid, seems like with corrosion and such you'd find yourself spinning them a lot, no (?)
 
Pilotadam

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I welded in some weld nuts to a 1/4 thick tube support and then wells that to the outer tube to give a much more robust mounting point. Plus it strength the outer tube and helped a little with the two different horizontal planes of tube under the pioneer. I went way over kill and used 3/4 material because it was free from my buddies machine shop. At the time he had a ton sitting on the self for a job that was canceled. That allowed me to countersink all the bolt heads to protect them. Ee5fa40a2f6790c9041c1c86ef61b47426d58fa779566c463072b4d926b503c87547f920688db25618907a0476163d62

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ToddACimer

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You're talking about those ones you put in with a rivet-style tool, right? I guess I kind of view those as a bit light duty for a skid, seems like with corrosion and such you'd find yourself spinning them a lot, no (?)
I haven't had any issue with them when used with a light coat of antiseize. They are also easy to replace of damaged. I'd consider them more durable than the tapped holes from Honda
 
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