P1000 Stinger

[kyrider1000]

Question , Why cant I just use a

Stinger SGP38 80 Amp Relay and Battery Isolater​

instead of a true iso unit ? From what i see is it does the same thing per say .
Yall school me on it .

Ride em safe

 

[Admin]

 

[Scoop]

Not the same thing.

One is a relay used to energize/deenergize a second circuit when you turn the key on (or flip a switch, depending upon how you wire it), while the other is a battery isolator. You connect all your accessories to the AUX battery. That way if you run down the AUX battery, the main battery is protected and you won't be stranded somewhere.

The True unit connects and disconnects the two batteries (in parallel) to ensure you always have a strong main (starting) battery if the second (AUX) battery gets run down.

The Stinger relay simply energizes or deenergizes the secondary circuit (e.g., fuse box) that you hook all your accessories to.

 

[Scoop]

And if it gets below 32F where you live or ride, get the Cole Hersee relay, not the Stinger. It's marine rated and won't freeze up.

 

[kyrider1000]

And if it gets below 32F where you live or ride, get the Cole Hersee relay, not the Stinger. It's marine rated and won't freeze up.

Ok so if I connect all my acc like you said to the aux battery and leave the main battery to just run the buggy , I should be good ? OR .... Will the stinger allow the main battery to drain down to ? Sorry to ask all these questions but Im learning my buggy instead of paying a dealer / stealer to do it for me .

Ride em safe

 

[Remington]

Ok so if I connect all my acc like you said to the aux battery and leave the main battery to just run the buggy , I should be good ?

Yup! Best way to do it if u can imo

 

[Scoop]

Ok so if I connect all my acc like you said to the aux battery and leave the main battery to just run the buggy , I should be good ? OR .... Will the stinger allow the main battery to drain down to ? Sorry to ask all these questions but Im learning my buggy instead of paying a dealer / stealer to do it for me .

Ride em safe

Ideally, you connect nothing (no accessories) to the main battery except the True isolator. That way, NOTHING will draw down your main battery and it will always be good for starting AND for operating your dual clutch transmission (they are finicky when voltage gets low).

For your second battery, most people do the following:

1. Connect the other side of the True isolator to the AUX positive post (and ground the isolator - the small wire)
2. Connect the positive post of the AUX battery to one side of the Stinger (large post)
3. Connect the other side of the Stinger (large post) to the positive post of a fuse box (e.g., a 12 circuit panel is a good idea)
4. Connect the negative side of the fuse panel to ground.
5. Connect a power source (e.g., key-on 12v or a switch on the dash, or both) to the Stinger (small post)
6. Ground the Stinger (small post)
7. Connect all your accessories (except the MAIN winch power cable) to the fuse panel (positive and negative as needed). Your main winch cable should always go directly to the positive post on the AUX battery and the ground to the negative post of the AUX battery. Do not run these through fuse panels or busbars.
8. Some people add busbars (positive and/or negative). See video below.

This is a great video worth the watch, created by HSXS member @RobSparre, covering the dual battery install and the True AM isolator. Be sure to watch in case I got any of the above mixed up ... LOL.

 

[Scoop]

Sorry to ask all these questions but Im learning my buggy instead of paying a dealer / stealer to do it for me .

You never have to apologize for asking questions. Better to ask than be sorry.

I would suggest trying to use the SEARCH function here on the forums before posting questions, as many topics have been discussed ad nauseam in the past (including this one).

 

[kyrider1000]

You never have to apologize for asking questions. Better to ask than be sorry.

I would suggest trying to use the SEARCH function here on the forums before posting questions, as many topics have been discussed ad nauseam in the past (including this one).

Thank you sir for posting in a way a common man can understand . You guys on here are awesome folk . If ever want to ride and have a adult bev by a campfire in Kentucky then hit me up .

CHEERS
RIDE EM SAFE !

 

[Hondasxs]

Question , Why cant I just use a

Stinger SGP38 80 Amp Relay and Battery Isolater​

instead of a true iso unit ? From what i see is it does the same thing per say .
Yall school me on it .

Ride em safe

Havent read all the replies, just wanted to answer.

Yes, you can use this in place of the TrueAM Isolator, but you CANT use the TrueAM in place of a Stiner as a power source.
When using it as a battery isolator...
- The TrueAM is automatic.
- The Stinger is manual.

When using the stinger as a switch power unit.
- The Stinger can be used as a switched power source, Usually for the secondary accessory system.
- The TrueAM is not designed to be used in this manner.

 

[Scoop]

When using it as a battery isolator...
- The Stinger is manual.

Sure, but then I'd have to remember to turn it off. I'm too absent minded to rely on myself. 🤣

 

[Abuck]

And if it gets below 32F where you live or ride, get the Cole Hersee relay, not the Stinger. It's marine rated and won't freeze up.

Thanks! I haven’t heard that before, it saved me from a LOT of headaches.