P1000 Stumped: dont know what 2do

[1Ktrailrider]

16' p1k5. 12,300miles. Stock.
Won't down shift, code 57. (Have service manual)
I know I have a few other posts relating to this issue. Ive read every post relatong to this matter from hear to east-jabib. But I don't know what to do at this point.
I have done: checked all DCT wiring and plugs, replace shift motor wires, and a shift solenoid wire. Removed, cleaned and checked shift motor (bench tested both directions), replaced the 40° angle sensor under the seat. (Fault code 57) Checked batteries, grounds and cleared stored codes. All is good. Will slowly downshift once or twice but quickly flashes a code and stalls from not downshifting. Immediate issue. Happens as soon as I pull out of the driveway
I just don't know what else to check. Could it be the ECU? What about the 2nd shift angle sensor next to the shift motor? But thats a different code. Put a new shift motor in it anyway? Dealer is zero help. I quote; "you've done everything we would've done". Something is broken and I just can't see it. (8k takes it as it sits)

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

That's a good price. Might actually be somewhat low.
But if you are wanting to move it quick... it should.
I would mark it FIRM for sure.

 

[Hondasxs]

The early models. 16, 17, 18, were known for having wires vibrate, bend, and break inside the insulation. This would not be visible.
It has happened to the injectors, the map sensor, and the IACV, and the throttle position sensor connectors wires.
I'm sure it can happen to other wires as well.
Connectivity testing would be a pain, but it could be done.

 

[1Ktrailrider]

The early models. 16, 17, 18, were known for having wires vibrate, bend, and break inside the insulation. This would not be visible.
It has happened to the injectors, the map sensor, and the IACV, and the throttle position sensor connectors wires.
I'm sure it can happen to other wires as well.
Connectivity testing would be a pain, but it could be done.

It will be up for sale in a few months and I want what I paid for it 10,000 miles ago.. so 8kfirm. (Yes your reading that correctly, thats what i paid for it) I have had 2 other wires break from when they did the clutch update, not putting the harness back the right way and rubbing on the driveshaft. So your saying doing a continuity test from the angle sensor wires to the ecu? I can do that with a long jumper wire. At this point t every thing is a PITA, lol.

 

[Hondasxs]

So your saying doing a continuity test from the angle sensor wires to the ecu?

Can't say that's the problem... But it is something you haven't mentioned checking.

 

[Jacks]

Can you ,annually downshift?

 

[Jacks]

Manually

 

[1Ktrailrider]

Manually

Negative sire. Once it senses an issue it locks out manual override, AT/MT, and sport modes. (A few hundred feet or after the first downshift). Once you stop it stalls. Turn key off and back on and it will slowly click its way to first. After a few times of that it will lock itself in 1st gear. It will smoothly up shift through every gear like nothing is wrong.
Thats why I'm curious what exactly each angle sensor does. I think one determines p,r,n,h,l and the other is 1-6th. That could help determine if I changed the right angle sensor or not.

 

[JACKAL]

@HondaTech do you have any insight to this guys issue? Sounds like something I haven't heard of before.

 

[AZ123]

Fuel injector wire harness Operating intermittently will cause all kinds of hidden issues normally be stuck in first gear Or just stall out of the blue
, shifting issues sometimes it shows a code sometimes It don’t
Sometimes it acts like somethings overheating causing problems with the unit
This is just from my experience go on YouTube there’s a guy shows how to change the fuel injector harness connector There will be two of them
Or look for a thread on this website that says stuck in first gear

 

[1Ktrailrider]

Its fixed, as of today. I don't say that with much confidence. I didn't find anything that was 100% broken or faulty. This morning changed out the shift motor with a new/used one I got off ebay. The old one worked fine on the bench. I took apart the DCT wire harness again to check a solder joint from a previously broken shift solenoid wire. (Code 16). It looked fine as well. I cut it out and put a different splice in it. Only other thing I did was erase previously stored codes. Drove 32 miles today. All is well. Just apprehensive because I didn't find anything obviously failed.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Ya that sounded just like my friends machine. We were struggling figuring out what it was too. Cleaned it out and was good for a few hundred miles before it wouldn’t work anymore. Just got sluggish, need to be crisp. He changed it around 18k it’s now got over 30. All is still good.
Was texting him earlier to make sure on codes trying to help but see you got it. Suspect you’ll be good

 

[AZ123]

I feel ya I would by parts and it would drive fine for awhile like I fixed it but oh no it left me out there again limping back and it would stall then I let it cool down start going again then some other symptoms would arise like lose all control of any shifting no manual auto shifting
I hope you got it fixed

 

[1Ktrailrider]

Ya that sounded just like my friends machine. We were struggling figuring out what it was too. Cleaned it out and was good for a few hundred miles before it wouldn’t work anymore. Just got sluggish, need to be crisp. He changed it around 18k it’s now got over 30. All is still good.
Was texting him earlier to make sure on codes trying to help but see you got it. Suspect you’ll be good

View attachment 259216

Thats really cool of you checking with your people on the outside just to help your people on the inside. High-five to you brother..

 

[1Ktrailrider]

I feel ya I would by parts and it would drive fine for awhile like I fixed it but oh no it left me out there again limping back and it would stall then I let it cool down start going again then some other symptoms would arise like lose all control of any shifting no manual auto shifting
I hope you got it fixed

One reason why I think its fixed is because from the first time it stopped downshift it would happen within the first 100yards. It never made it more than a few shifts before it would go into limp mode. Once I hit the mail box and it was still shift I kept going. 30+miles later, lol. I just wish I had a definite cause. The shift motor was fine and the solenoid wire wasn't "really" broken. I changed the shift angle sensor and that did nothing.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Thats really cool of you checking with your people on the outside just to help your people on the inside. High-five to you brother..

No need to be smart ass about it. Don’t like seeing someone with a machine down so just trying to help like many others. I didn’t have the problem myself just remember working on it with my friend so was trying to get the information from the original person. He doesn’t come on the site.
And I thought worth while to mention it was the issue and he hasn’t had another with it since.

 

[HondaTech]

Sorry i didnt get back to this thread, works been stupid this week.

The problem with testing shift motors is they only receive 5 volts and a 12 volt battery applied to them can mask the problem.

The older Foreman and Ranchers were bad for it, hooking a battery to it would mke it seem fine, but replacing the shift motor would fix everything.

 

[slowdryrider]

Had mine do that yesterday. Will up shift but wouldn't downshift all the time. Then of course it would shut down. Once sitting and cooled off it would work for awhile then quit. Shows two codes. 24 & 57. Checked the grounds they are all tight. Checked the connectors and they looked fine. Pulled the shift motor and took it apart. There was lots of crud / dirt in between the plastic brush holder and the motor body. { looks like dirt etc: can get in around the plastic plug area. Also the armature seemed to be really dirty and scored. Took some fine sand paper and held it against the armature and spun the armature with it mounted in the drill. Put a tiny amount of grease on the shaft that goes into the housing and put a little bit of grease in the bearing at the brush end. Put everthing back together and tried it out. I tried for over a hr to make it fail but it so far seems to be working fine. Same as you I feel aprehensive because I really don't know for sure if this is fixed. Guess I'll have to wait and see what happens.

 

[1Ktrailrider]

No need to be smart ass about it. Don’t like seeing someone with a machine down

You clearly took my reply out of context. I was being sincere. And grateful. And we even high-5'ed over the internet. Sorry if my dialect was misleading.

 

[1Ktrailrider]

Had mine do that yesterday. Will up shift but wouldn't downshift all the time. Then of course it would shut down. Once sitting and cooled off it would work for awhile then quit. Shows two codes. 24 & 57. Checked the grounds they are all tight. Checked the connectors and they looked fine. Pulled the shift motor and took it apart. There was lots of crud / dirt in between the plastic brush holder and the motor body. { looks like dirt etc: can get in around the plastic plug area. Also the armature seemed to be really dirty and scored. Took some fine sand paper and held it against the armature and spun the armature with it mounted in the drill. Put a tiny amount of grease on the shaft that goes into the housing and put a little bit of grease in the bearing at the brush end. Put everthing back together and tried it out. I tried for over a hr to make it fail but it so far seems to be working fine. Same as you I feel aprehensive because I really don't know for sure if this is fixed. Guess I'll have to wait and see what happens.

24 is a shift motor fault code. Seems like you fixed it for now. I took my shift motor apart. Didn't have any crud in it but was definitely burnt looking compared to the other one.