P1000 Sub-Transmission Service

[P1K5Dave]

It was about 8 hrs for my first time in there.

I could probably do another one in 4 hrs or so now that I've been there before, and I'd be studied up from this guide. Prepare ahead of time and some of the wtf moments will go smoother.

 

[Admin]

 

[HondaTech]

It was about 8 hrs for my first time in there.

I could probably do another one in 4 hrs or so now that I've been there before, and I'd be studied up from this guide. Prepare ahead of time and some of the wtf moments will go smoother.

I think my record might be 3 hrs on a Pioneer, including ultrasonic cleaning the case halves.

 

[johnsatv1]

It was about 8 hrs for my first time in there.

I could probably do another one in 4 hrs or so now that I've been there before, and I'd be studied up from this guide. Prepare ahead of time and some of the wtf moments will go smoother.

Thanks for the info i was figuring around 6 hours. Thinking Im going to do the Tallon reverse gear but is there a better low gear? This one here high gear and reverse isn't bad at all but when in low gear it pops out really bad......

 

[TwistedGrip]

Good afternoon. I have read everything I can get my hands on to do this job, have all the gasket, and gear part numbers but would very much to confirm these numbers with someone who has had success doing the Talon Low and reverse swap. I would also like to replace all of the shift forks. The following are the numbers I have EXCEPT FOR THE SEAL PART NUMBERS. Any assitance will be greatly appreciated Thanks
Perry

23701-HL6-000 GEAR, REVERSE IDLER
23751-HL4-000 SHIFTER LOW REVERSE
23691-HL6-A00 GEAR, REVERSE DRIVE
23650-HL4-000 GEAR, FINAL DRIVE LOW
24215-HL4-000 FORK, SUB GEARSHIFT RR
24214-HL4-000 FORK, SUB GEARSHIFT FR
21206-HL4-003 GASKET
21205-HL4-003 GASKET

 

[GameOverMan]

Don't have the gear list in front of me but it looks good. You will also need 2 long bolts replace that hold the case together and I wouldn't worry about forks. THey whill be as new most likely. I would watch youtube vids to see how to get to it for sure and use manual for the assembly.

 

[HondaTech]

Don't have the gear list in front of me but it looks good. You will also need 2 long bolts replace that hold the case together and I wouldn't worry about forks. THey whill be as new most likely. I would watch youtube vids to see how to get to it for sure and use manual for the assembly.

What 2 bolts are you referring to?
Ive never replaced any bolts when servicing a sub trans in a Talon or Pioneer?

 

[Hondasxs]

And these 2 parts.

I wouldn't put any sub trans together without these new parts.

Shaft 24210-HL4-010
Star 24331-HL4-010

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[armysgt97]

Thank you!
This was a great write up. I will be using this to fix my reverse gear soon.
I hope nobody minds but I converted this write up in to a PDF document for easy reference.
I will attach it to this post.

 

[GameOverMan]

What 2 bolts are you referring to?
Ive never replaced any bolts when servicing a sub trans in a Talon or Pioneer?

the 2 allthread bolts suppose to stretch when installing and are called in the manual to be replaced

 

[HondaTech]

the 2 allthread bolts suppose to stretch when installing and are called in the manual to be replaced

The studs on the upper side?
I cant say I see any reason to replace them, there just studs. Not torque to yield or anything.

 

[blainef1977]

Wow this is great information thank you for posting it

 

[P1K5Dave]

There has been more part number changes with the 2022 model year Pioneers. @theicor Details those changes in the following thread, it appears all of the updates will work in earlier models:

Thread 'P1000 Sub-Trans Part Number Updates/Inquiry' P1000 - P1000 Sub-Trans Part Number Updates/Inquiry

 

[nathan70817]

Interesting. Our manuals are different. Here is the same section from my electronic version:

View attachment 267150

So should the punch mark on the control shaft line up with N or P on the transmission casing when reassembled? If the instructions show it on the P position , why should the shifter on the dash be put in N before we re-install shift cable to control shaft.

 

[P1K5Dave]

So should the punch mark on the control shaft line up with N or P on the transmission casing when reassembled? If the instructions show it on the P position , why should the shifter on the dash be put in N before we re-install shift cable to control shaft.

N is the correct position. If your manual says "P", you got a copy with the misprint.

 

[GolfCart]

Post #125 refers to a couple of long bolts that should be replaced. The service manual on page 12-7 references two stud bolts that should be replaced. Are these the bolts referenced on post #125, and what are the part #'s

 

[HondaTech]

Post #125 refers to a couple of long bolts that should be replaced. The service manual on page 12-7 references two stud bolts that should be replaced. Are these the bolts referenced on post #125, and what are the part #'s

We dont replace any bolts. Never had any issues with any ive done that way

 

[ODAMO]

We dont replace any bolts. Never had any issues with any ive done that way

Just like drain plug crush washers, Every time I didn't have a new one the old one seemed to work just fine.

 

[Zack4204]

Does anyone happen to have the list of part numbers for all the ball and needle bearings and all the oil seals that are in the sub transmission or can anyone point me in the right direction of where to find them?
I've tried everything up to and including going to the dealership and every one they pulled that was supposed to be one, has been wrong.

 

[DRZRon1]

yeh -

u have 2 routes - just got to Ron ayers or partzilla or similar and just pull up the detailed parts diagram and order it or

just get the number off the bearing if it is on it (usually is) and cross reference it and get it

tbh - I never get oem bearings - too expensive - I just cross reference and order up - its not like Honda makes the bearing, they just buy it from Fafnir, timken or whoever

 

[Zack4204]

I worked from below the vehicle to remove the sub-trans. Wiggling and moving forward, keep it level so you're not stressing the stud bolts that will be left behind.
Here's mine starting to separate:
View attachment 226556

The manual (page 12-7, PDF 377) tells you to collect up your dowel pins, gasket, and drive damper. My drive damper blew up when the sub-trans came out, I don't know why. I had five springs falling out, snap rings, etc. I was able to re-assemble it on the bench, so it turned out OK.

My drive damper also blew apart. Do you happen to have anything that shows how it goes back together? Specifically how the big washer an top plate go in it. I'm fairly certain I have it the correct way but want to make sure of it and I can't find any diagrams that show how it's assembled.