Thanks. Im afraid the company 1pk is coming up soon.
P1K5Dave
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About what id expect after looking at the photos you posted. All goes into reverse, except the trans, I can feel it connect, disconnect and reconnect again. Seems that only one or two places where it will mesh well enough to say connected and pull the machine. The boys use it to move cattle occasionally, a lot of "backing and forthing" happening, sometimes........ rapidly. Maybe a bent shift fork but it sounds like it would in your photos. Cant put that sound into words.🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
P1K5Dave
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Here's a video that represents how shot my reverse was. It's a Talon, but same thing, same sound.
Adam490
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ch33br0h
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@P1K5Dave
thank you for taking the time to create this post!
I now have (2) great walkthroughs for this service and just made the plunge to order the parts!
I'm curious to hear if you had to get any special/specific tools?
In Sub=Trans section of the manual they have a page of tools and I see that at least one the "Bearing Remover" where each one comes in at over $200...
Or did you manage to get by with just standard tools we all have laying around?
thank you for taking the time to create this post!
I now have (2) great walkthroughs for this service and just made the plunge to order the parts!
I'm curious to hear if you had to get any special/specific tools?
In Sub=Trans section of the manual they have a page of tools and I see that at least one the "Bearing Remover" where each one comes in at over $200...
Or did you manage to get by with just standard tools we all have laying around?
P1K5Dave
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No, I didn't need anything special. The most useful tool that comes to mind was a ratcheting box end wrench to get at those difficult sub trans mounting bolts.
A
Thanks for this guide! I am in the process of assembling the sub transmission and putting the two cases back together. In the service manual, page 12-20 says "Tighten the bolts securely". This is ambiguous. I would think there should be a torque spec for the case bolts which secure the cover side, gasket and case side together. However, I can only find torque specs for the mounting bolts which secure the sub transmission assembly to the crank case assembly.
Sub transmission Mounting Bolt (cover side = 20 ft lbs)
Sub transmission Mounting Bolt (case side = 21 ft lbs)
The case bolts and the mounting bolts will both compress the gasket(s) and assume tightness should be evenly applied.
Therefore is it correct to assume 20ft lbs for the sub trans case bolts?
Sub transmission Mounting Bolt (cover side = 20 ft lbs)
Sub transmission Mounting Bolt (case side = 21 ft lbs)
The case bolts and the mounting bolts will both compress the gasket(s) and assume tightness should be evenly applied.
Therefore is it correct to assume 20ft lbs for the sub trans case bolts?
P1K5Dave
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@aspire ,
I remember coming up on that question myself, I think we discussed it in some other thread because they didn't give me a spec. It seems I recall they had a "general" torque spec based on bolt size that you were to apply absent specific instructions.
I just went with "tightened" by a 1/4" drive ratchet that wouldn't let me twist anything off, but allowed me to get them pretty snug. I'm sure you'll be fine with the 20 ft lbs if it felt good on the hand-torque test.
I remember coming up on that question myself, I think we discussed it in some other thread because they didn't give me a spec. It seems I recall they had a "general" torque spec based on bolt size that you were to apply absent specific instructions.
I just went with "tightened" by a 1/4" drive ratchet that wouldn't let me twist anything off, but allowed me to get them pretty snug. I'm sure you'll be fine with the 20 ft lbs if it felt good on the hand-torque test.
P1K5Dave
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As with any cover and gasket, the most important part is working side to side, tightening bolts across from one another a bit at a time until it's all snug and even.
ehart814
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Nice job on the write up! Good motivation for me to slowwwly shift from forward to reverse and back and make sure it's engaged and fully stopped before moving! One thing I do not like about the 1000 is the shifter. It just doesn't give a good "feel" for when it's in gear correctly, and having to worry about it being out of adjustment.
Yeah. After reading all that I think I'll start a savings account for Pioneer shop repairs. Looks like PITA.
CID
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#metoo
(but Talon) I'm glad to have learned about the potential problem before I did any damage. New to SxSs but understanding how shift dogs work, I can take my time shifting to avoid long term, permanent, internal damage. This thread will reinforce that caution. It's still light years better than a CVT.
A
@P1K5Dave
Hoping you can shed some light here... 2020 Honda Pioneer 1000-3 EPS and when I disconnected the propeller shaft from the
sub transmission the manual (12-6 and 12-9) refer to a "joint spring". I presume it is meant to prevent any telescoping and keep tension on the shaft. I have looked and ran my finger inside the collar of the u-joint but no spring is present. Just splines and moly grease. What is more confusing is there is no picture of this spring anywhere and no part number I can find. In fact, the exploded diagrams only show a "SPRING, FR. PROPELLER SHAFT 40415-HL4-A00" on the front differential side of the shaft (18-7). Not getting much of anywhere on this. Did you have a spring present on yours? I called 5 Pioneer dealerships and got 5 different answers (yes spring, no spring etc.). Can't get a straight answer on what part I need to order if any...
Update: The latest dealer I spoke with stated the manual is covering a range of models (2016-2020) and the procedure steps may not apply to all models. He further stated the parts diagram is the definitive source and that it doesn't show any spring and thus makes sense it not be present. Would love to have this verified somehow.
Hoping you can shed some light here... 2020 Honda Pioneer 1000-3 EPS and when I disconnected the propeller shaft from the
sub transmission the manual (12-6 and 12-9) refer to a "joint spring". I presume it is meant to prevent any telescoping and keep tension on the shaft. I have looked and ran my finger inside the collar of the u-joint but no spring is present. Just splines and moly grease. What is more confusing is there is no picture of this spring anywhere and no part number I can find. In fact, the exploded diagrams only show a "SPRING, FR. PROPELLER SHAFT 40415-HL4-A00" on the front differential side of the shaft (18-7). Not getting much of anywhere on this. Did you have a spring present on yours? I called 5 Pioneer dealerships and got 5 different answers (yes spring, no spring etc.). Can't get a straight answer on what part I need to order if any...
Update: The latest dealer I spoke with stated the manual is covering a range of models (2016-2020) and the procedure steps may not apply to all models. He further stated the parts diagram is the definitive source and that it doesn't show any spring and thus makes sense it not be present. Would love to have this verified somehow.
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C
Does anyone have any pictures pf the talon reverse gears side by side with the pioneer reverse gears. Im havimg trouble getting mine back together and at this point the only piece i changed was the talon reverse, but i tossed my pioneer gear in the garbage before i compared it. I have a thread on my issue but maybe somebody is watching this one and missed my thread.
Hondoman
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Does the one you have show a part # by chance?
HL4 is pioneer
HL6 is talon
Aren't the number of teeth different?
C
there is no marking in the gear itself. I looked at my receipt and it say it is the 23691-HL6. But im worried that isnt what i got. See attached picture the gear doesnt go up to the flat part. Does anyone have a picture of theirs in the same angle.
P1K5Dave
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Sorry I'm just getting back to you on this...
That was, in fact, the one thing I was puzzled about myself, after the fact. I went ahead and put it all back together, only later to think "what about that spring and o-ring that was mentioned in the service manual?"
I never saw a spring, and I think I recall an o-ring on the shaft. I assumed (later) that the spring must've stayed inside when I took it apart, and made a note to check it if I have this apart again.
I also wondered if by chance the previous owner had been in there...
I guess I can rest a little easier now? There is no spring?
P1K5Dave
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On second thought, I need to re-read this and check the diagrams. It was the spring at the front diff that I'm referring to.
P1K5Dave
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Looking at your pic, something about this is familiar, but I don't have specific memory.
Pay close attention to those exploded diagrams of the shaft / gear assemblies from the parts diagrams.
It's possible you may have something out of order, or backward, or perhaps the wrong washer in the wrong place in your reassembly.
Look at each item in the parts diagram carefully. If you use Partzilla to look at each part individually, they often give dimensions for washers and such. Check them with a caliper.
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