P1000 Switch panel power on/off??

[SP82]

So I have a p1000 , dual batteries with the isolator so the second battery only charges while the car is running and only oem stuff is on oem battery. My question is , I have recently purchased some fancy backlit rocker switches that are now half lit all the time. I understand that it won’t kill my oem batter and it will still start but I still don’t like it. Can I just run a automotive style switch as a loop on my ground wire ? Or positive ? Or will it be too. Much load ? I have a busman 6 fuse pane for power to my switches thinking maybe cut the power from second battery to fuse panel ? I’m lame to electrics stuff.


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[Admin]

 

[bumperm]

The switches need a switched ground for the lights. You can get this one of two easy ways. If you installed a True isolator, it came with a relay to give you switched ground for the dual voltmeter. If you installed that, it's a simple matter to get the ground for your switch lighting from the ground terminal or wire on the voltmeter, they also gave you a second, unused switched ground wire (green with yellow or white strip) on the switched ground relay.

If you used something other than the True, you can install a relay that uses switched "key on" voltage to energize the relay and connect ground to the ground buss (all the ground terminals connected daisy chain) on your switches.

 

[SP82]

The switches need a switched ground for the lights. You can get this one of two easy ways. If you installed a True isolator, it came with a relay to give you switched ground for the dual voltmeter. If you installed that, it's a simple matter to get the ground for your switch lighting from the ground terminal or wire on the voltmeter, they also gave you a second, unused switched ground wire (green with yellow or white strip) on the switched ground relay.

If you used something other than the True, you can install a relay that uses switched "key on" voltage to energize the relay and connect ground to the ground buss (all the ground terminals connected daisy chain) on your switches.

Yeah you lost me at “The” lol. I’m a carpenter so forgive my lack of knowledge on electrical. I’m a good remove and replace car guy and I can build you a really nice hot rod air cooled Honda 4 valve motor. Electrical ? I suck. I was thinking about one of these
And set that on the positive wire from my second battery leading to my fuse panel , use it as a switch so to speak. When I park the car overnight , storage etc, open the hood and turn it off. Going riding ? Turn it back on. My winch is hooked directly to my battery on its own relays and breakers so overload shouldn’t be an issue for some lights and led whips. Bad idea ? Why? Or easy enough for an electrical dummy??


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[StewB]

Yeah you lost me at “The” lol. I’m a carpenter so forgive my lack of knowledge on electrical. I’m a good remove and replace car guy and I can build you a really nice hot rod air cooled Honda 4 valve motor. Electrical ? I suck. I was thinking about one of these View attachment 294682
And set that on the positive wire from my second battery leading to my fuse panel , use it as a switch so to speak. When I park the car overnight , storage etc, open the hood and turn it off. Going riding ? Turn it back on. My winch is hooked directly to my battery on its own relays and breakers so overload shouldn’t be an issue for some lights and led whips. Bad idea ? Why? Or easy enough for an electrical dummy??


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Please give the forum a chance before you have to open the hood and flip the breaker to ride.

I bought a P1000 earlier this year. With the ready help of people here, like Bumperm who commented above and others, I installed a key on power (KOP) relay that powers-up a 30A Circuit Breaker (similar to your 100 AMP shown) off a dual battery (True Isolator), to an automotive relay that then powers a 6 tap fuse box. Using a fuse box let me dump a mess of in-line fuses. From the fuse box, I put in the winch relay, LED lights, remotes, and volt meters. It's really not that hard, but you do want to take a minute and plan it out.

When you say the fancy backlit rocker switches are now half lit all the time, do you mean when your key is off/out, or when you have the key in and on (KOP)?

Do you want to cut power to the accessories on the second battery/fuse panel, or just to the lights on the switches?

Others may be able to figure it out, but I might need a little more to be able to try to help.

Best.

 

[SP82]

Please give the forum a chance before you have to open the hood and flip the breaker to ride.

I bought a P1000 earlier this year. With the ready help of people here, like Bumperm who commented above and others, I installed a key on power (KOP) relay that powers-up a 30A Circuit Breaker (similar to your 100 AMP shown) off a dual battery (True Isolator), that powers a 6 tap fuse box (which let me dump a mess of in-line fuses). From the simple fuse box, I put in the winch relay, LED lights, remotes, and volt meters. It's not hard, but you do want to take a minute and plan it out.

When you say the fancy backlit rocker switches are now half lit all the time, do you mean when your key is off/out, or when you have the key in and on (KOP)?

Do you want to cut power to the accessories on the second battery/fuse panel, or just to the lights on the switches?

Others may be able to figure it out, but I might need a little more to be able to help.

Best.

Yeah I will let this stew. The breaker just seems simple and I think I have it figured out.
I would rather have power to them even with the key off in case I need camp lights since there’s no worry of it killing my main battery due to the isolator.
My fancy new rockers are yes half lit when the accessories are off (I know how to disable that but I like it ) and when you turn the rocker to on it’s double lit. Obviously with 4 rockers being lit 24/7 that’s got to draw something from the battery. Just trying to figure the beat way to shut the rocker panel down when the sxs is parked for the season / in between rides.
Thanks.


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[bumperm]

Yeah you lost me at “The” lol. I’m a carpenter so forgive my lack of knowledge on electrical. I’m a good remove and replace car guy and I can build you a really nice hot rod air cooled Honda 4 valve motor. Electrical ? I suck. I was thinking about one of these View attachment 294682
And set that on the positive wire from my second battery leading to my fuse panel , use it as a switch so to speak. When I park the car overnight , storage etc, open the hood and turn it off. Going riding ? Turn it back on. My winch is hooked directly to my battery on its own relays and breakers so overload shouldn’t be an issue for some lights and led whips. Bad idea ? Why? Or easy enough for an electrical dummy??


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Okay, sorry for the confusion. I was responding to your first post where you said you've installed a battery "isolator". The 100 amp circuit breaker isn't that. It's a $33.00 circuit breaker that opens when current through it exceeds 100 amps and can also act as a switch. Your winch should not be wired through it, as under heavy load, and depending on winch size, it can draw more current than that. You've done a bunch of work, but on some things I suggest you start over. First, if your second battery is lead acid, get one of these (available at the sxs store and other places online:

True

This is a bit more complex to install, but not that hard if you follow directions and take it one step at a time. The True battery management system takes all the hassle out of using and maintaining the batteries. It also gives you that switched ground source, I mentioned, that provides a convenient way to wire your switch lighting properly. I.e., all switch lights are off with the key switch is off. When you turn the key switch on, the lower switch LEDs illuminate, and the dual voltmeter shows battery voltage for both main and aux battery. When you turn a rocker switch on, the upper LED illuminates to indicate that.

No need to open the hood every to connect your aux battery. In fact, on mine, I installed a "Powerlet" style socket (also referred to as a BMW style plug/socket, as they are used on BMW motorcycles) so I can easily connect my battery charger without opening the hood.

No matter what course you choose, there are a lot of knowledgeable people here to help!

Powerlet

 

[StewB]

The connector hanging out by the "A" is for my battery charger/trickler.

 

[05Willys]

I installed a stinger off of the 2nd battery that closes with key on power. Off of that stinger I ran a lead to power my accessory fuse block. When the key is off, there is no power to my fuse block or my switch panel. The arrow points to the stinger. Circled is the lead to my accessory fuse block.

 

[bumperm]

I installed a stinger off of the 2nd battery that closes with key on power. Off of that stinger I ran a lead to power my accessory fuse block. When the key is off, there is no power to my fuse block or my switch panel. The arrow points to the stinger. Circled is the lead to my accessory fuse block.

View attachment 294931

I did similar, though I didn't use a "Stinger" brand, as I had a Bosch 75 amp relay in stock (5 of them actually!), and that's more than enough for accessories other than the winch (which is not wired through fuse block).

It is nice to have some fused circuits that are always on. I have my courtesy light and the rear lights (for camping, work lights) available when key off, also cell phone holder/charger is likewise always available in case I need to charge phone when parked.

Winch is available key off, as wired by Honda, it was always on, only needed to plug in the wired remote. I left that as is, but added a wireless remote receiver that gets it's power through a panel switch. With that switch off, stray RF can't inadvertently trigger winch-in and trash things. All that still works key off, and the receiver was only $20.

winch wireless remote