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P1000m5 Traveller II

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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Here’s the teeth that I found that are damaged. Two are missing a portion and one of them has cracked.

So maybe when I had water entry and caught it and drained it, there wasn’t a problem. Chunks of metal getting ground up was the problem!

D3c0c285e1f8bc403f1318d6d1c58d6b

6f9e91ced87a3a9d8d81c46a5d4e7871
 
joeymt33

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As long as someone from Honda hasn’t seen you treating Traveler like a submarine I would take that in for warranty.

No extended warranty and it was purchased in 2015. After lunch I’ll finish putting the other differential back in and take it for test drive. Let’s hope the used eBay diff is a good one. I’m not opening it up to check. Just fill it and go.

Thanks for your input on this issue.
 
Smitty335

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Here’s where the magic happens. I’ve never had one of these apart so this is a first for me and this type of limited slip. You can see one of the splined pieces, this is where one of the axles slip in. I’m not sure what you call the 12 bits that sit on the “spider gear” but they are what actually applies torque from one side to the other. They should have clean bearing surfaces too.

View attachment 69131

A closer look at that one of those pieces...
View attachment 69132

So what do y’all think? Did water contamination cause this?
Nasty!
 
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Windrock1000

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remember that there might be more to this story than what we see here. Did mud and water cause this? Or did the contamination that Lee was talking about come from somewhere else? There could be a possibility that I am withholding some information just to see what some you guys think initially.

I’m going with to much hammering down with no lube in there!
 
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remember that there might be more to this story than what we see here. Did mud and water cause this? Or did the contamination that Lee was talking about come from somewhere else? There could be a possibility that I am withholding some information just to see what some you guys think initially.


Say it ain't so.

No way that you, of all people @joeymt33, would try and yank our chains!!!!!!!!
 
joeymt33

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What lube you been running. I’m thinking about moving up to 80W140.

I’ve been using 80-90 in the past with a shot Lucas. I put in just regular gear oil this time and I’ll change it here in a couple weeks to a synthetic 75 –140. I don’t know the history to this diff so I’ll change it soon just to be safe. And I’m still using the magnet on the drain plug so that helps find metal contamination.
 
Windrock1000

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I’ve been using 80-90 in the past with a shot Lucas. I put in just regular gear oil this time and I’ll change it here in a couple weeks to a synthetic 75 –140. I don’t know the history to this diff so I’ll change it soon just to be safe. And I’m still using the magnet on the drain plug so that helps find metal contamination.

I’m glad you found a good replacement unit. I’m changing over to Bel-Ray gear saver this week. Had great success in the 250Rs. I’m crazy about changing fluids. Gear lube gets changed every time the service wrench comes on.
 
joeymt33

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I’m glad you found a good replacement unit. I’m changing over to Bel-Ray gear saver this week. Had great success in the 250Rs. I’m crazy about changing fluids. Gear lube gets changed every time the service wrench comes on.

I’ve been using the cheap Oreilly brand gear oil because I’ve got water in the diffs several times for each one. At 25-30 dollars a bottle that would have costs 100’s
 
sharp

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remember that there might be more to this story than what we see here. Did mud and water cause this? Or did the contamination that Lee was talking about come from somewhere else? There could be a possibility that I am withholding some information just to see what some you guys think initially.
It could be a little OCD. Lol hondas are better after theyhave been broken, in strange sounds and all!
 

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