P1000 Volt meter gages, opinions...

RyanOrange3

RyanOrange3

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I'm wondering what the consensus is on having volt meters.

I'm going to add the battery under the seat option and am wondering if having two or one meter is really necessary or if it's just a show piece thing?
I'll be adding in the isolator, either keyline or blue brands. So any input anyone has on those two items I'd like as well. Do they both work the same... Etc...

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Dasmoeturhead

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I have one volt meter, and one battery, and it works for me.
 
Manwell

Manwell

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I'm wondering what the consensus is on having volt meters.

I'm going to add the battery under the seat option and am wondering if having two or one meter is really necessary or if it's just a show piece thing?
I'll be adding in the isolator, either keyline or blue brands. So any input anyone has on those two items I'd like as well. Do they both work the same... Etc...

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
I was kind of wondering the same thing and have pretty much come to the conclusion that one on the primary battery is going to get it for me. 100% of everything on the second battery will be accessories that I've added - primary battery is 100% for OEM electrical. I have the second battery cable arranged such that I can connect it to the primary battery if need be. Both are being charged from the same source and the isolator will protect the primary battery. All accessories will be powered through a 140 amp breaker / disconnect. I may be missing something with my thought process, hope that other chime in as well.
 
RyanOrange3

RyanOrange3

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Thank you, your response is what I'm looking for... Me too.

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AK_Centurion

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I run 2 meters. One is wired to key on power and monitors the OEM battery. The other is wired to a AUX power switch and monitors the AUX battery. All accessories are wired to the AUX battery and switch must be on to use those accessories. This allows me to monitor the AUX battery while I have the machine off and running accessories. 2nd meter is also my visual indicator that I left the AUX power switch on when I am done riding.

For those that are running the electronic isolators that automatically turn on and off, 2 meters will help determine when the isolater kicks in and starts charging the 2nd battery.

Key off

Key on

Key on, 12 Volt Power switch on

Only 12 Volt Power switch on
 
RyanOrange3

RyanOrange3

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@AK_Centurion wow, thank you for that. That is how I am going to run mine! thanks for taking the time to do the pictures as well.
 
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RyanOrange3

RyanOrange3

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This way you don't need the key on to use the accessories...I like it:D
 
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Manwell

Manwell

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I run 2 meters. One is wired to key on power and monitors the OEM battery. The other is wired to a AUX power switch and monitors the AUX battery. All accessories are wired to the AUX battery and switch must be on to use those accessories. This allows me to monitor the AUX battery while I have the machine off and running accessories. 2nd meter is also my visual indicator that I left the AUX power switch on when I am done riding.

For those that are running the electronic isolators that automatically turn on and off, 2 meters will help determine when the isolater kicks in and starts charging the 2nd battery.

Key off

Key on

Key on, 12 Volt Power switch on

Only 12 Volt Power switch on
Great logic! Glad that I wasn't committed to the point of having to change stuff! I think I'm going the same route that @AK_Centurion did, makes sense to me! Thanks for your comments...
 
RyanOrange3

RyanOrange3

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Question @AK_Centurion , in picture 4, with Only 12v power on, should the switch lights be on, so then can be seen at night...and in picture 2 with Key On Power, the accessory switch lights would be off, since they technically wont work until 12v Power switch is on?
Or were you wanting the lights on whenever the key was on only?
I'm just over thinking it is all....
 
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AK_Centurion

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All the switch illumination is triggered by the headlights. Bottom half of all switches (except Winch In/Out and USB port) light up with the headlights on, top half will light up when switch is in the on position. In pic 4, only the top half of that switch is lit since the headlights were off. In pic 2 the headlights were on, so the bottom half lit up. The USB has a different pin set up and with only light up when there is power to it. I chose a Winch In/Out switch that had independent LEDs, so top and bottom would light up. 1st switch I tried only lit up once you pushed the button.
 
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Darby

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I did something kinda similar to Manwell... but probably didn't go to as much trouble with some of it as he did.. I used 2 voltmeters... - but I purchased the mictuning ones that also double as USB ports.. I put one to main (starter battery), and 2nd to Odyssey auxiliary battery - but I hooked them direct (I'm betting a couple of LED's aren't running my battery down significantly!). So it's always apparent what both my batteries are doing. The UTV Isolator I use - shows me right when my 2nd battery starts charging off the alternator... or the Battery tender I have (I run a from the main battery to the bed - used to hook up the battery tender - or to run a sprayer or other things if I want). My aux. battery runs everything aftermarket except if I use the battery tender wire to run something in the bed... and I have it wired where the USB's (& voltmeters), the Dome lights, the Stereo, or the winch can be run without the key being on... My front and back LED light bars will come on only if main lights are on... and my GPS, and my horn... work with "key on"....
If interested.. You can see pictures I posted in Pioneer 1000 builds under "Darby's rig" or ride.. or why knows what I called it!?
 
RyanOrange3

RyanOrange3

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i'll check it out @Darby thanks! I like hearing everyones ideas as to how and why they did what they did. I'm basically designing mine by adding them all together, lol
 
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