J
JTW
Guest
You've clearly never been to an Argentinian brothel! The beer cost more than the women!
J
JTW
Guest
B
So if one was to run some rock lights, turn signals, maybe a light bar, back up lights, and a sound bar, do any of those items necessitate a fuse and relay center? Or will a simple fuse panel suffice?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
J
JTW
Guest
Depends on the amperage.. divide the wattage of the light (or whatever accessory) by the voltage (12) and if it's less that what your switch can handle.. which is usually about 20 amps. Then a relay isn't necessary I would fuse them all though.
My suggestion, anything over about 10 amps, use a relay. IT will be more reliable that way.
Tramguage1
Texan
Moderator
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
I would suggest that you calculate the total amprege on the circuit, and then double that . That would be the fuse size i would select. I would not use a 30 amp fuse on a 150 watt lite pod circuit.
I suggest using relays on circuits that draw over 10 amps (1/2 of the swithchs capacity). Buy using relays you seperate the high current draws and the OEM electrical system of the Pioneer. Also i can control each item separately and run them off my auxiliary battery.
I suggest using relays on circuits that draw over 10 amps (1/2 of the swithchs capacity). Buy using relays you seperate the high current draws and the OEM electrical system of the Pioneer. Also i can control each item separately and run them off my auxiliary battery.
pos tapes are nice I only use them in real tight spots cause they are so expensive but use these everywhere else also real nice and wont break the bank Hilitchi 140pcs 22-16 / 16-14 / 12-10 Gauge Quick Splice Wire Terminals and Fully Insulated Male Spade Wire Crimp Connectors Set
SOLOOP 10PCS Blue Quick Splice Wire Terminals&Male Spade Connectors Set like possible taps not so expensive!
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I like the negative block this comes with and they supply but connectors and shrink tube also mine didn't come with this stuff but it was also cheaper. Good link
Something to also consider (to piggyback off of what CP said) use a relay whenever tapping into the factory wiring (headlight, ignition, backup) but also make sure the relay is diode protected. Whenever the relay is switched off the collapsing field current can cause voltage spikes in the factory wiring and cause havoc on computers. Most higher end relays sold at Waytek for the Bussman PDM have a clamping diode in the relay. It's cheap insurance. I also agree anything over 10 amps needs a relay as well. I HIGHLY recommend a 2nd battery to power all aftermarket acessories, and only tapping into the factory wiring for the 3 main things (headlight, key on power, and backup) and then relay protecting them.
Wow! Lots of great info here so far! I just picked up my 1000-5 on saturday and have already started ordering my add-ons.
Are you guys using this Bussman in place of the OEM Switch Plate/Harness PCB? Or are you using this in addition to?
Here are my plans (and orders) thus far....not planning on much past this.
20" LED bar
Winch
Wiper
Horn
May eventually add rear facing lights and perhaps a bluetooth soundbar and CB radio. Nothing super extravagant planned. Should I return the switch plate setup and go this route with an alternative switch plate?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions! I look forward to many many years with my 1k5 and being a part of this community!
Are you guys using this Bussman in place of the OEM Switch Plate/Harness PCB? Or are you using this in addition to?
Here are my plans (and orders) thus far....not planning on much past this.
20" LED bar
Winch
Wiper
Horn
May eventually add rear facing lights and perhaps a bluetooth soundbar and CB radio. Nothing super extravagant planned. Should I return the switch plate setup and go this route with an alternative switch plate?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions! I look forward to many many years with my 1k5 and being a part of this community!
And yes, I did order the stupid expensive OEM switch plate/voltmeter/harness, but I have no problems returning it
ohanacreek
My EcoBoost has I4WD
Moderator
Lifetime Member
You get more storage space if you replace the safety decal, the Honda plate goes in the lower storage space under the space wasted for Honda to avoid lawyers that aren't theirs.
Ok, so then using this space with sort of switch plate and the Bussman previously mentioned, then there is no need for the Honda plate and wiring harness?
Also, are guys using a plate/switch setup or just removing the safety decal and cutting the holes for the switches in the dash?
Thanks!
CumminsPusher
Just a Honda doing Honda things.
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
No need for Honda switches going this way. Some are replacing the warning decal with the custom cover others are going directly into it
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ohanacreek
My EcoBoost has I4WD
Moderator
Lifetime Member
Couple of ways to skin the cat, you can use something like the bushman setup or use a PDM60 (programmable circuit breakers with secondary triggers, ignition and ground)
then use the switch panel. you can even add your winch control to the panel, customization is endless.
PDM is the black box on the fender toward the front of the machine next to the two relays(wiper and Light bar)
It is my "fuse" panel and I have the backup light triggered by a ground off of the rev switch, the GPS and Lights are on a time delay off, and the entire setup is turned on by the ignition. The relay is REQUIRED to make the wiper "Park" and the light bar is right at 20 amps which the PDM60 says limit circuits to 15 amp constant use.
Its much cleaner now, I had just finished the Heavy duty wiring and was starting on all the accessory connections.
PDM60 | Rowe Electronics
then use the switch panel. you can even add your winch control to the panel, customization is endless.
PDM is the black box on the fender toward the front of the machine next to the two relays(wiper and Light bar)
It is my "fuse" panel and I have the backup light triggered by a ground off of the rev switch, the GPS and Lights are on a time delay off, and the entire setup is turned on by the ignition. The relay is REQUIRED to make the wiper "Park" and the light bar is right at 20 amps which the PDM60 says limit circuits to 15 amp constant use.
Its much cleaner now, I had just finished the Heavy duty wiring and was starting on all the accessory connections.
PDM60 | Rowe Electronics
You can get your money back for the honda switch plate. Make your own or buy one or here and all the switches and the accessories for the money you'll get back. I made my own switch plate out of left over plexi glass and covered it with a carbon fiber wrap like others on this site have done. Sorry don't have any pictures to show.
Thanks for the clarification and info guys. Never gave a thought to putting it where the warning lable is....was a bit concerned with the limitation of 4 switches with the oem plate.
Hope the eBay seller (dealer in Ohio I think) Doesn't give me a hard time taking it back. Noticed the listing said no returns but eBay says I can start a return tomorrow.....so we shall see.
Hope the eBay seller (dealer in Ohio I think) Doesn't give me a hard time taking it back. Noticed the listing said no returns but eBay says I can start a return tomorrow.....so we shall see.
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