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What did you do to/with your Talon today?

CID

CID

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  1. Talon R
I went with 10 ply Aramid Terrabites. I wanted as much sidewall protection as I could buy as the only two tire failures I have experienced on my previous Honda Pioneer were both sidewall punctures
The other side of the story - once upon a time, after burning off a set of fairly expensive OHV tires in 5800 miles (6 tires, 2 fronts, 4 rears, cause that's how my Talon werkz); I decided my first priority was high mileage. I couldn't run Terrabites because they don't play well with beadlocks (inconsistent bead widths). So I opted for a set of BFG All Terrain Radials. Name recognition - they've been on the market for decades. I really liked them ... for awhile ... and would have gotten 11,000 miles out of 6, but I hit a rock, at speed and cut a sidewall, mid life - my fault, not the tire's.

But by that time I had learned that a tire designed for off road racing on a 6,000 pound truck might not work so well on a 2,000 pound SxS - the damn thing rode like a dump truck. :oops:

My next, and present tire, is a BFG KM3 Mud Terrain, OHV specific tire. Within 100 feet, I knew it rode better. 😍 I have no idea how long they'll last but at least I'm not getting the crap beat out of me (nor is the Talon).

Tires are temporary, buy something round and black that you like the looks of. If they work for you, buy another set, if not; buy a different set.
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CID

CID

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I (again) pulled the wheels off, took off the bead lock rings, and put some bead sealant on. It's annoying how much air just seems to disappear from these. I have Terrabites on Tusk Uinta rims. Does anyone make tire specifically for beadlocks since regular tires aren't made to seat on the inside of the tire?
See my post below yours - Terrabites are great, long wearing tires but they don't play well with beadlocks due to inconsistent bead thickness. It isn't the wheel, it's the tire. Try anything else. This is the only reason I'm not running them. Stock rims, or non beadlocks, Terrabites are great.
 
AMink

AMink

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See my post below yours - Terrabites are great, long wearing tires but they don't play well with beadlocks due to inconsistent bead thickness. It isn't the wheel, it's the tire. Try anything else. This is the only reason I'm not running them. Stock rims, or non beadlocks, Terrabites are great.
Do you know if the Megabites are any better?
 
CID

CID

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Do you know if the Megabites are any better?
I haven't heard anything to that effect ... yet ... but I'd be skeered. :oops: Hopefully, someone will speak up.
 
lowranger

lowranger

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I think the only difference to the Megabits are that they are more aggressive for mud. Might be a little tougher on pavement. My 2 cents.
 
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Prntckt

Prntckt

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See my post below yours - Terrabites are great, long wearing tires but they don't play well with beadlocks due to inconsistent bead thickness. It isn't the wheel, it's the tire. Try anything else. This is the only reason I'm not running them. Stock rims, or non beadlocks, Terrabites are great.
I have the same setup - Terrabites and Tusk Uinta beadlocks. One of the five tires on my Talon has had a slow leak, so I can also vouch to the fact that the tire bead variation is an issue.
 
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100Acre

100Acre

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Scratched an itch….
 
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I went with 10 ply Aramid Terrabites. I wanted as much sidewall protection as I could buy as the only two tire failures I have experienced on my previous Honda Pioneer were both sidewall punctures
I have the 10-ply Aramids on Tusk Uinta beadlock wheels. Could not get them to stop leaking (tried just about everything I could think of) until I used some Berryman Tire Seal-R on them. Been great ever since.
 
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Prntckt

Prntckt

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  1. Talon x4
I have the 10-ply Aramids on Tusk Uinta beadlock wheels. Could not get them to stop leaking (tried just about everything I could think of) until I used some Berryman Tire Seal-R on them. Been great ever since.
I'll have to give that a try
 
CID

CID

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  1. Talon R
Since I'm able to travel the desert SW, I decided I needed to have a spare pair of axle assemblies (L&R are the same, front and rear are different). You can't buy a complete axle assembly from Honda, you have to buy an axle which comes with the outer CV installed complete. You buy an inner CV (all 4 are the same), fill it with grease, push the axle in past the circlip and cinch the two bands (I have to have the dealer do that, I don't have the super expensive 'pliers' that can do it properly).

Today was the day to assemble a rear, this is my third time. Both previous CVs were so tight that I couldn't move them without putting an axle in and working the bearing up to the top (a piece of 3/4" black pipe will also work). Both new CVs are sloppy loose, just turning the CV over and the guts will fall to the other end - not happy. :mad: At least both new ones are doing the same thing, so it's not a defective CV ... maybe ...

What they look like new (below). On the first two, I could NOT move the bearing without leverage. When you're filling this with grease, pull the bearing up to the top and squeeze the grease in the resulting void. I do that so when I push the axle in, the bearing will sink into a cup full of grease, forcing grease through the bearing (where I couldn't reach with the pointy thing).

For the curious - the LR inner started clicking at about 4500 miles and I ignored it until 8100 miles because it would quit clicking when it warmed up. But the boot started leaking, so it got a new CV at that time (you can't ignore a leaking boot, Dudes). I bound up the RR under power, at Moab, a big ole KERLUNK and subsequent pronounced clicking. I was able to finish my trip though. Since that boot had just started leaking, both got replaced at about 12,500.

Full CV replacement details in post #66 of this thread -

A rear axle is 30-5/8" long to the outside ends of both CVs - useful info to know if you've engaged that hidden circlip. I'm still using those long bar clamps to pull the thing together, it works pretty well (see post 66).

I also use the pointy thing to work the grease in around the 6 balls and tip the bearing to 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00. To repeat - I don't grease it in this position, I pull the bearing up to the top and square it up.
I wVPrjdM X2
 
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