What did you do to/with your Talon today?

[CID]

I went with 10 ply Aramid Terrabites. I wanted as much sidewall protection as I could buy as the only two tire failures I have experienced on my previous Honda Pioneer were both sidewall punctures

The other side of the story - once upon a time, after burning off a set of fairly expensive OHV tires in 5800 miles (6 tires, 2 fronts, 4 rears, cause that's how my Talon werkz); I decided my first priority was high mileage. I couldn't run Terrabites because they don't play well with beadlocks (inconsistent bead widths). So I opted for a set of BFG All Terrain Radials. Name recognition - they've been on the market for decades. I really liked them ... for awhile ... and would have gotten 11,000 miles out of 6, but I hit a rock, at speed and cut a sidewall, mid life - my fault, not the tire's.

But by that time I had learned that a tire designed for off road racing on a 6,000 pound truck might not work so well on a 2,000 pound SxS - the damn thing rode like a dump truck.

My next, and present tire, is a BFG KM3 Mud Terrain, OHV specific tire. Within 100 feet, I knew it rode better. 😍 I have no idea how long they'll last but at least I'm not getting the crap beat out of me (nor is the Talon).

Tires are temporary, buy something round and black that you like the looks of. If they work for you, buy another set, if not; buy a different set.

 

[CID]

I (again) pulled the wheels off, took off the bead lock rings, and put some bead sealant on. It's annoying how much air just seems to disappear from these. I have Terrabites on Tusk Uinta rims. Does anyone make tire specifically for beadlocks since regular tires aren't made to seat on the inside of the tire?

See my post below yours - Terrabites are great, long wearing tires but they don't play well with beadlocks due to inconsistent bead thickness. It isn't the wheel, it's the tire. Try anything else. This is the only reason I'm not running them. Stock rims, or non beadlocks, Terrabites are great.

 

[AMink]

See my post below yours - Terrabites are great, long wearing tires but they don't play well with beadlocks due to inconsistent bead thickness. It isn't the wheel, it's the tire. Try anything else. This is the only reason I'm not running them. Stock rims, or non beadlocks, Terrabites are great.

Do you know if the Megabites are any better?

 

[CID]

Do you know if the Megabites are any better?

I haven't heard anything to that effect ... yet ... but I'd be skeered. Hopefully, someone will speak up.

 

[lowranger]

I think the only difference to the Megabits are that they are more aggressive for mud. Might be a little tougher on pavement. My 2 cents.

 

[lowranger]

Rougher on pavement

 

[Prntckt]

See my post below yours - Terrabites are great, long wearing tires but they don't play well with beadlocks due to inconsistent bead thickness. It isn't the wheel, it's the tire. Try anything else. This is the only reason I'm not running them. Stock rims, or non beadlocks, Terrabites are great.

I have the same setup - Terrabites and Tusk Uinta beadlocks. One of the five tires on my Talon has had a slow leak, so I can also vouch to the fact that the tire bead variation is an issue.

 

[100Acre]

Scratched an itch….

 

[Scoop]

I went with 10 ply Aramid Terrabites. I wanted as much sidewall protection as I could buy as the only two tire failures I have experienced on my previous Honda Pioneer were both sidewall punctures

I have the 10-ply Aramids on Tusk Uinta beadlock wheels. Could not get them to stop leaking (tried just about everything I could think of) until I used some Berryman Tire Seal-R on them. Been great ever since.

 

[Prntckt]

I have the 10-ply Aramids on Tusk Uinta beadlock wheels. Could not get them to stop leaking (tried just about everything I could think of) until I used some Berryman Tire Seal-R on them. Been great ever since.

I'll have to give that a try

 

[lowranger]

Got my 30x10x15 Terrabites on today, along with the 1.5" rear spacers.

 

[01Canes]

Printed up a tablet mount. It's a good friction fit so I just added some 3m tape to the flanges for now. Utilizing a ram mount. Easy to get to switches and whatnot.

 

[lowranger]

Did some volunteer work for the U.S. Forest Service yesterday, clearing trees out of the roads.

 

[lowranger]

It was a nice day out for a ride.

 

[AMink]

Not today but over the 3 day weekend. Not a bad way to celebrate my 60th!

 

[Nevada Notch]

Where in the Sierra Nevada is that location?

Rand

 

[AMink]

Where in the Sierra Nevada is that location?

Rand

Stillwater Range. We rode from south east of Lovelock near Dago Pass Road to Bolivia.

 

[CID]

Since I'm able to travel the desert SW, I decided I needed to have a spare pair of axle assemblies (L&R are the same, front and rear are different). You can't buy a complete axle assembly from Honda, you have to buy an axle which comes with the outer CV installed complete. You buy an inner CV (all 4 are the same they are NOT THE SAME, the front inners are, indeed smaller), fill it with grease, push the axle in past the circlip and cinch the two bands (I have to have the dealer do that, I don't have the super expensive 'pliers' that can do it properly).

Today was the day to assemble a rear, this is my third time. Both previous CVs were so tight that I couldn't move them without putting an axle in and working the bearing up to the top (a piece of 3/4" black pipe will also work). Both new CVs are sloppy loose, just turning the CV over and the guts will fall to the other end - not happy. At least both new ones are doing the same thing, so it's not a defective CV ... maybe ...

What they look like new (below). On the first two, I could NOT move the bearing without leverage. When you're filling this with grease, pull the bearing up to the top and squeeze the grease in the resulting void. I do that so when I push the axle in, the bearing will sink into a cup full of grease, forcing grease through the bearing (where I couldn't reach with the pointy thing).

For the curious - the LR inner started clicking at about 4500 miles and I ignored it until 8100 miles because it would quit clicking when it warmed up. But the boot started leaking, so it got a new CV at that time (you can't ignore a leaking boot, Dudes). I bound up the RR under power, at Moab, a big ole KERLUNK and subsequent pronounced clicking. I was able to finish my trip though. Since that boot had just started leaking, both got replaced at about 12,500.

Full CV replacement details in post #66 of this thread -

What did you do to/with your Talon today?

hondasxs.com

A rear axle is 30-5/8" long to the outside ends of both CVs (when fully compressed) - useful info to know if you've engaged that hidden circlip. I'm still using those long bar clamps to pull the thing together, it works pretty well (see post 66).

I also use the pointy thing to work the grease in around the 6 balls and tip the bearing to 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00. To repeat - I don't grease it in this position, I pull the bearing up to the top and square it up.

 

[CID]

I have a correction and an apology to make to everyone. 🥲 I said in the post above that all 4 inner CV joints are the same on a Talon, they ARE NOT, the fronts are indeed smaller. ☺️ Not sure where I got that idea but I was pretty sure about it, wrongly. I've corrected the above post and don't remember saying they're the same anywhere else. If someone catches that mistake elsewhere, please let me know so I can fix it. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[WillyBill]

Dec 19, 2023 We finally got a Talon after 27 months waiting for mother Honda to send one to our dealer. I guess X2 FLV's aren't as popular? Anyway, he had to drive 3 hours away and trade another dealer out of it who had just landed the crate the day before.
Over the next 8 weeks my wife and I built it from A-Z. We already had accumulated all the parts and accessories that we wanted for our forever machine. At 72 I doubt I will want to build another, LOL. Sherry did the whole street legal kit from start to finish with minimal coaching, plus installed a bunch of other things, and the insulation/sound stuff. So proud of my sweetie! Below I made a list of what all we did in order we did it, more or less. Here's a group of pics - not enough I'm sure, but by now you've all seen a Talon torn apart and put back together.
We did something unique for the air intake system. Deleted everything and did our own. Starts with a S & B Particle separator, then a Donaldson 4" in/out double element excavator filter on a tube mount just below top in the bed, a bunch of turbo hose elbows and aluminum 3" pipe, a 10-8- Dirt Sports pipe and plate and the turbo inlet hose.

WB’s 2023 X2 FLV Talon Farcles list

Torque Locker
1 1/2” Forward arched A Arms-SATV
SATV front frame gusset plate
I 4WD DELETE-Honda SxS
SATV Boxed arched Rear Radius Rods
Double Shear brackets for rear Spindles
RaceCo Trailing Arm Pivot Frame braces
Dual OEM Batteries/True AM Isolator/Metal Battery Box
Jackson Racing Turbo Kit - (Makes Blue Faster Than Red)
S & B Particle Separator
Donaldson Dual element Air Filter-4” In & Out
Delete Jackson Air Filter setup
10-80 Dirt Sports Intake Pipe
SATV Speaker bar for separator & Filter mount behind cab
10-80 Switch plate (all full of switches)
Key on Ignition Master Switch n Relay-
controls all accessories and their Relays
Jeep Shifter boot on Gear Selector
Aftermarket Shift Gate-Hess
Inferno Cab Heater
10-80 DirtSports - both seat risers and back 40 mm on drivers seat
Eco Gear Sound n Light Bar
Rugged forced air pumper for helmets
Bosman Front Bumper with expanded metal brush guard(Homemade)
5500 LB Badlands Winch-wide spool n synthetic rope
Dash control for winch and remote cable also
Highway Legal for Utah:
Three Mirrors, Turn n Hazard signals, Windshield Wiper n Washer,
Park Brake, DOT LT Tires( TSL Swampers 11.5 x 32-15 on all 4
corners), RB3 1” spacers on rear to almost square it up,
DOT Glass front & Rear Windshields, Honda Mud Guard Flares to cover those big tires,
Tag Bracket with Light, Horn
Method Bead Grip 15” 6+1 wheels (5 tires n wheels)
Firewall Dust Cover n Wheel well covers too (Kinnemoto)
Insulation - under seats, back wall, under tunnel cover
Dirt Road Fab bed extender w/ spare
Lights: Front above winch, Ditch (Angle on Ft Bumper), Side, Back-up
Honda Moly oil (10-40) in Sub Trans after 40 easy street miles
7 various Honda Gear Bags
SATV 1/2” HMWP Skid Plate
SATV A ARM HWMP skids
Honda Trailing Arm Guards
Honda Side wrap HWMP
Skid Plates
SATV Rock Sliders
Ram Mount for Phone
Honda Soft Upper Doors
Tool Roll Backpack in bed w/ spare parts
Welded all U-Jopint Caps
50 Caliber 2” x 5 point Harnesses
UHF Radio
Hand Grips hanging from front of Cage
First Aid Kit
Quick Release Fire Extinguisher N Bracket(50 Cal Racing) X 2