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AMink
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Not off the top of my head. I'll ask when I see him in a bit.Any idea on the mileage of the unit?
Not off the top of my head. I'll ask when I see him in a bit.Any idea on the mileage of the unit?
I'm on front prop.shaft numer 2. Got the rhino with the cv joints. Hopefully it will be last one.I carry a sawzall with a long blade so I can cut the driveshaft in half and pull it forward off the sub trans. I can cut it from the coolant drain hole in the skid plate. The drive shaft can stay in the skid plate. If it's a short distance driving slowly in 4WD may reduce the banging.
The CV joint drive shaft should last 60,000 miles or more. If the U-joints have a bit of press fit, they should last at least 30,000 miles unless they are run in water and mud. Mud and water should be a problem for the CV joints.
Well I'm hoping water and mud won't be a problem for this shaft. With the boots they have around the cv joint and them packed in grease it should be good. I hope. Gotta.be better than the junk they come with. I even tacked the caps on the last one and it has a quarter inch of slop in it in 4000 miles.The CV joint drive shaft should last 60,000 miles or more. If the U-joints have a bit of press fit, they should last at least 30,000 miles unless they are run in water and mud. Mud and water should be a problem for the CV joints.
yep 2X2X1/4" - 1" wide pieces - just centered the holes up and drilled straight thru top to bottom and it amazingly all bolted up with no drama for once - honda did a solid and plenty of slop in the seat bracket holes - lolSquare tube?
yep 2X2X1/4" - 1" wide pieces - just centered the holes up and drilled straight thru top to bottom and it amazingly all bolted up with no drama for once - honda did a solid and plenty of slop in the seat bracket holes - lol
I met another Talon rider in Utah, while sitting in his, checking out his layout, he asked if I noticed anything about the seating position. Yep, sure do, I'm not being pushed forward like the seat does in mine, like way too much lumbar support.I have to drive it a little to see if the height is ok but sitting in it it seems fine- maybe a little more less bend on my long legs and not sure much more leg room - ill tear em back off then if they are ok and de-burr them and maybe give em a coat of powedercoat if I am energetic to coat em up and have other parts for the oven
Warning, doing this bound up my seat slider, pretty tight too, I haven't been able to move the seat since.
I did that. Couldn't find any glue that holds it back together. Now it's just one plug short.decided to screw up my hood - one of the male hold down plugs stayed in the female hole and decided to detach from the hood - yah
buttonheads?I noticed a broken beadlock ring bolt on my recent trip, replaced it today.
When checking the rest of them on that wheel, I found a really loose bolt, really, really loose, like broken off, but it wouldn't pull off with my fingers. A few spins with the ratchet and whatever burr was holding it, let go.
So two more broken BL bolts, upping my total to 4. I find it a bit curious that grade 8 bolts into aluminum are breaking off but they do stand a bit proud of the ring and judging by the condition of my BL rings, I shouldn't be surprised.I'm running STI HD9 wheels and they came with 8 spare bolts, I'm down to 4.
There are two tricks to this - 1. I use anti seize on every bolt when installing new tires. Not modern anti seize, this crap is at least 50 years old and looks/feels more like plain ole grease ... whatever, Dude.2. Left handed drill bits and a variable speed drill (low rpm). Center punch the bolt, hit it with the LH drill (~3/16"), maybe pumping a bit with your shoulder (pretend yer an impact wrench) and those babies will spin right out, wheel still on buggy and ring still on wheel.
The drill bit started wandering around the bored hole and I thought it had slipped out of the center punched mark. But that's not what was happening - when the broken piece started turning, the drill bit followed that off center punch mark around as the broken piece turned ... letting me know that things were going according to plan. 😍
A quick squirt with WD-40 will help it get past any exposed threads (both pics were taken after I started spinning the broken piece out).
View attachment 438752
The other one, same wheel -
View attachment 438753
View attachment 438754
If I didn't have such terrible luck with them everywhere else in life,buttonheads?
Went through this with machine #1, came to realize the km3's I had the bead bundle was so thick the beadlock ring was clamping down at such an angle it was side loading the bolt heads, pops them off. Pulled all bolts one at a time to inspect for cracking in the threads. replaced as needed, lots of anti-sieze torque to 15ftlbs no further problems. Ran out of the bolts that came with the wheels, ace hardware had a truck load of them, just not with captive washers.I noticed a broken beadlock ring bolt on my recent trip, replaced it today.
When checking the rest of them on that wheel, I found a really loose bolt, really, really loose, like broken off, but it wouldn't pull off with my fingers. A few spins with the ratchet and whatever burr was holding it, let go.
So two more broken BL bolts, upping my total to 4. I find it a bit curious that grade 8 bolts into aluminum are breaking off but they do stand a bit proud of the ring and judging by the condition of my BL rings, I shouldn't be surprised.I'm running STI HD9 wheels and they came with 8 spare bolts, I'm down to 4.
There are two tricks to this - 1. I use anti seize on every bolt when installing new tires. Not modern anti seize, this crap is at least 50 years old and looks/feels more like plain ole grease ... whatever, Dude.2. Left handed drill bits and a variable speed drill (low rpm). Center punch the bolt, hit it with the LH drill (~3/16"), maybe pumping a bit with your shoulder (pretend yer an impact wrench) and those babies will spin right out, wheel still on buggy and ring still on wheel.
The drill bit started wandering around the bored hole and I thought it had slipped out of the center punched mark. But that's not what was happening - when the broken piece started turning, the drill bit followed that off center punch mark around as the broken piece turned ... letting me know that things were going according to plan. 😍
A quick squirt with WD-40 will help it get past any exposed threads (both pics were taken after I started spinning the broken piece out).
View attachment 438752
The other one, same wheel -
View attachment 438753
View attachment 438754
And I'm running KM3's now.Went through this with machine #1, came to realize the km3's I had the bead bundle was so thick the beadlock ring was clamping down at such an angle it was side loading the bolt heads, pops them off. Pulled all bolts one at a time to inspect for cracking in the threads. replaced as needed, lots of anti-sieze torque to 15ftlbs no further problems. Ran out of the bolts that came with the wheels, ace hardware had a truck load of them, just not with captive washers.