D
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Is there a rule of thumb to determine how many watts an accessory can draw before we should use a relay?
20 amp switch, 12 ga wire, 120 watt lights. These components check out. Do your add a relay if you think you're going to burn up your switch or wire?What's the switch rated for?
What's the wire you want to fed the switch rated for?
What are you trying to power and for how long?
My light bar came equipped with a relay in the harness.20 amp switch, 12 ga wire, 120 watt lights. These components check out. Do your add a relay if you think you're going to burn up your switch or wire?
Apparently Aux-Beam doesn't agree as they include a relay in their wiring harness.For what you have a fuse would be fine
Thanks everyone. The 180 watt rule of thumb is what I was wondering about.Apparently Aux-Beam doesn't agree as they include a relay in their wiring harness.
Thanks everyone. The 180 watt rule of thumb is what I was wondering about.
Thanks everyone. The 180 watt rule of thumb is what I was wondering about.
I haven't hinted any way about how I'm planning on wiring these lights. I was just wondering if anyone had some ideas to go by... like "anything over 50W and I use or relay" or "anything under 150W blah blah blah" I'm not worried about burning up my SxS... I'm worried about melting my Squatch Lights switch! I ordered a relay with my light bar so I have one anyway. All of the info you guys gave is appreciated and helpful. I see that I just need to follow the normal rules for electrical design and I should be good. Thanks to everyone for the help.Not a rule of thumb, I just wouldn't personally risk a $10-20k machine over a $5 relay and $5 worth of wire.
A true 180w draw at 12v (not 13.8 which is what most systems actually are close to when the alternator is charging) is 15amps.
You don't pass the 20amp mark till 240w, BUT like I said I have had a 180w bar draw 22amps. (It kept blowing a 20amp fuse and I was using 10ga wire and a 20amp rated switch so I threw a meter on it)
Better safe than sorry.
A lot of these kits use a cheap $2 switch, a lot of small gauge wire and a cheap relay because it's more profit to them instead of including a 20amp switch and 12ga wire or 10ga wire. They only include a few feet of the heavy gauge wire for the bar or light kit.
It's also easier to get through small gaps in dashes.
This is one of the few things I learned in school that is use ALL the time.The way you find your true amps is watts divided by volts. Example 120w divided by 12v = 10a.
If i sold light bars I would add a relay to protect myself as acompany.But I know alot of people who never use them on there light bars.And they do fine.Apparently Aux-Beam doesn't agree as they include a relay in their wiring harness.
And, what's wrong with protection?? That's what relays, fuses and circuit breakers are all about.If i sold light bars I would add a relay to protect myself as acompany.But I know alot of people who never use them on there light bars.And they do fine.
My Auxbeam came with a 30 amp in line fuse on 10 gauge wire from a grounded relay. I'm installing it like they sent it with the redundancy of protection. As another poster has already pointed out, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.Is it a need?no,20 amp fse would work.
I think ohanacreek said it well in post 12, words of wisdom.You are absolutly correct 100 percent......But the thread is wether he needs a relay....He stated 12 gauge wire,120 watt light with rocker with fuse beside positive on battery...For that install the relay is not needed....and will work fine.....yes a relay is fine too I agree it will give piece of mind to those who want it.....