Cuoutdoors
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Lmao I had a feeling you would be.You know Im interested you just send me the parts list and how to mount the caliper and Ill do it!
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Lmao I had a feeling you would be.You know Im interested you just send me the parts list and how to mount the caliper and Ill do it!
You do really awesome work how long you been a machinist .I've been doing it 23 years. I don't do quite the job you do but i try. Nor do have such a sweet shop.E brake finally underway. Had the disk and caliper mount done months ago. Just mounted the master. Going to go through the seat firewall for the handle.
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I just tinker. No professional here.You do really awesome work how long you been a machinist .I've been doing it 23 years. I don't do quite the job you do but i try. Nor do have such a sweet shop.
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Well your very good at it .I am a jack all trades master of none .But jacking lolI just tinker. No professional here.
I had thought about an electronic line lock but I like the idea if you blow a brake line you would still have ebrakeE brake works. Could use a smaller bore master cylinder for an easier pull. Think I have some old 4 wheeler rear brake masters I might try later. Still need to test this one some more and brake in the pads.
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The duty cycle is real low on the electric locks. The cheap manual locks like to leak and blow seals also. The stock master cylinder only has 1 shared reservoir so if anything leaks you will loose all brakes. Swapping to a dual reservoir master cylinder is what I would like to do also to separate front and rear brakes. Wilwood has a 1" bore master with remote reservoirs. Will have to fab an adapter bracket and rod. I'll get to that before takeover.I had thought about an electronic line lock but I like the idea if you blow a brake line you would still have ebrake
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I hadn't even looked at master cylinder yet . Something to think about. Thanks for infoThe duty cycle is real low on the electric locks. The cheap manual locks like to leak and blow seals also. The stock master cylinder only has 1 shared reservoir so if anything leaks you will loose all brakes. Swapping to a dual reservoir master cylinder is what I would like to do also to separate front and rear brakes. Wilwood has a 1" bore master with remote reservoirs. Will have to fab an adapter bracket and rod. I'll get to that before takeover.
I wonder with wilwood master cylinder if it would stop a little better?I hadn't even looked at master cylinder yet . Something to think about. Thanks for info
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I think somewhere like post 410 in this thread there was one way up there. I don't know why a cable wouldn't work might my be hard to pull unless you make footwould a cable actuated caliper work? Similar to a Cadilac rear.
Any pics of the caliper/ disk mounted to pinion?
Or this?View attachment 65708
The 1" bore would give a little more leverage than the stock 1 1/16" bore.I wonder with wilwood master cylinder if it would stop a little better?
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I bought the wilwood one just like that but it was not floating unless I made some crazy bracket for it. I wanted that with the old toyota truck pull and turn e brake.would a cable actuated caliper work? Similar to a Cadilac rear.
Any pics of the caliper/ disk mounted to pinion?
Or this?View attachment 65708
I wonder how much work it would be to add a four-wheeler caliper to each Factory disc and then put the master cylinder on them or do cables with foot leverOk I did the Toyota pull Ebrake on my Rocky build. It worked flawless, but there' not as much room to work with here.
s***...And you’re not even going to mention the tires in the picture!