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my99svt

my99svt

I identify as a lesbian
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Dec 25, 2016
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Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
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  1. Talon X

  2. Talon R
View attachment 39897 Superatv Front Forward A-Arms done! All the specs.

That will be handy. Although I just put mine back together and I'll do it later. I just don't have all the proper tools at the house. And they sure didn't make it easy!


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Eltobgi

Eltobgi

Well-Known Member
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Mar 21, 2016
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North Dakota
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  1. 500

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View attachment 39897 Superatv Front Forward A-Arms done! All the specs.
Once again thanks for blazing the trail! She looks damn sexy! Can't wait, but....alas no sign of the man in brown:(

Quick question*

With a 1/16" difference were both grease zerks facing the same direction?o_O
 
Windrock1000

Windrock1000

Move out of the way! I'm lost?
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Jun 26, 2016
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Windrock, Tennessee
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Once again thanks for blazing the trail! She looks damn sexy! Can't wait, but....alas no sign of the man in brown:(

Quick question*

With a 1/16" difference were both grease zerks facing the same direction?o_O
Yes there where. Each machine will be slightly different. I set mine at -1 degree camber
 
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Windrock1000

Windrock1000

Move out of the way! I'm lost?
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Windrock, Tennessee
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There probably left hand threads, just kidding. BUT?

I used a 17mm boxed end wrench on the uppers and a 19 mm boxed end wrench on the lowers.

Loosen the nuts first then hit the solid part or the a-arm near the ball joint with a BFH.
After the ball joints have "popped loose" then unthread the loosened nuts. It doesn't take much of a blow to get them loose. You have to remove the brakes caliper from the hub and just let them hang. I didn't concern myself in getting a good torque # on the ball joints. The uppers torque at around 42#s and the lowers around 47#s. I used the "that about enough" method. However the axle nut does torque to 101#s. I took the liberty to remove the brake plastic shields. I think the hold dirt in the rotors.

I worked both lowers before touching the uppers. Leave the shocks attached until you start on the uppers. I used a small strap to support the new lower a-arms arms and shocks while working the uppers. When you are going back together make sure you tighten the ball joints completely and put in new cotter pins in as soon as you can. Work form the inside out if that makes since. Work your brake lines completely before attaching steering tie rods. Do your steering stops when you remove the old upper a-arm. Allow about 2 hours per side. Another 1 hour for fine tuning. Make sure a drive it around a little ever time you lift the tires off the ground to let it settle before adjusting.

PS. Use red locktite on the brake line bolts and blue locktite on the brake caliber hub bolts
 
Last edited:
Windrock1000

Windrock1000

Move out of the way! I'm lost?
Lifetime Member
Jun 26, 2016
2,539
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Windrock, Tennessee
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  1. 1000-5
There was a guy on here that modified the trail armour guards. Took a heat gun and a sawzall. I've looked for it and can't find it. But it is here floating around somewhere.

I may not put the a-arm guards back on. The a-arms have a lifetime warranty for any reason. I did notice that I bent the drivers side upper factory a-arm slightly. It was out 1/4" where the shock attaches. Nothing that the press can't fix. So the only protection missing is the CV Boots. I'm still looking at them sideways and do like the guards. Still got a few more priorities before I come back to the guards. Got get the bilge fans in and the whips next week before the Windrock Jamboree and the Takeover.
 
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