P1000 Wiring Diagram for 6 Switches with dual batteries

[BlueBadger05]

Ok all, I appreciate everything I have read so far, however I am throwing in the towel, I need help!! I own a 2017 Pioneer 1000-5 LE with a few basic mods, so far a boss V-plow, front hitch receiver for ice fishing auger, front light bar across the windshield, hard top, soft sided doors, and bedliner. I am looking to tackle adding the second battery next.

I have spent countless hours reading all of the amazing builds. I know I am not the first to do this, however I am just having a very difficult time wrapping my head around how to do it. I can't imagine my wiring is anything crazy, but I just want to get it right.

My setup:
Primary starting battery
True UTV-SBI-CM UTV Dual Battery Connect and Monitor Kit
Second Aux Battery
Switch Panel from Mystic with 6 switch spots and 2 circle spots.
Switches

2 circle spots will consist of dual voltmeter and usb charger

Switch 1 - Power to switch panel
Switch 2 - Power to dual Voltmeter
Switch 3 - Power to USB charger
Switch 4 - Power to Front LED light bar
Switch 5 - Power to Interior Dome Light
Switch 6 - Power to Rear LED lights

My questions are:
Am I missing anything that is needed?
Is someone able to draw me a wiring diagram to use to hook everything up? My goal is to have the main power switch "turn on" the switch panel, basically a main shutoff.

In return I can help with any of the mods I have already completed and will also document this project with pictures to hopefully help someone down the road with the same wiring experience as me.

Thanks,
Josh

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

I'm no wire expert. I want be of much help.
But have a few questions you need to ask yourself.

Where is your fuse system? You are pulling power from the second battery, right? Will each switch be fused? How, Where?
Switch 1 - This switch will control what? A relay? Sending power from the second battery to Switch 2-6?
Switch 2 and 3 - Are these really needed? Why not just have them come on with the panel. They don't draw much power at all.
Switch 4, 5, & 6 - Are you just running the power through the switch without a relay per light? That will work for the most simple method as long the light on each switch does not pull more than 20 amps.

Your about to get confused and So will I. lol.

 

[Hondasxs]

Recommend adding in This - https://amzn.to/2RnxMOT with this - https://amzn.to/2PuH3HG
or this will do the same thing as both of those https://amzn.to/2qlGH7Y

 

[BlueBadger05]

Thanks for the response....

Fuse system I think will need to be a Blue Sea Systems fuse panel, yes pulling power from the second battery. Is this the most economical solution?

Switch 1 is meant to switch the whole panel. Is a relay the option here? If so, any idea what size is needed?
Switch 2 to power the voltmeter I would like because I don't want to see it on all the time. Switch 3 isn't required but I didn't have anything else to fill up all 6 spaces on the switch panel.
Switch 4, 5 and 6 would just run each light. The large LED across the windshield already has a relay, the other two are small and don't require a relay.

Thanks!

 

[Hondasxs]

Ok... Thats great.
I think you only need the stinger relay to power the fuse panel. Here - https://amzn.to/2PuH3HG

 

[Hondasxs]

Recap.
Switch 1 will pull power from the second battery and trigger the stinger relay. Thus powering the fuse box sending power to the panel.
Switch 4 will control a relay for the front LED. This relay should get main power from the fuse box.
Switch 5 and 6 will get power from the fuse box and directly power small LED's. If low amp draws, you can share a fuse and jump the feed wires at the panel.

That's the easy part. Figuring out the switch lighting was always the hardest part for me.

 

[BlueBadger05]

The Stinger relay is on its way.

So basically the fuse block is powered from the 2nd battery using 6 gauge wire. Is it recommended to do a 100 amp fuse there or is that overkill? I feel like I have seen it both ways.

From the fuse block I will use each circuit for each switch/accessory. Power from the fuse block to the switch, then from the switch to the accessory. What do you mean by jump the feed wires at the panel?

As far as the switch lighting goes, wouldn't I just run the switch lighting in parallel from the "power" switch? Or would I pull power from the stinger relay for each switch light?

 

[Hondasxs]

Fuse close to battery would be good. 100 amps is too much. Stinger is only rated for 80 and that's too much too.

What I mean by jumping. Is one wire from the fuse block. To switch 5. Then jump that same powerline to switch 6 so you dont have to worry about another fuse. Like how you will jump the negative for the switch lights. But maybe you want separate fuses.

As for switch lighting. I would want them to light up with panel ON. So parallel would work. It's just the wireing that confuses me. So many jumpers. Lol.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Jaked2694]

Hello, I just got a 2018 P1000 and am going to run the dual battery. For the aux battery do where do you run the ground for the batter? From aux battery negative to primary negative ? Or do you run the aux negative to the frame? Also putting in a stinger and blue sea fuse block.

 

[GlockMeister]

Hello, I just got a 2018 P1000 and am going to run the dual battery. For the aux battery do where do you run the ground for the batter? From aux battery negative to primary negative ? Or do you run the aux negative to the frame? Also putting in a stinger and blue sea fuse block.

My 2nd battery is grounded to the frame. Some run a cable back to the stock engine grounding point.

 

[JTW]

You can’t have too much ground so frame and motor is ideal.

 

[Jaked2694]

Okay. So there is already a KFI 4500 winch installed how would I get that to run of the aux battery

 

[RedFred1]

Remove the positive hot wire running from your winch relay to the old battery at the battery end and move it to the new battery positive. Ground the new battery to the old battery ground at the frame. Be sure the winch relay does not have any daisy chained connections to other devices only a single hot lead. If it does see where they go and connect them back to the old battery positive. Your winch should have it's own ground lead running to the frame or common ground.

FredD

 

[ToddACimer]

Make the reverse switch a switched ground so you can have the reverse lights come on with the transmission position or anytime via switch.

This harness would be perfect
Honda Pioneer 1000 Auto Backup/Reverse Light Harness with Work Light Trigger.

 

[RedFred1]

Make the reverse switch a switched ground so you can have the reverse lights come on with the transmission position or anytime via switch.

This harness would be perfect
Honda Pioneer 1000 Auto Backup/Reverse Light Harness with Work Light Trigger.

That uses the same connection point as my back up alarm...

FredD

 

[ToddACimer]

That uses the same connection point as my back up alarm...

FredD

I bet @Hondasxs could make you a splitter that was plug and play for lights on one side and alarm on a secondary pig tail.

 

[Hondasxs]

I bet @Hondasxs could make you a splitter that was plug and play for lights on one side and alarm on a secondary pig tail.

Yes.
I actually have a one already made for this exact reason.
I need to add it to the club stores sometime. But until then shoot me a message if interested.
Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[JTW]

Yes.
I actually have a one already made for this exact reason.
I need to add it to the club stores sometime. But until then shoot me a message if interested.
Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I think I’m going to do this for my backup lights..

 

[ScottfromIN]

So is there a wiring diagram to go with all this?

 

[JTW]

So is there a wiring diagram to go with all this?

Can you insert a plug into a socket?