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P1000 Wiring diagram

Scoop

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yeah i did not use the actual fuse tap because then you cant close the fuse box lid, i just used a blue snap lock tap and tapped into the white/blackline wire under the fuse box, much easier.... and will save you 20-30 bucks....
I try to avoid tapping unless absolutely necessary. Cut strands of wire, limited contact with the wire, oxidation and corrosion due to cutting through the cover, etc.. The key-on power harness took me less than a minute to install.
 
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rb384997

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I try to avoid tapping unless absolutely necessary. Cut strands of wire, limited contact with the wire, oxidation and corrosion due to cutting through the cover, etc.. The key-on power harness took me less than a minute to install.
right but no cutting or taping with a blue snap lock tap..... took less then a minute and saved the harness fee... for maybe 5cents

Snap lock
 
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rb384997

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I guess it is what you are comfortable with, anything can fail, I feel comfortable with the tap, I don't think the cost out weights the advantage on this one... but I hear your point....
 
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bumperm

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right but no cutting or taping with a blue snap lock tap..... took less then a minute and saved the harness fee... for maybe 5cents

View attachment 313500
Sorry. Most good shops and every decent electronics guy I know (and I'm a decent electronics guy), would never, ever use this type of tap. They are fraught with problems . . . the only thing good about them is they are quick, cheap, and save labor costs. When faced with these things, someone else has installed, proper action is to yank them and do it right!

As the guillotine blade is forced down to cut into the insulation of the wires, the blade will often cut wire strands on each side of its slot, thus weakening the wire and reducing its ampacity. In higher current applications, this can cause heat build up due to the increased contact point resistance and will exacerbate corrosion, especially if the area is subjected to moisture or high humidity. Not good, bad juju!

Here's an example of a decent soldered tap splice. The only improvement I'd suggest is to use self vulcanizing rubber tape instead of common electrical tape:

splice
 
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rb384997

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well this ignition is on a relay, so amps and heat would not be a problem...
 
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rb384997

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well this ignition is on a relay, so amps and heat would not be a problem...
I believe in this scenario, it is in a position where it cannot move and not directly exposed to elements, used correctly these work well, would i use them on the exterior or exposed section of the vehicle? certain not. I just don't agree the harness is the best method for this scenario... If there was more length under the fuse box to work with then yeah would agree and have used some different connectors... for me this was the best tool and not worried about it at all.....

1642189796583
 
Scoop

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As the guillotine blade is forced down to cut into the insulation of the wires, the blade will often cut wire strands on each side of its slot, thus weakening the wire and reducing its ampacity. In higher current applications, this can cause heat build up due to the increased contact point resistance and will exacerbate corrosion, especially if the area is subjected to moisture or high humidity. Not good, bad juju!
In other words:
Cut strands of wire, limited contact with the wire, oxidation and corrosion due to cutting through the cover, etc..
🤣 🤣
 
Scoop

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I just don't agree the harness is the best method for this scenario...

The key-on harness creates absolutely 0% chance of cut strands of wire, limited contact with the wire, oxidation and corrosion relative to your factory harness/wiring. I can't say the same for a wire tap.
 
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rb384997

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you paid for peace of mind, and that was probably a wise decision, I too have the same peace of mind....
 
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bumperm

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Peace of mind, comes to mind. No wiring connections to fail, downhill power is exceptional. Comes with roll bar and roof. No CVC transmission belts to fail, excellent mileage, though somewhat hard on shoe soles.

1642194368917
 
StewB

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I used a Posi-tap on the wht/blk ACC fuse wire (at your red arrow) to a relay.
Sorry. Most good shops and every decent electronics guy I know (and I'm a decent electronics guy), would never, ever use this type of tap. They are fraught with problems . . . the only thing good about them is they are quick, cheap, and save labor costs. When faced with these things, someone else has installed, proper action is to yank them and do it right!

As the guillotine blade is forced down to cut into the insulation of the wires, the blade will often cut wire strands on each side of its slot, thus weakening the wire and reducing its ampacity. In higher current applications, this can cause heat build up due to the increased contact point resistance and will exacerbate corrosion, especially if the area is subjected to moisture or high humidity. Not good, bad juju!

Here's an example of a decent soldered tap splice. The only improvement I'd suggest is to use self vulcanizing rubber tape instead of common electrical tape:

splice
I used to solder splice and then heat shrink and wrap tape. A lot of work. In the past I used the guillotine style, which cuts wire, so I stopped using those.
The true Posi-tap pokes a needle hole in the insulation and the pin runs between the wire strands. I've used a lot of them and have not had a failure. They're not for high draw loads, but seem to work well to power a relay.
1642196835084
 
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StewB

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A deep thought from JHandey: Honda Corp. could realize that its UTV customers pretty much always add accessories requiring other power sources. Us commoners are not asking Honda Corp. to accommodate everything, just one easy power take off?
Is that too much?
 
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